who here has been surfing this week?

Dude if you want to surf the best time of the year you need to pony up the $200-$300 for a decent quality 5/4.

44 can be brisk but it's not "cold" with the right equipment.

Errr, I mean, yes you're right. Winter surfing sucks. Quit now.

 

lol, I have a 5-4 pantagonia r4, shatt is toasty! just want to be a little more free! quit surfing? neva~

 

then get yer azz out there, no excuses. Those R4's are warm but damn they get heavy when they're wet, fkn Patagucci's

 

Well you wouldn't wear one dry would you?

 

please recommend one! your right, when I pop up it feel like I'm glued to the board! nice warm suite but I'm already 215lb and I'm having trouble getting up! not fat and can do plenty of pushups, feels like I'm tied to the board! any help, please! peace.

 

pretty solid today down in buxton at the lighthouse. got one good barrel but kind of tough most of the day because of the wind. some crazy ones this morning but damn was it hard to be in the spot

 

Actually surfed the Juno Pier today on the incoming push. Stiff offshores, solid chest to head high north swell, crowded but drifty so not really crowded. Blue water. 100 yard lefts and 50 yard rights south of the pier. I got some of both. The north side, guys were dropping into right hand tubes, short punchy very contested peak. Fun was had by all. Took the roundnosed NA again, too many sets, lots of duckdiving, got worn out after an hour and a half. That'll teach me - next time to bring the shortboard on a pumping day. Life is goode!

 

Yep. Muscle memory leads to unpassable plateaus. Change your workouts regularly for muscle confusion and blast through those plateaus.

My personal observation is that Patagucci's and Xcel DryLock are heavy suits and aren't as flexible as their competitors, but they are very warm and dry. Want flexibility? Go for just about any other "name" brand in the industry.

 

thanks rocque!

 

por nada, hermano.

 

I hate to say it, but ditch the patagucci. I have an r3, and my 5.5/4 ripcurl flash bomb is soooo much more flexible that it's obnoxious. I really noticed a huge difference the first time I wore my 5/4 this season, how much easier it was to get out of after i finished surfing. Patagonia is great and all with their sustainability and insane warranty, but you sacrifice flexibility big time (or should I say bigly).

 

is this a wetsuite threadde?

 

Well that de-escalated quickly.

Did not get out yesterday afternoon, was hoping for a lot more this morning than I got. May have just been the tide... went to my usual high tide spot but it was inconsistent knee to thigh high and breaking way too close to the beach. Possibly due to sandbar reconfiguration, or possibly just due to lack of swell, not sure. Got a few 2-3 second rides on the longboard, the last of which ended abruptly when my fin dug into the sand. Mostly just sat there freezing my a$$ off and thinking about trying to move somewhere warm and with better waves (san diego springs to mind immediately... lot of potential job options for me there). Weird that I was so cold, air temp was in the high 30s, but it felt like the coldest session of the year so far. Fingers and toes completely numb even in relatively new 5mm gloves and 7mm boots. I'm assuming I would've been a lot warmer if I was actually paddling and riding waves. Oh well.

Any jersey folks get out yesterday afternoon?

 

Beautiful sunrise this morning that didn't last long. The skies were clear at first light but as the sun rose the fog rolled in and it was so thick visibility went to only about 5-10 feet.

I almost didn't go this morning given the forecast of 1-2 and it being high tide, usually a recipe for flatness, but I checked the buoy and it was reading 3ft @ 13 seconds, so I trusted it and went out. The tide was full and it was deep but with the medium - long period swell it was breaking outside in the waist to chest range and pretty consistently too. Kinda funny too because the other spot just up the road wasn't breaking at all.

I lucked out and had a blast on the LB. The wind was calm with a light offshore breeze keeping the walls open for a nice long ride until it got deep again on the inside and fizzled out. A couple were bigger than the rest and I was able to link together some turns, cut back, nose ride, etc.

The past 3 mornings I have been fortunate enough to be up close to a dolphin and her little baby. They like to play in the surf and hang out nearby. At one point there were only 3-5 feet from me. I always feel like i'm safe from sharks when they are around, IDK why, maybe too many episodes of Flipper as a young lad. Either way, great morning.

 

Anybody else get out this morning?

 

was at work and had no chance of getting out but was watching the NY cams and it looked like yesterday afternoon was a good day to get wet. Bombs away.

 

Went out Tuesday with a friend going through a rough time. Last week he found out his wife was cheating on him. So, they split, he moved out and put all his stuff in a storage unit. Then proceded to lose the key to said unit. He needed some vitamin sea to help clear his mind and gather his thoughts. He also needed a surfboard and other gear as that was all trapped in his currently unaccessable storage unit. I was happy to help.

We hit the beach hopeful for the north swell. Well, it wasn't the 3-4 feet that SwellInfo overcalled once againe. But there were clean long liners in the knee to thigh high range with some occasional slightly larger sets. We surfed most of the day on a few different sand bars. Got plenty of fun rides while enjoying the challenge of making the most of the small surf. Another dude I know joined us after a while wishing he had brought his longboard instead. One more foot would have made these waves quite suite.

Despite the less than epic surf it was a beautiful day. Air was chilly with the offshore winds. The crystal clear turquoise water was the coldest it has been so far. Still trunked it though. My friend got some much needed time in the water to sort things out in his head. Yeah, it was a pretty good day.

 

Dang, glad you were able to help your friend out, sounds like he needed it. That's what friends are for!

 

Lending a board and sharing some waves was the least I could do He is a much younger 'kid' who is super nice and full of surf stoke. Actually met him via this phorumme. While it sucks that this happened to him, I think it's better that it occured sooner rather than later before things got more complex with children, etc. He now can regroup and move on with his life. And surf more often!

 

Indeed. Hope it didn't happen to someone I've met / know. Either way, I wish him the best, that's a tough pill to swallow, I honestly don't know how I'd handle it, probably not very well.