who here has been surfing this week?

Just got back from Costa. Surfed everyday but one. Lots of swell however most of the beachbreaks on the central/southern were closing out. Caught super fun left point break almost everyday. Size ranged from waist high to a couple feet overhead. Brought a board with the left point in mind. Worked fantastic. Amazing what several days in a row can do for your surfing. First day I surfed like crap and thought I should quit. By day 3 my ability was firing on all cylinders. I am by no means a ripper but at 44 I competed for waves with every other ahole out there. Had a great time. No pics of surfing (not really possible) but will try to post wave pics later.

 

That is a great feeling isn't it! Well said!

 

No. To my shame I live only 10 minutes from Wrightsville Bch. Life has gotten in the way. Business, kids, other endeavors. Every time I surf I think damn, why don't I do this more? Sadly it is hard to get stoked with our overcrowded, over rated surf that we get most of the time here. I am motivated not to be left by the wayside at this point and am getting some of that stoke back as a result. I also buckled down and got new neoprene so my plan is to surf winters again now. It had been a long time for that as well.

 

I really thought we would be skunked today, what with the ankle to knee high forecast. But we got luckier. For about 90 minutes at sunrise, There were knee to thigh high very clean orderly waves coming through, and I swore I saw a guy get one hip high wave. The water was so clear, you could see the shells on the bottom. It was a gorgeous silvery turquoise color. Zero wind, 74F air, 72F water.

There was a snake moving on the bottom too, right under my board, in about 5 or so feet of water. It was a crazy sight-- light brown, about 5" diameter, moving slowly.

We hoped to see the rocket launch from our boards, but it was too cloudy at our beach.

It was so beautiful, it wouldn't have mattered if it was unrideable. But, six of us had the place to ourselves and we all scored some small but fun rides. My last was the best, a nice floaty left, that was longer than anticipated. It will hold until next time, for sure.

 

Flat here as usual.....

 

Scored it unexpectedly good this morning. Swell forecast was really marginal - 2 feet short period south swell - but on the plus side low tide incoming mid morning, air temps in the 60s, and light offshore wind.

Screw it...went anyway. Checked one spot and it was really small but clean and was tempted to paddle out. Checked another spot and was surprised to find skate-park a-frames that just kept getting better and better as the tide came in. Shot this pic before paddling out....I LOVE small rippable waves like this. Perfect for the mini simmons quad.

 

Son of a B!!! I decided to go to Cape and ride the bike because it was supposed to be so small. Cape was really small but lining up nice. Glad ya scored, looks fun!

 

I got the stoke engines straight up revving tonight. Buddy and I went out in S. MoCo. 70 degree air, thigh to very occasional stomach sets. We both had our logs, my 9'6" pride and his brand spanking new 9'8" bing levitator. It was a trip. Hardly anyone else out and we were catching 75 yard rights to the beach. Making sections we shouldn't have. Magic carpet rides. We caught so many rides together sharing waves. One of the best days I've had in a long time. Completely stoked.

Sometimes all you need to re-up the stoke is a little extra foam and that did it. Yewwww.

 

I was lucky enough to get a little too. I looked at the three sites and all three were in agreement. Magic was even showing 2-3 for Jersey. Triangulation is the key! Was definately worth it. Face got a little sunburnt.

 

Thanks for making Monday slightly more bearable, Mitchell. Great pic

 

You sound like an idiot. Oh, wait.....you are an idiot........
Were I the moderators, you would be gone. Permanently.
But, it is a free world, so carry on, idiot......

 

No winds meant pure, unadulterated waist high lines yesterday for the panhandle. Great for longboarding, only my second time surfing in 2017. Hoping for some shortboardable waves soon.

 

That's good you guys got some! All my life I have lived in FL and never surfed the Panhandle. It always looks good on storm systems but can't seem to justify making that drive.

 

Got Out Saturday and Sunday @ CB... Saturday was undercalled which is nice... was supposed to be completely flat but knee to waist sets and pretty clean. Sunday some fun clean waves too, but left most of my skills at the bar Saturday night...

 

I see you remain in the "oral-fecal" stage of human development.
Does your mommie know you are posting here??

 

Wanted to add. I had an encounter with a shark. It was kind of sad... Saw something in the water about 30 yards outside. Sun was reflecting off it and it was swimming erratically. (Once had a sea turtle pop up next to me that was caught in a net that had to be rescued.)
Anyway got my nerve up and paddled out to it. I was the only one in the water and my wife wasn't even on the beach.
It was a three, maybe four foot Spinner shark that was in it's death throws. Really couldn't do anything but look. It was kind of surreal...
Made me sad.

 

True story - i had to fly to Mobile, Alabama for work one time about 20 years ago and had a Sunday afternoon to kill. Got a rental car, drove to Pensacola and chest high lefts were peeling down the west side of the huge concrete pier. The third surf shop i went to had a rental board - it was a sunny Sunday afternoon, about 95 degrees outside, and there were good waves...real good waves. Scored it!

 

Dude that's some good luck when talking about the Gulf!

 

prefer posts like this, when they predict crap surf and turns out fun...only time I generally post. Missed this little opportunity, had to work all day.

 

My oldest daughter was at the launch. She's had driven down from Huntsville, AL for it. She's works for U of A on a joint climate study project with NASA. Anyway, back to the topic at hand...
Got out during lunch today off Dam Neck. 2-3', a bit bumpy but ride-able. Onshore breeze. Hope to get out at least a couple more times ths week. Sure beats eating in the lunch room or working out at the base gym. I'm a lucky man.