who here has been surfing this week?

endless surf in peru. boardshorts and overhewad waves go togeter well

 

What an unexpected treat. The forecast was red for today. On the way down it was lightly raining. As I passed by the first beach on A1A, do my eyes deceive me, or is the ocean glassy?! I kept driving to my favorite spot. I overheard a guy say, "Shoulder high and glassy", to which his pal perked up and ran down to the beach.

Sure enough, it was shoulder high and nearly glassy for an hour. And the topper was a rainbow that appeared when the rain let up. I was pretty pleased with myself paddling out to the lineup-- a long enough interval that it wasn't a beating getting out there. This lasted about 60-90 minutes, before the tide got lower and the waves got junkier.

I scored a few very fun and long rides. On days like today, I also love the front row seat to watch some great surfing.

Will go again tomorrow.

 

2.5 hours of sunny nuggets on the Delmarva My face is crisp.

 

yep...forecast was pretty right...fun

 

I missed the low-to-incoming tide, which looked really good... but got it approaching high late afternoon. Total Free Ride session on the fish in slopey shoulder high peaks. Mostly short rides, but a few lined up for some open face fun.

Musta been hella good somewhere else, 'cause there wasn't another dude in sight.

 

I think a lot of ppl missed this swell... maybe it was under forecast? at dawn it looked small - but after work it was chest hi!

Driving home from work- I cruised thru Belmar, maybe 10 guys total- spread out through Belmar!

Once I got to my normal spot to check it- I was surprised to see chest high waves peeling forever all the way to the beach. Even the waves that looked like closeouts.

So went home and got in before dark... of coarse the wind switched south right at sunset... but still plenty of perfect waves... long long long rides ... and it was high tide! One ride seemed like it was almost from Jetty to jetty!

Love these south swells! I'm stoked!

 

Right on. I always love good quality with decent size over large days with poor quality. I also checked it in the morning and it looked really soft and small. I then checked it at lunch time an hour after low and it was perfect lines going forever. Easy drop-ins, plenty of face for carving and non-stop round house cutbacks.

 

^^ This x 1000. Got out after work for almost an hour yesterday and had my most fun session in recent memory. Was out right around/just after high tide, so it was a little soft on the inside but still easy to catch a ton of waves and the shape and form was absolutely flawless. Chest high, maybe shoulder on a couple sets, mellow takeoffs, and perfectly peeling waves (though tricky to make it to the inside on some as it got deep and the power backed off pretty quick). Finally got one all the way to the sand on my last wave, probably the funnest wave I've ridden in months, and had a handful of other good rides as well. So stoked right now. It's tempting to think about how epic it would've been with another foot or two and a lower tide, but there's really no reason whatsoever to complain about that session. Not super optimistic about anything being left by this afternoon, but hoping to get the longboard out if I can... even knee high waves would be fine with the residual stoke I've got from yesterday.

 

It was pretty damn good where I was, but there was no one in sight when I paddled out, one other guy came out about halfway through the session, and I saw one other surfer a couple hundred yards south of me off a different jetty. That's it. I love winter surfing on days like yesterday (though there are certainly other days where we pay our dues).

 

That was definitely the case on the Delmarva. First off the swell hadn't really shown up early. Also, there was a late morning low tide and around here the last couple hours of an outgoing tide and dead low tide really sucks the energy of of an already marginal swell. Then the tide started in around noon, and it really picked up.

I think most forecasting sites don't even begin to include the effects of outgoing vs. incoming tides on surf heights, and around here (especially near inlets, baymouths, or big jetties) the three hours between an hour before low and two hours after low can often turn knee - thigh high dribble into stomach- high lined up rippable.

 

a bit of chop than the day before, but still rideable waist to chest hi's. got in with some buds yesterday right after hi tide. a pretty decent drift unless you took lefts, but my instincts and board was favoring rights. had to pump it like a jack rabbit to catch the next set after the initial break in the wave, but several of those got you mini-tube sessions if you can limbo. brought out a beater 6'6" boart that didn't take to it well. so on came the 7'6" funboart "Cpt. America" that took to them pretty well. Decent couple sessions on Folly the past couple days, but not as clean as the guys mentioned above ^^^^^

 

Clean and calm this morning. Lingering swell hanging around the waist high range on the sets which were inconsistent on the high outgoing tide but there were some nice ones coming in every so often, just had to be in the right spot at the right time. Perfect for the LB, long glassy soft lines.

 

On initial paddle out at 7:05, one of the dudes commented, "Whoa. Its bigger out here than I thought. I brought the wrong board". At that point shoulder highs were coming through regularly. It was glassy and warm today....The waves very quickly tamped down to thigh to waist highs. We caught it at its best.

I got my wave of the month...It felt like about waist high and the drop was very fun! I was able to pop up fast ,and then to keep in a deep knee bend taking the drop ,and gently pump up and down a couple of times to absorb the drop energy, something I haven't been able to do for the past 5 months.... so, It felt great.

And I am still on that wave.

 

Dude I know that feeling. Sometimes when I catch a really good ride, the feeling stays with me for days after, and I keep replaying it in my head. Like how glassy smooth the curl was, how it broke perfectly, the snap of the board on a rebound.

Had a memorable head-high left yesterday that I think's gonna stay with me a few weeks.

 

Fantastic longboard waves in Monmouth County yesterday afternoon. Only like knee to thigh high, but absolutely perfect form. Long rides, big enough to make some turns up and down the face. Need to make a note of the exact angle of the swell direction, like to the degree, these past few days, and if it's ever forecast to happen again, pre-emptively take off of work. Fairly serious about this. Was surfing at dead high tide, sitting 10-15 yards from the beach, next to one of the shortest jetties around, and it was lining up like a point break, just peeling for like 100 yards. So stoked after these past two days. Not another surfer in sight of course the entire hour and half I was out. Which isn't surprising I guess, since like surfline said it was 1-2 and maybe rideable on the small wave gear

 

looks like it could be a good 10 day weather pattern for surf...tho cold. I put away the 5/4 2 weeks ago...may have to pull it back out.

 

30's right, above.... perfect little liners yesterday and a nice day, too.

SSE at 8sec were the stats for Wednesday... SSE at around 7sec yesterday.

But there's no garuntee it will always be that good. A lot depends on what's been going on prior to the swell.... which determines how the sandbars are set up. The only way to really tell is... you guessed it... propre sande reconne.

 

I thought forecast was spot on wednesday, ...sure, they were calling for more sizeable surf in am and falling in the afternoon wednesday, but its all relative..agree, gotta do the recon thing sometimes, but i always end up surfing the same place in town or at my other spot...the recon thing is a must when Iam off the pavement and driving on the sand, especially after storms...can find some very cool little points sometimes where it just fires down the line.

 

Small E swell in the water today but tide was too deep at dawn, but should be rideable on the LB at low tide. Maybe i'll cut out early today, we'll see.

 

I found a window of light N / NNE wind early afternoon right at low tide that provided some fun waist high waves for about 90 minutes before wind picked up out of the NE and ruined it. It was so warm I skinned it. Beautiful day overall. LB was the call, there was a dude or two on SB's that weren't catching anything. A whole group of dudes and chicks with SB's all scattered on the sand, none of them surfing. Funny to see them all showing off their boarts for each other, while not using them.