who here has been surfing this week?

Got some really great waves in SENC yesterday evening. Super stoked even though i missed the golden hours while I was at work. Hope you guys got some!

 

Did not paddle out yesterday, some combination of being too much of a pu$$y and actually knowing my limits (it was definitely a good bit bigger and gnarlier than anything I've proficiently surfed at this point). Checked near my house in central Monmouth around 5 and it still looked completely unmanageable, ended up just going for a leisurely drive down the coast with wife and daughter looking for waves/surfers (without board/wetsuite). Saw a couple people out in southern moco, and by 6-630 down there it looked somewhat more manageable, but still pretty confident I'd have just gotten my ass kicked out there. On the plus side, after the past two winters (the first ones that I've ever really diligently surfed all season) I'm completely comfortable now in solidly head high to maybe slightly overhead hollow waves, which is at least a step in the right direction. Not sure if I'll ever have the balls to paddle out in conditions like yesterday afternoon though, and also not sure why that bothers me so much.

A bit of redemption this morning though, got to work at 730, only two other people in the office and one of them told me they'd just heard we had a two-hour delayed opening (presumably because of people commuting from points north and west?). I actually stood there talking for another 30 seconds or so before the lightbulb went off... "Holy sh!t! I'm going surfing!" and literally ran out of the building mid conversation, drove home to get the wetsuite on, and got about 35-40 min in FUN chest to head high waves with good shape and plenty of power. Hoping the wind doesn't beat it down too much during the day. Out of work at 4 and planning to head straight to the beach and hopefully surf till dark. Already dreading putting on the soaking wet suite that's gonna be in my car all day. It'll be worth it though.

 

Quote Originally Posted by stinkbug View Post
What still photo doesn't capture is speed of these waves. So fast. No time to stall. As soon as you are in its time to think about getting out. Pig dog would swallow you whole. Freigh my training

 

Ho lee chit, that has some meat to it! Did you get out this morning (Wednesday), it looked like it might have been fun.

 

I had to work yesterday so I had this morning off. Mid tide. COLD as f@ck. All to myself. Twas no vegetarian swell. This was meat and potatoes. I think yesterday would have been a bit much for an old feller like me. Anything over chest high today seemed to be closing out where I was anyways. Caught some nice ones. Now I'm at work trying to get feeling back in my toes and my face looks like a tomato. Wouldn't trade it for anything.

 

I had work to do all morning and finally headed out yesterday behind the Blockade Runner at Wrightsville Beach. By late afternoon it had dropped to maybe waist to chest-high but was glassy, kind of windy not as racy as earlier. I am still struggling with trying to get to form I only surfed one wave and I'm completely blaming it on my board. I am almost 50 riding a 6-2 by 19 3/8 by 2 and 3/8 CJ Hobgood fishy. I went to my shaper recently and he he says that is just not enough board for me at my 170 pounds plus a wetsuit. I know it is partially that and partially me just trying to get my legs back, but damn I'm jonesin for new board. Surfing right now it's frustrating for me but I know one day it will click again so I'm just waiting for that day. Funny part is the one day I surfed a short board last year I ripped! Go figure.

 

this is a shot of rob Kelly last night.and this aint exaggerated lol

I was checkin the cams yesterday like every 20 minutes.around 3 30 it started cleaning up.i drove down south for an hour and by the time I got there it was on.im still in awe over yesterday.we don't get swells like this often.and it only lasted a few hours.theres still some waves today but from shoveling,paddling,and working today lol I'm barely walking.

yesterday was the kind of waves ppl die in,no joke.i got a few videos on my phone got to find out how to upload them.im sure surfline and esm are going to do a photo gallery.theres days when ny gets the epic swell,delaware,obx will have it and jersey would be chest high bs.yesterday was jerseys day.i feel proud lol to be from jersey after yesterday,definitly brought the stoke up since I havnt surfed in probably a month and a half

 

I've been in this rut before. The one thing that got me completely stoked again was logging. Grab a log or a decently sized mid length. You'll catch more and ride them longer. Stoke will come againe.

 

Got an evening session in tonight. Solid stomach to chest with infrequent shoulder sets in the mix. Pulled into two micro barrels. Got smacked around a TON though. They were sucking fast with the low tide. What a good week thus far. Saturday might be in for the works too.

 

[video]http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/featured-clips/exclusive-new-jersey-nuking_146061[/video]

Check it. NJ yesterday.

 

I should have headed south to Ocean county on Tuesday, judging by pics I've seen and posts on here. Not to mention my basturd friend, who surfed down there and didn't call me because he thought I was working.

Monmouth County was a little too choppy that day. Not a total bust, but with those sized waves, more fun could have been had with better conditions. Instead of checking out maybe Seaside Park or Lavallette and taking the 20-25 minute ride down 35, I opted to go further north!

 

The last wave by Rob Kelly (I think) was holy sheit fooking mental. Can't believe he came out of that beast!!

 

Wow, should have went south. Insane and no step-offs here.

 

Yeah....I'm not even trying to pretend to compete with that. I prob would have drowned.
I know when to watch and when to charge!

 

pitted

 

So what's the consensus from the other thread? .......it was ski assisted. The wave and barrel are obviously just as good as the jersey vid, but it was with assistance? Should we start classifying each wave as "ethical" or "non-ethical" barrels?

 

Barrels are cool no matter how you get them however paddling in is way cooler than not paddling in. Also I boogie so don't listen to anything I think

 

I"m not comparing the two waves and I don't even know if this one was ski assisted. I"m just saying it's more difficult to paddle into a beast like that than to get towed in.

 

your probably right, i wasn't there so i don't know the set up prior to the shot. For me a backside pig dog has always been a survival tool when the drop and bottom turn is so steep you feel like your knees are gonna buckle and thats what I was inferring there. Drag ass and hold on.

Then again ive never gotten hucked into a wave by a ski, so this wave is probably way outta my league anyway.

 

Harvey Cedars?