who here has been surfing this week?

Decent Day at the North Jetty in Venice Fl. Kinda choppy and mushy, but i made do with what i had. Decided to take the foamy out after a couple sessions on the short board. Im not gonna lie, thing is fun a hell to ride in these conditions no doubt. Still learning(novice), so using the extra Thickness/length to capitalize on wave count definitely seems to help. [video=youtube;BB3j-2nrCks]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BB3j-2nrCks[/video]

 

Hellz yeah Grommet, you look like you're progressing nicely with a nice carving style.

Your surfing skill and especially your video editing skills are way better than that Ho Stevie kook. I would like to give you some constructive criticism of you don't mind:

1) Point the Hero Cam towards the wave, instead of at yourself and
2) Get a skinny skanky stripper Edward Snowden girlfriend just like Ho Stevie, and immediately post pix of her doing yoga in a bikini.

Get on it now, and don't dawdle.

 

Thanks, I'll definitely switch up the view for next session. Skinny skanky hoes were everywhere tonight with a wedding rehearsal right on the beach lol.didnt snap any pics. So, sorry on that note...

 

LOL KR!!!!

HOS isnt all that bad, but that was funny

 

Ugh dude, HOS seems like a nice kid and all but he's a straight up kook.

But that Snowden throwdown of his looks like she could use a good pretzeling

 

Not that I'm aware of though it's possible we've been in the water together. Betty keeps threatening to introduce me to you but we never seem to all be there at the same time. I'll be heading to the secret inlet more often in the coming months as the ocean becomes even flatter down here than this schitty winter has been. Gotta surf, ya know.

 

Rhode Island was going off today.

But it was just a cruel, hard day out there. 30's air, 30's water, winds 30-40, and pouring rain/ice/snow the whole session. There was just nothing to help keep you warm.

Waves were about chest-shoulder high, but the wind was howling side-offshore, putting a really good chop on the water and tons of spray on takeoff. For just a few minutes, like 10, the winds backed off and the rain stopped, the water started to glass off, and it gave you a glimpse of just how epic it could have been if the weather would have backed off some. But then it just started unloading again, and did the rest of the session.

Had a local reef to myself for about an hour and a half. I was surfing the right, which I have only done once, and it was soooo nice to surf a reef frontside for a change. But it is just hella-shallow, and I missed about the first four waves because I couldn't push myself over the ledge knowing those rocks were right there, you know? But finally I decided I was either going to surf, or move to the left where I know where the shallow spots are, and hucked over a ledge and got a really nice right. Got a few more, then did the exact thing I didn't want to do and got planted, but still didn't hit the reef, so I think I either got lucky, or got pitched into a hole.

Anyway, I kept doing the "one more wave" thing for an hour and a half and got myself really, really cold inside. The right also stopped working as well, but then every surfer in Rhode Island showed up and sat on the left, and since I had my part of the reef to myself I stayed put even though the left was getting really good.

Got some good waves, and I guess I had fun, but it was a true gut-check session.

 

I did the long drive to get there before sunrise and man was it a beautiful way to start the day.

I was waiting for my crew so we could celebrate a birthday. Mistake. The best waves were early on. By time we all hit the water it was crowded and I just couldn't find my groove. Next time, I will paddle out and then come in when the party begins.

But it sure felt good to be in the warm ocean, way warmer than yesterday. Something surfaced near me with a big round snout and I convinced myself it was just a manatee. As if. I got a meh ride. Oh well. Some days I look like I sorta know what I am doing. Other days I look like it's my first time out. Pretty funny actually!

Their is always tomorrow...

The bubbly and the food and sharing of friendship before surfing was simply wonderful. The advantage of getting old is that each birthday is so wonderful and memorable. Time dilates as you savor the moment with buddies.

 

I don't know how you guys are doing 6 hour sessions in this weather. I'm a tough guy but 3 hours in this weather was brutal.

 

Warmer in our parts. High 40s low 50s air temp and 42 degree water. Couldn't have done that if it were 30s. No way. Tires me out quick.

 

Wasn't feeling great and nursing a sore knee so I didn't surf today but I grabbed the camera and shot some pics at 5th street in Ocean City.

 

About ten minutes after sunrise, I crested the"hill" of the boardwalk to take in a stunning scene. There was a light fog on the water, causing unworldly eerie silvery lighting everywhere and especially on the water. The ocean was glassy with these thigh to chest high sets rolling through. It was very sacred looking, especially since it was only about 8 locals on the scene. I had two impulses: run out there and paddle out in the gorgeousness, versus watch and be transfixed by it. I chose the latter for about 5 minutes, until the no see ums tipped my hand, and Paddle out I did.

That was the second thing of beauty. It was way too warm in the water for a 3/2mm. So glad I had the foresight to bring trunks and a 1.5mm jacket. Younger dudes could've done without the jacket.

The immediate thing upon paddling out was how deceptive the water looked from the beach. It looked pretty easy and gentle. Not so. There was plenty of energy in the incoming whitewater while paddling out through it. And, on the first ride, I got down the face of it, it was steep, somehow scooted in front of it as it closed out behind me somehow. And I couldn't believe how much force was in the wash closing in on me. It was enough that I couldn't see anything, just hoped nothing was in front of me. Thats a new experience for me. That was a good time to get out and strip off the 3/2mm.

The long boarders were falling off waves a lot, likely due to it being low tide and closing out. The short boarders and skilled SUPers were really having fun with it. One of my crew got hurt in the shallow water, she should be okay. But its a sobering reminder about how low tide can be tricky at times.

As Kai would say, the stoke tank is filled. Am guessing it got a lot better after I left, by mid tide.

 

^^^ Good stuff as always, Betty. I saw the fog on the cam and jealously watched the very clean conditions and relative uncrowdedness. It's ridiculously flat here now. I might head up Tuesday or Wednesday.

I hope the other Betty will be OK. What happened to her? Small waves and shallow water is when most surf injuries occur. My wife broke her arm a few weeks ago in just that scenario. We weren't even intending to spend any time at the beach that day but I talked her into a quick visit since she hadn't been in quite some time. We walked a while and then decided to go for a swim. The wind picked up and started to form some small chop so I grabbed my foamie from the car and we were goofing around in the barely surfable waves. She took a tumble in six inches of water and landed squarely on her arm with much pain. She'll be in a cast for a few more weeks.

 

Yesterday was huge here. Today looked kinda like your pictures but maybe a touch smaller. Chest high with a few plus sets and these perfect little barrels. Got in a solid 3+ hour sesh and took a board to the back of my head right behind the ear on a close out. Got a terrible headache and big ol lump. Managed to keep surfing though. As the tide come up slightly there was more open face, so i stopped going for barrels and started looking for the peelers. It was tough, really had to pick the right one and be in the right spot. But if you were you wound be rewarded with a fast long peeling wave just begging for those fast down the line speed snaps. Overt and over and over.

 

Delmarva didnt get the ideal winds this morning, but when the sets came there was usually one with a clean face. I was surprised by the size....and that it was as ridable as it was considering there was sideshore wind the whole time.

 

cj surf just needs to admit he rarely surfs as he is a very big kook

only cj surf could end up ON A JETTY during a surf contest

pics are floating somewhere in the internet

 

Oh no, Val, tell her I will let the crew know in my weekly newsletter to them.

Yes it was shallow. She is a fairly new surfer but an accomplished water woman. She took a wave in , low tide, and didn't want to get off. It got shallow and she got pitched forward, fell on her forehead. Not good, but no snapped neck.

The cam likely didn't see some of the wonderfulness of the early morning waves. Most of us were north of the boardwalk.

Am tied upTues or Wednesday, or I would meet up

 

Beautiful shots buoys.

Bassmon: Mom says don't surf if you have a headache with a head injury. You get a second head hit the same day, you could end up dead.

 

Fun surf this weekend. I hope you all got out. I surfed for 12+ hours all over delmarva, had a driftwood fire on the beach, fished after dark and drank alot of beer. Freaking stoked!

 

Lost my whole post dammit. Anyway, today at first beach. Nice day but that water was absolutely frigid, I'll bet not over 38.