who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    What's happening?

    I was out there Bass. Haven't seen our stretch light up like that for a while. Beat Stella IMO. Traveled into town for an easier paddle out. It was a challenging surf. 2ft over easy with really no taper. The wind kept sweeping you outside then you would paddle too far in leading to late steep drops. You made a few but got smoked on a bunch and it hurt. No going over the top and out, just a doggy door exit and a suit flush. Collect yourself and sprint back out before the next set. They were spaced out just enough you could get back out without a duck dive. Sometimes you just got far enough out to take a few on the head. That was kind of a drag.

    And hey a bomb is a bomb. They don't come in one size. A cherry bomb is small but it's still a bomb right? Don't care how long I've been surfing I'm still going to froth over waist to chest death bombs that explode into shallow water. The kind that shift your hood sideways when you get clobbered. So much fun.

    Who else surfed this weekend?
  2. Toonces

    Toonces Well-Known Member

    Apr 25, 2016
    Tomorrow the weather is supposed to be crap, but there should be some size. I'm seriously thinking about taking a sponge out at the reef and just goofing off. I had a lot more fun that I expected on the fish in those little 2' waves on Sunday, and while the conditions are going to be victory at sea, it still might be fun on the belly.

    Or not.

    Might be a nice change of pace...

  3. BassMon2

    BassMon2 Well-Known Member

    Jan 27, 2015
    I didn't get out for stella but it totally beat it from what i saw. I hadn't seen waves like that in a long time. Glad to see you got out there.

    And i truly apologize for being pulled into the exact thing you didn't want going on in this thread. I know what this thread and the group are about. Wanted to apologize to you specifically. Hope to see you out in the water soon! It's been awhile
  4. surfRIwinter

    surfRIwinter Member

    Jan 31, 2017
    Second beach this weekend was hit with a big swell but with around 25-30 knot straight offshores, so whenever I paddled for a wave the wind and spray would hit me in the face and blind me.
  5. Panhandler

    Panhandler Well-Known Member

    Oct 27, 2015
    Feel bad for anyone on the gulf that didn't get out this morning. Very fun and clean lines, no wet suite. Only me and one other at one of the go-to spots. On the drive into work, there were two other spots that had about 20 people. Always cracks me up, sure there are a couple spots that work only slightly better, but its all beach break and I hate being in a crowd
  6. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    What's up guys? I've been surfing my ass off lately, 5 out of the last 6 days since my last post on the 29th, all have been very fun. It's been so consistent the past few weeks. So many days in the chest - head range, some sets pushing overhead, and a couple smaller days in the waist to chest but mostly clean - perfect conditions each session with today probably being the least clean of all but it was still pretty decent honestly.

    I have been riding the Flashback Fish mostly but have taken the M-80 out some too. Something about that Fish that I love, it's got tons of mileage but rides like brand new.

    I love this time of year when the water is warm enough to trunk it but it's just cool enough to still be refreshing. Calm winds to light offshore and occasionally a light onshore breeze is what we've been gifted with many mornings / evenings.

    The wild life is becoming more active which is always fun and keeps things interesting. The sunrises are picture perfect. The whole vibe makes me think of PR as it's usually about this time of year that we make the trip down, but not this year, possibly for Christmas, we started talking about that possibility last night.
  7. yankee

    yankee Well-Known Member

    Sep 26, 2008
    This ^^ is good stoke :cool:
  8. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Welcome back dude! Let's hear about your trip when you get a chance.
  9. yankee

    yankee Well-Known Member

    Sep 26, 2008
    Surfed about 12 sessions since getting here last Thursday. Heading back north manana.

    It's been fun. HH to well OH on growler sets. As always, Guiones doesn't hold size too well. You're better off playing the growler shuffle game, waiting for the medium sized HH waves that hold up nice & clean.

    About 6 really great sessions, 3 lousy & 3 avg. Mid-tide is best; high is really fat & wide, most guys missing their attempts. Best time of day has been first light, around 0515. Bus pulls up around 730-8. Mid-day also good if you're ok with frying your scalp.

    Wind has been offshore early but always rotates onshore @ 11am-ish. Afternoons have been blown out, knocked down closeout walls of whitewater. Segua time.

    Had a great time, worked on full 'S' carving turns on 9'2 rental. Was just too tired to pack boarts, threw gear in bag & uber'd to DCA last week. Didn't want anything shorter than longboart, due to knee. And, glory be, knee held up great, pain-free. Had terrific lefts & rights, high wave count with new (for me) paddling techniques, just a solid surf trek all 'n all.

    Hot as hades, dusty. Rain expected to commence on Sunday. Massive amount of building going on in Guiones. Didn't hear the howlers as much as usual. Loss of habitat is staggering. Water shortages now, too. And don't drink the water here in February & March. There's so many gringo septic fields now, that the water table is contaminated with feces. You will become ill. The human virus, on its game yet again. A Blue Zone is no mas.
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2017
  10. yankee

    yankee Well-Known Member

    Sep 26, 2008
    Oh, and one other thing: SI fucast has been spot-on for northern CR. Wind in particular. Whereas, MSW has been totally wankin' it when it comes to the afternoon wind scenario. Surfline, somewhere in the middle.
  11. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Yeeeew! Glad the knee held up for you and you got lots of tasty waves.
  12. yankee

    yankee Well-Known Member

    Sep 26, 2008
    Gracias DPSUP! Watching the right coast fucast -- travel bag is packed.
  13. kidde rocque

    kidde rocque Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2016
    Welcome back Yank, glad you enjoyed your trip.
  14. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Nothing worth the trip probably for at least a week out. Hopefully that changes but coming off the last run I'm expecting a lull and then another swell.
  15. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    Glad you scored bro! Awesome the knee is holding up well, and smart to go with a LB to get your chops back.
  16. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    It's been busy here I finally got out today in chest high north swell with stiff onshore southeasterlies wonking it up making it bouncy sectiony but fun was had, went to the fabled Juno Pier, 10 people out but lots of drift and random peaks so crowd was zero factor, it was fun watching my buddy, the Pied Piper, give lessons to two wahines on springbreak, and a mini grom just tearing up the reform, and making everyone else look slow and clumsy in comparison. Like mini JJF. Busting airs, all two and half foot of him - it was awesome. So I wore myself out paddling, duckdiving, and catching randomme chunks of goodness. I feel much mo bettah now.
  17. DosXX

    DosXX Well-Known Member

    Mar 2, 2013
    I noticed that Gulf Shores was doing better than here (VA Bch); although today we had 3-4, albeit windy. Wife and I will be heading that way next week. What's the water temp down there, 72?
    Driving to Huntsville, AL on Fri to visit daughter, then down for a couple days near the Gulf. Have enjoyed that area since stationed in P'cola during early 80s.
  18. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
  19. DosXX

    DosXX Well-Known Member

    Mar 2, 2013
    Glad it worked out for you, Yank, with the knee and all.
  20. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    I almost didn't paddle out this morning but i'm glad I did. When I pulled up and looked at it, it appeared deep and barely breaking. I waited for 30 seconds - a minute and more of the same. As I started walking back I saw some lines off in the distance. I kept walking back toward the vehicle and as I looked over the wall I saw a set breaking perfectly across the bar in the waist / chest range! I had a little less than an hour so I hurried to grab my long boart and I paddled out right where I saw that set. I noticed a South - North drift and had to paddle to stay in position until the sets showed. I snagged a good 6-8 waves before having to run off to work. All long rides with turns, cutbacks, nose ride through flat spots and into the reform.

    Wave of the morning was the last wave where I caught it right at the peak and got to my feet for a swooping bottom turn setting up a top turn which I ended up turning into a cutback the other direction and milked it for another 20 yards or so as far as I could until it petered out and I paddled in the last few feet to get out and hit the shower. As I was walking off the fog was setting in and it was grey. But when I was surfing the sky was blue and the sun was orange with some red, f'ing awesome.
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2017