who here has been surfing this week?

Glad to see you and the kids scoring and getting stoked CJ

 

I love watching the pelicans. The pelis are the prehistoric masters of surfing, so trippy watching them glide the surf in perfect formation with such elegance and style.

 

It rained 3 inches overnight so surfing an inlet was not a smart option this morning due to the runnoff. I went up to the Juno Pier, just a few guys out on the northside. There were six to seven foot peaks all bouncy with the onshores, and lots of duckdiving and paddling was required. I snagged a few nice peaks, and got one really nice classic frontside (right) bottom turn back up the face and threw some nice spray on the way back down, that felt nice, I haven't done a power carve in awhile the surf has been meh. Then I got tired and got a long one all the way from the outside to the beach and went in, watching other guys killing it and wishing I was in better shape. Need to surf more gnarly days, that's the best way to get back into shape. Quit work, leave the family, and just surf.

Maybe not.

 

Started in cocoa beach Sunday waves were 3' at most, started working our way south hitting second light, RC's which was pretty clean but kinda sketchy with tide going out and the reef being 2' deep at shore break. Headed to Sebastian inlet from RC's where i managed to find some steep 5' breaks. Managed to catch some pretty nice waves along with the fair share of getting smashed from the drop offs. Overall not the best day, but at least i was surfing...

 

A few pics from our trip to Hatteras last week.

 

Surfed one day with whales cruising the lineup. Got a few incredible pictures from shore of them. They came within 30 yards of the guys in the lineup at times and were probably in water as little as 10 feet deep.

 

Nice pics guys! That looks awesome with the whales!

I really hate this time of year when it's still cool and rainy and just plain ugh, especially no waves or victory at sea garbage. It would be better if it were at least warmer, even if no surf to be had. I could ride my wave runner or at least enjoy being outdoors. It's these cool late April days (especially when they carry over well into May like they did last year) that make me realize I'd never wanna retire here in Jersey, if I do ever retire completely. I keep thinking about my friend who spends his mid April's-mid September's in Woodland Park Colorado, where it's regularly still only 42 degrees for high's and has 3 days of possible snow this week. When I think of that, I don't feel so bad. But after 7 months of being in the cold and traveling to some very colder climates on business, I'm ready for some warmer days. Consistently warmer days too. Not 70's one week, then 50's the next.

Have a business trip to Florida at the end of the week and weekend, likely no surf time for me. I'm gonna check all forecasts and if they look promising, I just might see if I can find something to surf with my buddy for a day.

 

Stunning photos CJ. And that whale picture, I am speechless! Thanks for sharing it.

 

Great morning. first one in. clean sw traces. chest hi. i grabbed the daily driver, but think i should of went with a shorty. had great sloppy seconds on one of the first snagged. feel free to share you story. got another one late, turnt into a steep angel. much to my surprise i managed to catch it. then at the end a wallcrasher cuz nobody makes me bleed my own blood. for the fello carolina bouys, rock a 3/2 cuz the jellies rolled in early

 

Gloomy skies this afternoon, but no wind, glassy conditions and there were lefts. Really needed the offshores that never came.

 

Not to shabby today. Offshore and overcast this morning.

 

Got a couple at the old watering hole

 

Got out for an hour during lunch today. Waist high and semi glassy. It had been 3 weeks due to multiple reasons, out of town, and a bad knee. Water temps 10 degrees warmer than 3 weeks ago. Nice to shed some rubber: no hood, no gloves.

 

Some really nice photos, CJ. That whale shot was really something!

 

fun session in Monmouth yesterday afternoon. bigger than it looked from shore, a bit disorganized but lots of long fast rides to be had. definitely overhead on the sets.

 

Iam so ready to get wet...Freakn BACK..been fishing instead. BACK finally feels good...May make a go of it today.

 

got roped in for an evening session w some amigos out at the Washout. chop for shore, but there were some chest hi pockets to get some in. nothing great, but there were rides to be had

 

It was sooo good yesterday up here in NoMoCo late afternoon/early evening. Not offshore, not super clean, but chunky and super fun... with light crowds. One spot in particular was absolutely a blast, with nobody out.

 

Got out yesterday afternoon, 3 to 5, clean and fun!

 

and the hits keep on coming, the yard was chest to a lil overhead, consistent and only 8 people spread out over 300 yards...good fkn times, great wind, just beautiful Polynesian perfection