who here has been surfing this week?

Never mind pictures of you surfing--just upload pictures of your GF, please.
We like naked pictures best!!

 

I caught a few mushy waves it felt really good to get wet and make a few sections. It was waist to stomach and bouncy. The first wave I took off on I went face first over the nose, and it was at a very popular spot with no one out due to the poor conditions. Then I remembered how to surf. Life is goode

 

Some waves here today. Went up and shot for a little bit.

 

Got out twice this week in two entirely different ways. Took a family vacation to Disney World and for the sake of my own sanity I booked a surf lesson at Typhoon Lagoon Monday morning. I lucked out a bit because there were only six of us in total (usually there's 12) and I was the only one who had ever ridden a wave. They spend about 20 minutes doing introductions and teaching the group to pop up, then it's in the water. The pool produces two waves. First they pump a chest high wave then there's a knee high wave behind it. Nobody else wanted the chest high wave so I had it to myself most of the time even though they put two people on each wave. If you're not renting the pool for yourself, you're only allowed use the foamies they provide but there is an 8 ft board that's sufficiently maneuverable to get a couple turns in. Is the wave pool kookery? Maybe, but it was a good time. You start paddling when you hear the whoosh and then it's an easy wave to catch, not steep at all but it did move faster than I expected. The rides are short but you can ride the wave down the line from one side of the pool to the other. I got to catch 16-20 perfectly formed waves in two hours which was a welcome break from lines, heat and children losing their minds.
Got out tonight in some surprisingly clean waste high waves in South Jersey. Dolphins swimming in the surf. It was a nice relaxed session. Water is warming up. Surfed till the sun went down. Nice way to end the week.

 

Onshore winds have brought us some wind choppe. Met my buddy S and we were later joined by another guy, D. Waves were waist to chest short period peaks. Better than we expected and the wind wasn't too bad. Was able to get some fun drops and a longer ride could be had by linking some sections together but you had to work at it.

It's that time of year when the winds and currents blow everything toward shore. The water and beach had tons of sargassum. It will terminate your ride quickly if you hit a big mat and it's like a boat anchor when your leg rope gets loaded up with a bunch of it. There was other crap floating around and at one point a plastic 55 gallon drum comes floating by. My friend D declares we need to get this navigation hazard out of the water and rid the ocean of so much plastic as well. The three of us endeavoured to get this thing to shore. One of the bungs is gone and the drum is full of water and therefore heavy as fvck. All the beach goers are watching us wondering WTF we're doing as we wrestle it in.

We finally get to the beach and roll it it up past the water line and position the open bung to drain it. I'm watching the water drain out when I see the head of a small fish pop out the hole but it's too big to fit through. I grabbed it and helped it squeeze out. Shortly another smaller one comes out the hole on its own. After a while an even smaller one pops out. Success! Three fish saved and the line up is once againe clear of dangerous debris. D states that he's taking it home to make a rain barrel out of.

We went back out for a little while but were pretty spent by then. Tomorrow promises more and bigger power choppe action. I'd much prefer some clean swell but you take what you can get. Summer doldrums will be here soon.

Never know what you'll find floating around here or washed up. Two weeks ago while we were surfing the same spot some other dude that was snorkeling recovered an abandoned scuba tank from the bottom. I've found fishing poles, money, GoPros and tons of other crap but still no square grouper.

Life is goode.
I feel sorry for people that don't surf.
Or drag stuff home from the ocean.

 

SKJC and Val: Good stuff there. I enjoyed reading your stories.

 

I went out with some friends on Thursday and Friday this week.

The waves were Great Thursday, waist to chest high clean long interval delights. But, I just didn't seem to be able to do much with them. I couldn't seem to get my legs to move, my paddling strength was really off the mark. It was still fun because I was with friends and, as usual, the ocean felt terrific even if all I was doing was getting washed over by the Whitewater.

But,I came home and thought, "maybe my surfing waves days are over. Maybe this is the beginning of having to just lie on the board letting the whitewater push me in, and staying stoked about being in the ocean without surfing anything. "

Well, Friday was just what the doctor ordered. The waves were still great even if they were a tad smaller. After a few minutes I rode a wonderful waist high left. The water was clean, the ocean was warm and it was sunny and glorious out., and, my friend had just arrived at the beach and saw the whole thing. She was jumping up-and-down screaming at my Victory. It felt great. Its so nice that my buds know what I am up against and recognize these victories as monumental.

Not long after, I picked out a thigh high peeler. As I was paddling for it, I felt the wave was going to roll under me. Knowing that this was my last chance at a wave for the day, and not able to generate more paddle power, I popped up and immediately placed my front front foot on the nose. That did the trick and helped push me down the face of the wave to enjoy a long left.

The rest of the session I contented myself with lying on my board and letting the gentle white water wash over me and push me around. I felt like I was in paradise.

 

Val- good on you brother. As surfers we are responsible to keep our playground free of debris and clean. Good stuff! Happy you didn't just leave it on the beach either

Kan- sweet pictures! How's that Roberts treating you?

Betty- That day may come one day but from what i read in your posts, you'll be riding waves standing up for awhile. Glad you got a good one. Quality over quantity.


Today was fun here. Slightly smaller than yesterday but still waist/stomach high on the bigger sets. Much cleaner and better shape than yesterday. With the low tide they had a nice steep wall to play with. Drift made staying in position a little difficult but it kept most of the other guys out off the main peak. Caught a bunch of fun ones on the mini just enjoying the speed and throwing in a top turn here or there. Had one wave where i hit the end section with so much speed..... iv never had been thrown towards the beach with so much force before on a wave that small. Just lost it trying to ride out but that's all good. Sesh ended when i hit a weird chop and tweaked my upper thigh/hip. But i had to catch one more good one after that. Nothing stretching won't take care off.

Fun weekend of surf. Doesn't look like much during the upcoming week. Heading to RI next weekend so hopefully I'll be able to grab some waves there also

 

Was this in Belmar? The land of the drop-ins.

 

Loving it man. Dialing her in nicely.

Stoked for your trip up N. hopefully you luck out. Nothing like exploring new spots. Keep us updated!

 

Town delivered, light north wind had some spots working that dont normally function due to exposure during trades....300 yard paddle to a wave that is 6-8 turns long, touch overhead easy peasy but had guts

yes please!!!
also, light crowd, 5-10 people whole time, 3-4 waves sets, rights and lefts and it was cloudy, so no need sunscreen
Summer isn't all bad, despite the 70 minute drive to go surf in trunks

 

Augh i wish the souths hit us like they do you guys!

 

Finally got after a few months dealing with lingering bronchitis

2nd Beach was fun early turned to crap as forecasted. Didn't have to bring out a knife to regulate the lineup.

 

Fun photos. What is that curved black crescent like line I am seeing Around the wave in the last shot? It makes the wave look like some kind of shiny pipe. The line looks drawn in?

 

Thanks Betty!

That's just a drain. Definitely adds some character to the shot.

 

Good stuff! Sometimes you get the bear and sometimes it gets you> Glad you got some.

 

By the time I got to the beach this afternoon the tide had dropped a bit and it was breaking out past the jetty and reforming on the midbreak maybe head high with lots of whitewater on the takeoff. I spent lots of time duckdiving and dodging random chunks of closeouts. The one good one was a good one, I had to paddle into a breaking wave and roll in on my belly, then stand up as the wave opened up to a fast walled up head high right, dodging a guy paddling back out, and made a nice peak section, made it down the line, got a floater into another inside section, then a mini floater to the shore. It made all the paddling through all the seaweed worth it.

 

Skunked in Nica @ El Transito......missed 3, count 'em 3 spring swells here on the right coast. Words fail.

 

Yesterday was all the best local beachbreak boys out together for the first time this year, 3 proteges, one adoptive and one late to the party all stoked with this old coot sighting and offshore and off work! A-WOO!!! It was small but nottoo small 'cause it was warm air, 4-3/boots/gloves/no hood and pumping for the size. Age 17-54 all stoked to be out together, even if i am now a somewhat cripple. Go For It!

 

good bit of chop carried into the wknd at folly, supposed to drop off tomorrow morning for a small window of clean i'd presume. Got into the spirit on Sat early morning, turned to be a whole day or turn n burn at the beach. took the LB out in the morning for some occ shoulder n then the 7'2" fisch for the rest of the day, which was mostly waist with semi chop. ysterday was a bit choppier but some short end rides. other than a nasty floater, the waves were forgetful but fun at the time