Exactly. There are a lot of people talking a big game and talking about owning the peak. Many don't own jack ****. Having fun is great but don't claim that your owning the peak and tearing a wave apart unless you can back it up.
HO BRAH YOU TINK YOU ONE Reepa huh? lol Nice shot of Jockos...looks like a typical day, never getting really clean and perfect but when it does and at that medium size, it is the shiz!
not ripping not owning but definitely surfing jockos is a nightmare when big, the rip and stuff, ive been out at 8 ft plus where the rip keeps pulling u to lanis/hultins and into the zone and the channel closes out on some, its heavy and not quite worth the squeeze to this guy. Ive done it and gotten good ones, but the lickens:sick one ratio was skewed this day had almost no wind and no rip. had a 7'6 and got a bunch, few guys out in between 'shifts'
I was mess'n. I agree with the rip. The picture looks like one of those days. One thing about that place is you try not to be too far out and a little deep to get the goods and out of nowhere they start stacking up! I have gotten washed in by sets there. I caught one of my most memorable waves there on a 6'8" in a rising swell (I would typically ride a 7'2" out there). Fickle fo sho!
late this afternoon. wind and tide cooperating. friend of mine taking advantage of the little window of gold after i picked the wrong spot and surfed sh!t waves earlier.
[video=youtube;kZhUj24Tvoc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZhUj24Tvoc&feature=youtu.be[/video] one of the many benefits of having the girlfriend in town is getting surf videos of the day to day. one of the benefits of having a cool girlfriend is that she doesnt mind sitting on the beach or painting in the car for a few hours when the wind chills out. this one is way heavier then it looks and full of rocks on the bottom. That little lip dodge at the end got me motivated
I've been waxing for the last 3 days in preparation for later today. Certainly looks like a great day is on tap.
Looks heavy enough, Trev. Probably plenty of water moving around out there. Cool pics, Thankfulman. You guys have good eyes; I wouldn't have been able to call that Jockos from the picture. I never surfed Jockos, but I spent a lot of time at Hultins. A few times, though, it got really, really good in that stretch between Jockos and Hultins. There was always a good current moving through there, so it was hard to keep position, but man I caught some fun waves in that spot. It gets awfully shallow on the inside, though...it's deceptive because Hultins is so deep, but you get in that in between spot and there are definitely some pieces of reef to avoid.
Awesome pics, Mitchell. I'm not sure where you found the offshore winds. Yesterday ended up being pretty epic for me here in RI. The winds were just onshore and killing it, but I was bored so I checked a local reef near my house. I got there and it was victory at sea. Three guys were sitting way out. I watched for about 20 minutes and they weren't getting crap. But on the inside, the waves were reforming and just peeling along the reef right up to the beach; it was like the surf was so big that it wasn't breaking right outside, but the inside reform was just firing about waist-chest. But with the wind...it was hard to tell if it was really any good. It's hard to explain, but there was just so much whitewater and chop on everything.... Anyway, the fog started to roll in, so I had decided to bag it. I'm walking back to my car, and just as I get to the car the sun starts to peak out. Well, WTF, I already have my stuff here, and I might as well get wet and see if that wave is any good. Suit up, and just as I get to the water's edge the sun comes completely out and the ocean goes from gray to blue. I paddle out, and as soon as I get to where I wanted to line up a set comes in and it's just a screamer all the way to the beach. Holy crap! So I ended up surfing 2.5 hours until I simply couldn't paddle anymore. It just got better with the wind backing off nicely and the sun was out almost the whole time. As I got to my car post-sesh the clouds rolled back in, and as I started driving back home it started to rain. Go me!
Hey, y'all. We actually got some last Sunday here in Galveston. Had onshores blowin straight in here for about a week. Victory at Sea and 6-8 foot. They had to put the lifeguard towers up on the sidewalk. Then the cold front came in. 20 - 30 mph OFFSHORES. It was like 7 ft @ 9 sec. I ain't seen sh** like that here in a couple years. The sand is still goobered up from the beach replenishment, but it was still SWEET. Lotta pelicans out there surfin head high clean ones. They'd go down the line, turn around and come back. VERY close to me. F**kin amazin. The most fun, while not as big as the outside, was the inside where it was TRUE barrells. Not that teaser stuff. Goin frontside on a waist - chest high one, seein about 20 - 30 feet of it start pitchin out in front of ya, knowin ain't no way in HAIL yer makin it, grab the board, haul ass, and wait for the barrell roll. Literally. Inverted, board passin over me, guide it over behind me, then BOOM! Gurgle. Pop up outa the water. Smile. Repeat. Had a blast. My arms ain't been that tired in a very long time.
Hi Mr. Barry. Life just happens sometimes, I reckon. Gettin closer to 60 every day. 59 this summer. Tryna keep hangin. Keep them dang kids offa my lawn, ok?
Wow nice waves! I'm longing for the day of not having to wear boots and gloves... hopefully in another week or so
Surfed a lot today and yesterday. One wave in particular was really fun. I was paddling back out as a big set was threatening to crash on my head. Spun around, took two strokes and made the late drop. Bottom turned and immediately hit the lip; almost threw myself off balance whipping the board around so fast. Landed it and hit the lip again with a ton of speed. Stoked!
Still in boots, gloves, hood here, but the 4/3 is very comfortable now. Still a bit chilly to ditch the hood completely.
I surfed without a hood for about an hour today in NJ when the sun was out. Wasnt too bad, but after an ill timed paddle out which left me duck diving larger set I pulled it back on. Was pretty fun in Northern Ocean County today. Zero crowds at this spot. Just me and a friend.