who here has been surfing this week?

I agree man...I have a fat/wide/thick 6'4" Glenn Minami that works so good on that wave. I'm goofy too.

 

^ Man alive I can't believe you'd throw yourself into that crowd. I checked the cams on Sunday and Rockies looked pretty fun with like 6 guys on it.

I dunno man, I value my sanity to much to throw myself into a crowd like that. The North Shore is a big place, surely somewhere else was firing.

Anyway, paddled out at the same reef on Sunday, but lightning did not strike twice. There were some big sets coming through way on the outside, but it just wasn't holding its shape well. Something just wasn't right. I had the place to myself for about two hours, but it was a pretty forgettable session. Second Beach might have been the call. The winds were killing the reef I was at so I imagine Second Beach was trashed too, but it was probably still rideable.

Today I brought my gear since I was in Newport, but the clouds, wind and cold kept me out of the water. Second Beach is getting that nasty red seaweed again, and I as just kind of over it. Pathetic, I know, but I just wasn't into it.

 

^^^^ just got back from Newport today. Ended up not bringing a board since the wind forecast looked not great. Checked out Newports prized big wave spot on Sunday. It had some good size but just wasn't doing it. A few guys in the water. It made me feel better about not bringing a board. I sat on the cliff and watched for about 45 min. Didn't see anyone catch anything really worthwhile that whole time. Kinda funny that i thought lack of swell would keep me out of the water leading up to this weekend getaway. Turns out there was plenty of swell, strong onshores were the problem.

 

Thanks for the report. You didn't check Second Beach by any chance, did you?

 

Nah. I was actually thinking about it. But since i didn't have a board i figured there's no point. I saw that one small window of surf that you scored on sat. Onshores backed off just a bit.... seems like that was the best opportunity all weekend. Good on you for getting it.

Luckily i returned home to some doable waves and looks like a promising week although small

 

Surfed yesterday in MA and it was surprisingly cold due to the strong offshore wind which never died down. My eyes are stinging today from getting so much spray in them yesterday. Other people were killing it and I was not. Such is life.

Don't care so much about the boots but I am looking forward to ditching the mittens, hopefully soon.

 

^^^^ A few sessions back i caught this wonderful wave. The toe of my boot got folded over and i flaild in spectacular fashion. Never had that happen, and boots don't normally bother me. But man after that... I'm ready to shed some rubber

 

my preferred sissy wave on NS is puaena point.

 

you are regular foot?

and toonces, we had a crew who wanted to do a beach day and some folks didnt want a challenging wave. if I had my pick, I would have done Gators or MJ's on Sunday, maybe backyards if I was on my A game. sunset was like 8 foot and packed tho

today the yard was fkn fire, 4 foot with some plus and just as prefect as a wave can be

if the surf today was a girl, she would look like this

 

nope - goofy. another one of my favs, which is more of a novelty, is the wave inside the harbor at haleiwa right across from that restaurant (can't remember the name, was called jamisons). I used to visit each year as I have family on NS but life has gotten in the way thus haven't been in 3 yrs. end up surfing those goofy spots when surf is huge.

 

Minami. Love minami

 

Well that was certainly a fun day. Waist high with a few chest high sets. Decided to hit up a few spots in Northern Ocean County that I haven't been to in quite a while. Still a little too cold (air temp) out, hate that I still need gloves.

Looks like a little bit smaller for Tuesday, but still decent conditions. I'll be having at it again!

 

Track Porn...

 

Today wasn't as good as advertised haha. I figured it would be waist high sets at least, but it was knee-waist at best and a lot of flatness. I somehow surfed for a combined 5 hours at some spots that I haven't frequented in quite some time. It was mostly used as a bullsh!tting session with my best friend. Really could have used longbort's today, as it was some real miniscule slappers. We were about a half hour from home and we weren't really in the mood to drive all the way back and grab some bigger borts. Hope for a longbort session today, but will probably ride bikes. Bicycle and street bike perhaps?

 

^ That's a lot of water time, man. I'm consistent almost to the minute at getting out at two hours, unless it is really, really good. Most days, though, I'm surfing, surfing, and then start to think, "I think I'm ready to catch one in. How long have I been out?" and I'll check my watch and it will be exactly two hours since I paddled out.

Five hours is insane, like the best waves I've ever been in maybe.

 

Also, I never double session during winter, or when it's cold. Once I'm out, I'm out for the day. Too hard to get back warm, and get motivated to put on a cold, wet, wetsuite.

 

Truth. We used to have a windbreak and a little habachi going and would warm up, refuel and hit it for another hour or so, now when I get out I'm done. Two hours in anything other than long period perfection is a pain in the ass. Literally. Usually it gets too hot to shred hard for over a couple hours down here, then it's time to hydrate and eat and puff and eat some more.....

 

Due to my job, which sometimes takes 80 hours a week from September through April, I'm unable to surf consistently. 4 days of surfing a month during that time period is a good month for me. Sometimes we'll get some rideable days around Christmas and that's pretty sweet. So when I've got almost nothing but time between the end of April and the second or third week in September, I use it to get all the water time I can. Sometimes during the busy work months, I've been guilty of surfing well past sunset, which is mostly because of lack of time. I figure I gotta make up for all the lost time and even at this point of the year, I gotta take what I can get. Pretty soon the water will be filling up with 50 people just sitting there and floating around on their bort's in ankle high surf (sounds like me on Tuesday haha!).

So I'm in the ''Take what I can get'' stage. I'm not too big on getting out of the water and getting back in with a suite on during those cold days. Though I'll do it if I feel like I picked the wrong spot and can take a short drive to scout out another. Back when I worked year round for myself but made my own hours and could surf anytime I want, I would plan my schedule out around the surf and I was content with 2 hours or average to decent days. I'm really waiting for the air temp to get warm (like above 60 or 62?) so I can take my wave runner out on the water. That's my go-to flat day activity.

 

If it's good, I'll just keep surfing for 3-5 hours until I can no longer lift my arms, or abject starvation sets in. I've seen entire line-up changes come and go during marathon sessions. First it's packed, then you have a peak to yourself, then it's packed again as a fresh crew comes out. Then afterwards there is nothing better than a post surf session feed, followed by sex (if the gods have truly blessed you), or nap on the couch.

 

Anyone who can surf 5 hours straight is a beast, I hit the wall at 3.5-4 hours max, hunger makes me come in. I can eat, swat, and then surf again, most I surfed in a day was 8 hours over 3 sessions

Typical going big day for me is a 3-3.5 hour session with another 3 hour session, 6 hours a day is a full day for me, and I can keep that up for like 2 weeks on a surf vacation, but not in my regular life, got fkn chores n sh1t.


LAst night I surfed Vland chest to head hi and only 10 people! surfed till the sun was below the horizon, I milked the last bit of swell out of this season, might be one or two pulses before it totally stops.

Had 3 standout waves, one was a left that was 2 turns, just in perfect spots on a little 5'10 quad, just really cranked it and it felt nice.

the other two were rights, one where I was right in the mouth, but no tube and the other, my last wave just did the v land thing, perfect shape and 3 shwacks and rode it in then home for din din

Its been DOH in June before, so we will see if THAT happens again, unlikely, but one can hope

also,

AAADDDRRRIIIIAAAAANNNNNNNNNNNNNN

get your sh1t together and march northwest for a bit then head due west