who here has been surfing this week?

having 2 5-mils is still cheaper than snowboarding with a season pass

 

Exactly--I have 3 for each season.....

 

If I lived in Hawaii I'd never surf for 5 hours cause there's always tomorrow, but here, when it's pumping, you stuff yourself at the trough before they close it down for the next 3 months.

 

even when I was in jerz, id max at 3.5 hours in one sitting, but could surf 8 hours in a day if schedule/winds allowed it.

 

Even when I do surf for 5 hours, I do get out at one point to maybe take a drink or have a granola bar or something, and then I go back in. When I surfed 5 hours the other day, I didn't use a whole lot of energy since it was a meh day.

It's a good point, but I think I'd probably surf 5 hours a day as much as I could, until I got bored with it or was so beat up that I needed a rest.

I wouldn't wake up at 6:00 AM for waves though, not that I do that here in Jersey either! Living in Hawaii during the late Spring/Summer could become a reality for me soon enough, fingers crossed.

 

And it will be closing soon. One more swell coming up due to a late nor'easter. Then nada until perhaps Octobahh!!

 

Finally got a decent session in this morning after a few weeks of nada. 1st there was a long spell of onshore wind VAS conditions. Then I pulled a muscle in my lower back which sidelined me for a bit. Then I went on vacation to the OBX but timing was bad, so I was there between swells and only got one meh session in while there and came back to flatness here at home.

This morning was nothing more than knee - waist with a distant long period small swell out there breaking on the mid incoming tide at sunrise but it was clean and it was fun on the LB, at least until the tide killed it.

1st wave was a nice and lined up waist high slider, I took a couple paddles and I was in, got to my feet, started to make my turn a little too early, jerked it and fell.

2nd Wave was about knee high, I got to my feet and it fizzled quick.

3rd Wave was the largest of the morning and I picked it off early, got to my feet, this time I was more patient on my bottom turn. This allowed the wave to jack up some more and there was a nice wall to carve up and down a couple times, then I finished with a swooping bottom turn to kick out. It felt so good, and so does my back. The yoga / stretching I've been doing really helped.

The rest of the session was slow and I picked a couple more meh waves off before the tide completely shut it down and I paddled in. Water is so warm, clear, and inviting. Can't wait to get back in.

 

cape flatteras (obx) is hit or miss in the summer months

 

It was head / overhead and clean the day before I got there. The day I got there it was waist - chest, maybe bigger on sets but the strong S / SSW wind was tearing it apart and drifty as F so passed on it and decided to explore the island instead.

The next day the swell faded and it was flat for a couple days while the wind chilled a little, not completely, but some. Then the wind machine cranked back up and there was a little window and I got in but it wasn't all that.

The last morning I thought I would get a waist high clean wave when I woke up but the tide was wrong and it was nearly flat, decided to leave since check out was soon, later that morning it appeared the tided cooperated and made it rideable but I was already on the road and didn't' care at that point. Such is life. We had a great time despite it all. Lots of sand reconne for the next trip

 

Sorry to hear you were in between swells. Was it your first time to Hatteras? EC man...I guess you never know what your going to get when planning ahead of time.

 

Sh*t happens. There was one spot that I saw working in Buxton for that small window when it was working, I stopped off and saw it when I was heading back from breakfast (boart back at house) one morning and a small group of guys were getting some fun ones on high tide, chest to head ramps, semi clean. I head back to the house, grabbed my boart and elected to go out by where I was staying North of the pier but the S / SW angle wasn't working as good up there, so it wasn't as good. It was a weird S / SSW swell with S / SW winds. Wind was better by me, but swell angle was better South. I just dealt with it and chalked it up as a loss, but I learned a bit about the island.

 

If I recall, you stayed in Avon?

 

Yeah, we loved it.

 

We paddled out early Enjoying the refreshing 76F water, sunny 71F air. The waves were glassy as the wind was from the west at about 3 mph. Waves were mostly knee to thigh, but bigger sets came through.

Four of us buddies shared the bliss. It was crowded for a weekday, because it had been flat for a week, and groundswell waves were forecasted for today. There were some aggressive non local guys, maybe from South Florida, the concrete jungle.

After some failures, I got three fun rides. One was waist high, and it came with a nice drop. I was able to shift my weight back and forth from the back foot to the front and back again, preserving the ride nicely. ..

Another waist high I practiced a new skill. On a ride that is about to fail, I pop up, stomp on the board's nose, thereby pushing it down the face of the wave. It was a particularly sweet little victory

I guess summer season is here with the crowds and all.

 

Nice way to start the weekend. Them aggro non local varmints best watch out. You gots backup around here.

It was nice here today too. It's in my other (Beach Replenishment) tread. She wore me out good.

Nap time.

TGIF

 

Nearly flat this morning but it was glassy with weak long lines coming in. I went for a paddle on the LB since it was so nice out and sunrise was pretty sweet. In between paddling I caught a knee / thigh high slider every 20-30 minutes or so. Not much else going on, maybe a bump on Monday.

 

I "pulled a barry" this morning.
Small swell running (chest at best) but south wind blowing it to sh1tland, so back bed.

 

Buxton/Frisco gets more rideable albeit sometimes pretty small surf than other spots in Summer.

 

Had you not stayed where you did...if you stay in buxton at the motels and branch out from there you find the right spot right time. It pops up rideable all different hours of the day at all different spots.

 

^^^^beachbreak is right. I really like OBX for its multiple options depending on wind direction. Although when i head down its usually fall or winter and my uncle lives in KDH so i get to feed off his local knowledge