who here has been surfing this week?

This weekend blew, with the exception of Saturday. I don't even mean just surf, but it was rainy, cloudy and just unseasonably cool. It still is today. It felt more like Easter than Memorial Day, temperature wise. And Easter was close to 80 degrees this year, if I recall correctly. We even had 3 straight days of 90+ degree record breaking highs this month and the average high for this May was still a couple degrees cooler than the historical averages for the month of May.

I'm ready for some warmer temperatures, just for the non-surfing outdoor activities. At least the water is actually 58 degrees. It seems like it sometimes doesn't even get to 65 by mid June, even after an average temperature May and June.

 

I don't normally post these but since no ones mentioned it, the-mar was kind of awesome on Monday (yesterday). Looked like soupy **** from the beach but it was kind of predictable once you got in the water and there was almost no current. I went 4 blocks north of where all the NJ pros surf and had a nice peak to myself. There were medium/light onshore winds and short period 4 ft swell but there were definitely some head high sets rolling through. If you were patient and didn't mind a little chop you could catch some really fun ones. It was my first time feeling somewhat confident in somewhat sketchy conditions (i.e. low tide, head high+ sets, and short period poundings on the inside). Had my first serious backside bottom turn to mini backside hack on a chest high wave. Dropped in on the biggest wave of my life - felt like I was riding down a mega ramp. But the coolest part of the session was that it was just my buddy and I surfing until a huuuge dolphin caught a wave breaking about ten yards north of me. It looked like it was 12ft long but then again I just called 4ft short period swell head high. Maybe my perspective is a bit off.

The waves were so different than anything I've ever surfed in my short surfing career. They looked so mellow when they were breaking but once you caught it (or got pounded) they would just shoot you out like a cannon with sooo much power. I was going wayyy too fast on my puddle jumper. Several times my board just shot out from under my feet. I feel like a more high performance board would've helped... maybe I'll start looking at options for fall. I've heard great things about Brian Wynn...

I'm guess I'm "frothing" from that session. But then again I'm basically just a 30 year old grom at this point so take it with a grain of salt. I'm just glad the waters warm enough to avoid ice cream headaches. Fvck those things!

 

^^^Altogether, it sounds like a good sesh.

 

Got got out for an hour after work today. Water felt a little cooler than yesterday...definitely dirtier too. All sorts of flotsam, jetsam, and plant life of various origins. Like the ocean did a big back-flush or took a dump after the Memorial Day weekend festivities. Water-filled shoes, soggy clothing, even diapers were scattered about the beach. Fewer bodies in the water urinating and whatnot might've made temps cooler today.

 

sick dude! keep the stoke alive the journey is long no matter at which point in your life you embark

 

You hittin the races this weekend?

 

That is 100% stoke! We have all been out on a 4 foot day and have dropped into something that felt like 10 foot. Ha

 

Where in towne? Pretty remarkable story.

 

Wow....miracle....we have surf 2 days in a row and I got out again today.
Not the best surf, mind you, but good enough for fun and exercise......
And only a handful out way off in the distance. Works for me!

 

Flat.

 

you have walls in your house, right DSUP?

 

[video=youtube;C5rJ4g9EMUk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5rJ4g9EMUk[/video]

 

Fun in am...calm winds...may head out after dinner if winds lay back down

 

State....?

 

yes...did get a bit deep towards mid/late morning...going back out after a big old plate of spaghetti.

 

There was actually swell out there tonight, suprising. Just **** tide and winds. Can't complain, I got wet

 

Nugs tonight for sure. Even the wavestormer was getting his. Also...whats up with these superhero color schemes?

 

Not this weekend. My niece graduates from college so I have to go to Pittsburgh. Had to give my tickets to my buddy at work.

 

Got out this AM and after dinner. Two decent sessions at my local. Only one guy out besides me in the AM. No one but me and Mary Lee in the PM. I wasn't drunk enough to hit on her though. She is a heifer.
I'll post in the other thread regarding the other guys attire

 

Not the best o days, but glassy waist 2 chest+. wore a 2mm. Water felt like i coulda went with a SS full instead.