who here has been surfing this week?

More prophetic words were never uttered.

 

It sure has been a great month here in Monmouth/Northern Ocean County! Not every day or anything, but there seemed to be something at least rideable for almost half the days in May. It was a longboart day today. I really don't like to use the longbort but I have keep one around for days like today. My best friend strictly uses them. Days like today aren't the best, but they sure as fvck beat the flat days and the victory at sea days.

Da fuq was that shark bite?

 

I don't give a fvck what size it is. If it's 1 foot and you're out having fun, then it's a score.

 

o betty, it was so good to see you againe Saturday! I was surprised when I saw you turn and paddle for that wave like you did. It looked like you were aboot to pearl it but I think you shifted your weight to make the save. Surfer instinct. Very cool to meet your husband. You are fortunate to have each other. Suite.

It was quite nice the first part of the morning. Super clean knee to waist high bombing liners but you had to be patient. The overcast kept the heat and sun glare down. There was one particular wave I caught, a left, that I crouched down and almost managed to get covered up as Big Mike was hooting me on from the outside. Made my day.

I went back out after meeting with you but by then the wind had kicked in from the north and the tide had dropped killing most of the swell. Conditions just got worse from there. Not horrible but it changed enough. And eventually all the kids and swimmers clogged the inside. Not my best day at the secret inlet but I still had plenty of fun. And, yeah, there's a good community of surfers there, at least the early morning regulars.

Life is goode.
Back to flat for the foreseeable...

 

Same. It can always be "better"... that's a slippery slope. Just be happy with what you got and make the best of it.

 

getting a new stick today...need surf

 

What's the dims & shaper?

 

"Community of surfers" lmao

 

It takes a village. LOL Flat Flat Flat____________________________________________

 

Vernor...6'0x19x2.5

Surf sucked...rule 1, never take a new board in crap, especially if it's not meant for small crappy surf...ignored rule 1. Hate the board because of breaking rule 1 but that bad feeling faded...board is meant for better waves, not knee high crap. Had to give it a surf anyway. Time to sell some boards.

 

Finally a flat day on Sunday. Hoping for another fun day or at least few hours of surfing today though.

 

Anybody surf today?

 

No - - and the Fourume is the worse for it!

 

Double over ankle here

 

lol Summertime always brings out the best in us, don't it?

Same, maybe knee high at low but bout it.

 

Got some waist to chest high action yesterday. Usually overcrowded spot only had 3 heads on it. Took the brand new custome fish out for a test run. Works like a charm.....

 

Another Longbort day, looks like it's gonna be ****ty conditions here until at least Friday. It's been a great run and I've surfed almost every day of the last week, aside from Sunday. Got a good 3 hours in, but it was rainy and ****ty out.

Looks like another few cool and unseasonably cool days ahead here.

 

Surf is 8 ft here today as a summer nor'easter whips by. But 6 seconds period= chop, large chop.
Winds are 25-30 MPH NE.
So surf will suck, and I will wait until wind subsides.

 

A couple years ago, I wrecked the nose of a nice used, Frierson longboard I had bought the month before. Crappy, low tide, closeout surf. Got hit in the face with the board as well. Only fitting, I suppose; I was stupid. Now if I must go out in such conditions, I'll take the old, beat up Gnaraloo Fatty soft top. The thing is a tank. I used to be embarrassed being seen with it, now I don't care.

Got out 5 days last week, 3 of them in the morning before work. Nice way to start any day. Flat out there this morning...high tide. May try lunch time.

 

I don't envy you Right Coast buoys during this time of year.

OTOH, it sure makes this board a lot more interesting