who here has been surfing this week?

You are trying too hard....

 

Guilty pleasure lol

 

I'm about to head out in the next half hour. Looks pretty good from what I've seen so far! This will be like the 9 of the last 11 days that I've surfed! It's been a really awesome past 4 weeks in Southern Monmouth/Northern Ocean Counties. I haven't traveled much to scope out LBI or Atlantic/Cape May Counties, but I haven't really needed to. Definitely wanna hit up a few spots to the south before school gets out for the summer and the beaches start getting crowded with families and you need a beach badge. I figure the next two weeks (weekends aside) will be the last two weeks before all of that.

LBI looks pretty sweet on the cams right now.

Flat in Hawaii? Must explain why we've gotten a really nice string of great waves in Jersey for the past 4 or 5 weeks!

For once I think I'm not bitter about being in Jersey and not Hawaii, but I'm sure that will change real soon here! Regardless, I'd much rather be in Hawaii, but it's been a nice consolation these past few weeks here.

 

some south swells coming late next week
the thing I love about West coast and hawaii swells is they're 'baked in the cake'
once the fetch train leaves, it is on its way
east coast swells can be all set and then sh1t the bed if the front sways one way or another

 

left work early to beat the traffic, made it to the beach in an hr. water 53 air 75, nice 2 hr sesh. I refuse to wear a 4-3 in june. no gloves or boots but there were people wearing lobsta claws! I couldn't help but think,"what a pussi! still salty and very relaxed! hope everyone has a great weekend!

 

Full on beach day. Offshore chest 2 shoulder peeling left and right runners. Not crowded just the local Boyz trading waves and doobies and beers with some ladies running around in kinis.
Good day. Chow time, early bed, repeat tomorrow.

 

Good day

 

Only had time for a 35 minute "quickie" at noontime today. Better than nuthin'. Then had to get back to the orifice...office.
Lifeguards had the yellow flags out.

 

It is about 7:30 Am Sat. I just got back from a session. Went in at 5AM surfed for 2 hrs, and now I am sitting with nice coffee in hand. Nobody out but me for 1st hour; then a couple massholes showed up but wayyyy down da beach. Was waist to chest, glassy, and some nice peelers. Had many nice ones. I am now back into the groove after a couple of schitty sessions.
Was nice to leave the water as even more massholes were showing up, all with brightly colored boards (gay), all of them screaming and yelling like school yard girls.
No bikinis just yet. I will report on that as it develops!!

 

Glassy knee to waist long board sesh earlier.
No one in sight sept for a few weekend warrior fishermen.
Just had brekkie and gonna head back for sesh #2.

 

Friday
Told the boss 'no workee today' & split for TPTSNBM @ 0200. Arrived 0430, paddled out 0500. Had place to self for an hour or so. HH then.
Surfed 3 hrs.
Break, drove down beach a few miles, food, sleep.
Surfed againe into low, waist high then.
Great day of really fun surf. Props to Surfline, they called it spot on, from swell / time to winds rotating W to soufwest.
Back in concrete land by 1830.

Have put over 1k miles on rig in past 2 wks going surfing. I know...I know...

 

This is really impressive. Driving 2 1/2 hours to paddle out at first light for 3 hours by yourself?

I am totally ashamed of myself. I am a 30 second bicycle ride to the break and i sleep in.

This puts me in my place. That is dedication. I must motivate. I am inspired. Thanks. you must be stoked.

 

+1

 

Finally a decent swell. Two sessions yesterday, one on the Flashback Fish, the other on the M-80. Fish was the better call. Afternoon / sunset session was bigger than morning session but not breaking as good.

Full moon incoming high tide had too much water rushing the bars, made it swamped out and wonky. Lots of back wash too, which doesn't happen often at this spots. Left kinda frustrated. I regret not hitting the first spot I checked.

This morning / early afternoon fixed that. Same spot but out going tide. I took the LB out for some waist - chest glassy liners. It got better as the tide was dropping out. Much better. I got tons of waves today, feels good!

 

Gracias for stoke mission support, buoys

I put my mind elsewhere for the drive, it's good-to-be-alone time. The anticipation of what awaits me helps diminish the long drive times. 150 miles each way to surf. Too many speeding tkts from Maryland smokies. And too many deer running across 50 in the pre-dawn dark; haven't hit one, yet, but have seen many obliterated pavment smears from the semis meeting Bambi @ 80 mph.

 

That is a long drive, but at least you have the guts to do it--congrats.
I used to drive 45 minutes to surf, but because we retired and moved, I am now blessed to be but 1 mile from the beach. But when I did drive, I listened to a lot of great music, which for me meant Bach, Beethoven and lots of John Mayall and Clapton etc. I still love listening to great blues at home with the sound cranked up (but only when the Mrs is out on errands--she doesn't care for the "loud" part of my music habit). Anyway, despite wanting to NOT take anymore surf trips, I am getting the itch to go somewhere I haven't.....but flying there, let others drive.

 

20+ years ago the old e350 i had just bought the day before with the young boys and wifey all loaded up for a 500 miles to Hatteras hit two little deer at 3a.m. in virginia. Pulled over to check the damage, gotback in the van and made the lighthouse jetty by first light paddle out. Good trip, but front grill damage was a bummer. Nothing else broke was an amazing blessing. Doing that 500 mile drive now with just wifey in the badass two-seater mommy van loaded up for 10 days on the beach in Buxton just a week and a half from now. Pretty stoked, no more cancer and a new custom board awaits me there.

 

Second sesh around noon.
Waist high nothing burgers.
Saw a shark about 20 feet from me.
Paddled in.

 

Great sesh last night, crowded the first hour but it thinned out just when it seemed to really clean up. I got in the water at 7 30 this morning but it was already turning to mush. Still nice to be out though and snagged a couple fun ones. Nice to see the sun again in New England.