who here has been surfing this week?

absolute blast this morning when winds were light...yesterday evening was fun too...Had a great sesh this morning...long rides and rippable bowls.

 

does body surfing count?

its been really small here in WB

 

Bump. This tread shall not fall off the first page of ye ole forum. And I've been in PA all weekend power washing.

 

Yesterday I wasn't able to get out but saw it was about waist high or so. I ended up doing the family thing with the in-laws and rode some rides at Busch Gardens and then grubbed on home made BBQ cooked by my Father In-law, who is a retired Drill Instructor. The man can cook! Ribs were amazing and the Lagunitas were nearly frozen and went down fast.

I checked the buoy before bed and saw the long period swell was still hanging around in the 16-18 second range. When I woke up nothing had really changed so I grabbed the LB and headed for my favorite summer time sandbar. It picks up the small E / SE trade swells better than most. Just before sunrise it looked about knee - thigh. It was mid-low outgoing tide.

I knew it would get better as time went on so I paddled out. Caught one right away and rode it to shore. A lull here and there but as the morning went on and tide dropped it picked up and was really fun for 3+hrs, many waves were in the waist high range but a few were stomach / chest high peaks with long waist high shoulders. I had it all to myself for much of the session. There was one older lady who paddled out near me and we said hello and inspected each other's boarts and then we paddled off, I kept my peak and she went to her own. Respectul.

Gorgeous morning with a glaring sun rise. I could have used some shades today. My wave count was very high, I lost count. The LB was eating those wave up. They had good form with the long period energy. With calm wind - light offshore, they were lining up pretty nice. Now time to grub.

 

Friday: sunset sesh at TPTSNBN. Very fun waist high peeling waves. Bonus chips: not many closeouts. Offshore W to WSW wind was good. Mosquitoes on offer, horseflies not yet.

DP Sat @ State, on it from 530am - 9am. Surprised that no one was out until close to 0700 - - Ah, then I remembered the Internet fucasts were ALL dead red / lousy. Many folks deciding surf / not surf without getting out of bed, I'm not criticizing just making an observation.

Net result was that I couldn't believe I had the place to self in these conditions for hours: glassy, no wind, HH peeling sets, sandbars very nicely in place. Great, great morning, well worth the 3 hr drive.

There was the 'duble' wave all wknd, btw, evidence of 2 swells. The long period swell discussed by fucasters, as well as the 7 sec swell. Made for that quick dbl up wave pairing - - the 2nd wave being good-lookin' but a fake-out if you went for it. The 1st or 3rd or 4th wave in the set was the one worth digging for.

Sat afternoon @ TPTSNBN was rough: heavy S wind pushed me 1/2 mile N in less than an hour. Decent energy in water, just chop citay. Still managed to score a few fun ones.

Sunday morn (today) looked pretty weak & S wind was kickin' again, so it was time to break camp, saddle up & roll west.

Water very warm; I was toasty in a 3/2; the smarter guys word spring suits or boards. No upwelling that I experienced.

A really fun wknd of waves, camping, good weather, minimal vampires. Luv it out there at TPTSNBN!

Keed, you were curious: that small long period swell was turning out some decent waves for us over here on the wrong coast. Some of them not small at all. Lotta fun

 

Yeah, sounds a lot like what me and Trev were expecting at the places that don't mind a little smallish long period stuff.

Those types of swells don't make it out in your neck of the woods often, so I'm glad to hear that some of you got to sample some fun stuff.

I wonder how that Canuck in New Scots fared?

 

So I getz to da beach dis morning, waves are chest to head high, tide was way high, waves breaking right up against The Wall. Nobody out; chicken sh1ts are all asleep. Plus they too chicken to surf near the Wall.
2 hours by myself, great drops, fast rides, kick out before smacking into the Wall.
Got out just before tmy predetermined exit closed off due to high tide.
As I stripped out of wetsuit, Massholes started poring in, saw it was high tide, and headed to an easier surf location, one where there is little to no challenge. Pussies......

 

Your sh*t hole break has a wall you have to contend with? Lmao

 

LOL, the walls a good spot, surfed it a couple of times and the very first time was just how Barry describes, in fact you can almost catch a wave out after it hits the wall. I got in trouble once and almost became part of the wall. At least it's only massholes barry, we have plenty of conneticvnts. LOL. Just kiddin people...

Had a fun coupe of days, a little mush but fun. Last night only three people out, couldn't believe it.

 

Sounds amazing.

 

Well, amazing may be taking it a little too far. The tide does drop...

 

Only if I choose to go to that particular sh1thole. But it is a nice break (sometimes) when waves get over head high, and it scares the beejezus out of 99% of surfers at high tide.
I like it at high tide. Flying along the wall (both the wave and the cement structure) then pull out quickly at the very last moment.
But it isn't my normal "go to" spot.

 

got into some chop shoulder hi conditions yesterday. Wasn't as clean in the mid-afternoon hi tide, but rideable w a side of white wash. mainly going left. flying down the line, only managed a couple cutbacks. crowded of course, but not great at other spots along folly so had to be dealt. was good to be in the water, looking at some clean rainy days during the work week- may try for a rare IOP morning session to change it up

 

Do you bring your helmet when it's high tide?

 

No, just condoms.......trying to "be safe"!!!

 

LOL Good one!

 

Anyway, it is big again today (by big I mean=shoulder high) and I was going to go out, but something precipitated a migraine this morning which required taking vicodin. Too groggy at the moment to go out. Maybe this afternoon.

 

Vicodin for a migraine? Going big! HAHA

 

I get "disabling migraine"; cannot drive; cannot do ****--lock myself in room close blinds & go to sleep. Doesn't happen often, but enough for my doc to give me elephant ammo to deal with it.

 

I use to get those when I was younger, to the point of throwing up non-stop until I finally pass out and sleep a good 8 hours.