who here has been surfing this week?

Yup.

 

I can infer from your post that you have/are recently experienced a health challenge. Whatever it is/was, I hope you will be well, and soon.

 

That's so awesome! I'm pretty sure I saw you all on the cam. Was wishing I had gone up but I had gotten out several times this week in the local choppe so I'll save it for another time.

This is so true. I always try to make my last wave of a sesh a good one. Maybe not wave of the day but at least a decent one because there's always the possibility I won't make it back out. At my age, 57, I often wonder while out surfing if this might be my last time or last wave. While I have no impending issues, you just never know what's around the corner. I savor every moment in the brine.

 

hope your ok?

 

More fun on the LB today. Glassy conditions with light offshores at first light through much of the morning. Waves were a tad smaller than yesterday but still pretty consistent and had many surprisingly long rides for only knee - thigh with a few waist peaks. Lots of crouching and tucking up into the wave face while going for 40-50 yards. There was a few legit ones too that let me carve the face and make some turns. Summer hasn't sucked so far.

There were turtle tracks all along the beach, I saw the same big turtle in the water I've seen the past few days. Saw some fins too, and not the porpoise kind either. Gorgeous morning all together. I'm starting to look into the Rx Sea Specs, tired of holding my hand up to shield the sun during sunrise hours.

 

Turning into a "geezer" are you??? <grin>

 

Lol I wear sunglasses anytime I'm outside, only time I don't is when I surf, which is when the sun is the most bright because I'm always there at sunrise, so I figure it only makes sense. Then I can let my arm rest between waves because I won't be saluting the horizon anymore. I wear contacts normally but doesn't help with the sun. This will kill two birds with one stone.

 

I actually thought of doing the same as you--looking into the sun sucks. And I AM a geezer...but still surfing!!

 

The Rx ones are $195, if they don't get lost it should be worth it.

 

That is cheap considering the benefits.

 

Indeed.

 

I remember seeing this guy in Belmar lol,true story probably 72 years old.hurricane swell,guy literally did nothing lol,jumped in on a shortboard,let the rip carry him out,ended up infront of the wave of the day,probably took 2 strokes and was on the wave of the day with 0 effort,and rode it all the way in and called it a day

u will never be too old

 

^^^ old dude has good karma

And that's right, never too old.

We get clever as we age.

 

Took a buddy from PA surfing today. He's 55 and has never been on a surfboard but he knows the ocean OK from decades of fishing and doing the weekly family vacation thingie his whole life. I sent him out on a 7'6 WRV fun.
It was knee high on a dwarf. There were maybe 6 or so SUP guys and one guy on a mini Simmons who was acting annoyed that he didn't have the micro waves on the peak all to himself. My bud did good for a first time, no stand up but belly riding and having a blast. The Douche Canoe on the Sims is literally trying to paddle around us, jockeying for position for waves that really weren't waves but little lumps, like newly formed boobies.
Then, my youngest son and his friend came out on longboards acting like drunk high school girls. Douche Canoe got out all bitter, like his day was ruined.
Here we were, young and old, newbie and salty veteran, SUP, long, fun boards, acting like goof balls, having a blast on a tiny but perfect Summer's day and this one guy just didn't get it. I felt bad for him.

 

Post Script. After we got out, we cruised down to Wildwood to Kona surf shop for their second annual board swap. Good band playing, hot dogs cooking, awesome vibe. Some true OG, old souls mixed in with groms and the random hipster. It was a great day and I think I caught maybe 5 tiny waves all day.

 

Post, post script
Betty, I hope all is OK.
Congrats Bassmon. My wife saved my life. I'd be dead or doing life in prison if not for her. That's not exaggerating.

 

Fun summertime, dead high tide shorebreak this morning. There was a boatload of current and constant rips about every 15 minutes but once you got past that there were some shifty little drainers out there. The wife snapped these out front after walking the dog. Glad I got a few because this week looks horrid.

 

Yesterday was a good day.

 

You are always on SI- you ARE "doing life in prison"!!!!

 

It is flat today, and, the water temp is 52*F!! That is 10 degrees less than normal for this time of year. Due to upwellings near the coast. Went out yesterday but in a 4/3, an old one, I use to distance paddle. Boots and gloves were mandatory.