who here has been surfing this week?

Dammit, screw you Mitchell! Ha Ha

 

Sounds like a good time!

 

Nice pic of Chris...been an extremely difficult time as of late...Surfing seems to be just no longer as important...still nice to get wet, even tho very small.

 

Definitely good times and a suite consolation prize for not going to Oahu, which is now 3 straight years that I haven't been!

 

My wife and I are in search of some knee high BOMBS today, I'll have an epic report later. I'll be bach.

 

Beautiful morning it was. Knee - thigh and clean on high - low outgoing tide. Light offshore wind early and very light onshore as the afternoon seabreeze kicked in. My wife caught a few on the foamie, I caught a couple dozen on the LB. Nicely formed little nuggets. Just got back from lunch. Tried the pulled turkey dip which was awesome. Also tried Jdub's Up Top IPA which was very refreshing and good. Highly recommended.

 

I went out at 5AM or so...waves were knee high, paddled my 2 miles stopping to catch a couple waves every few minutes.
Then a huge grey seal popped up near me an followed my on my return paddle....a bit un-nerving as that image of a great white shark flying out of the water with a 500 lb seal in its toothy grip kinda got to me. What if it got confused and thought I was the blubbery meal?? Was glad when I got back. Did not even soil myself.....i'm so proud of myself!!!

A great morning!!

 

Yewwwwville!

Had a great week in AC. Surfed almost every day. There was pretty much something fun to ride all the time.

Went up north to a spot in Ocean County today and had an absolute blast on some thigh to waist to stomach hi peelers. I was on a sand bar that was packing a little bit more punch than just about everywhere else nearby. Sun was shining and the winds were straight off shore. Simmons was eating that ish up. Super stoked off twin fins right now. My next board might be a hybrid/performance twin. Been watching a lot of Asher Pacey. Dude is insane on twins.

About 2/3rds way through my session today there were two hump back whales breaching within 30 yards of me. Everyone on the beach gave them a standing ovation for the 10 minutes that they stuck around feeding. It was one of the coolest things I've ever seen and I had the best seat in the house all to myself. The aquatic life we as surfers are privileged to is just awesome.

Stoking

 

I agree. The boards that i take out in real good waves...calm or light offshore, water above 50, hollow or at least steep, chest high or bigger...have been sitting unridden for months. Except on the trip i just took. Other than that, grovel boards for the past few months, period.

 

Another really fun morning. Pretty similar to the 4th, but better. On the 4th high tide was early and i had to wait 2 hours for it to drop before it was surfable. Well today high was at 830. Which is ok since I'm on call for work and really shouldn't surf past 830 anyway. So i woke up at 4 and took the 15 minute drive to the beach. Not many people around. Grabbed my mini and just went without checking. Winds were light and offshore. It was perfect little groomed lines. Thigh high with a set in the waist high range every now and then. Surfed with just two older guys who I'm friendly with for the first little while. We were all stoked on how good it actually was. Softish, but with just enough punch to do done actual surfing. On the mini i was able to pull off full cutbacks with the rebound off the white water. Which for a day so small, was a pleasant treat and got me amping real good. I didn't even bother with the smaller ones. I just sat outside and patiently waited for the sets. Got a handful of really good ones. Then it started getting crowded and the tide was filling in. Happy i got up early and caught the best of it.

All things considered, it was perfect. Sure a little (or allot) more size would of been nice, but besides that i can't ask for any more. The water has been pretty darn chilly, but today was bath water warm. Beautiful morning.

I also had a thought today that really made me laugh. It's funny how it doesn't matter how big or small it is. When i see a set or a good wave, i get overwhelmed with excitement. Whether its overhead or 2 feet, its the same reaction. Hooting, paddling like it's the best wave i ever saw. Just made me laugh.

Have a good one guys, hope everyone got/gets a little slide-age.

 

Good report, Bass.
Got out twice last week during lunch on Thurs and Friday. Knee-high predicted but was rewarded with some small but well formed nuggets on Thursday. Friday, not so much. Water was also a bit cooler and dirtier.
Up until today, it's been in the 90s. Wear rash guards and use that sunscreen, guys. Gotta find a good surf hat.

 

Got out late morning yesterday, not much but still had the odd bigger set (bigger meaning waist maybe) come through for a couple long rights. Tide was going out and it was very shallow over the rocks, couple new dings to add to the collection.
No complaints at all, anytime in the water is much appreciated. Slammed with work, never been so tired.

 

Good write up, Bass. Couldn't agree with you more about getting stoked on those set waves.

I gotta make my way back up north one of these days so we can hit the point together on the minis.

 

Surf was actually better on Saturday then Friday believe it or not. Better size, shape and conditions. Not sure where it came from or why that little swell stuck around and improved but it did.

 

Definitely man. These past two weekends conditions were looking good for it but i was hesitant to go with such a small swell. Itching to get there. Such a good damn wave

 

Yesterday was total shocker. I went for quick session and stayed for 4 hrs. Thigh-waist, perfect little peelers. Excellent weekend score for July. Today I mow the lawn.....

 

Went for a paddle on the LB today. Waves were barely knee high and gutless. I'm glad I went though, paddled for and hour until the thunderstorm hit and had to call it. Definitely not good enough to chance staying.

 

Columbia makes a good surf hat....just bought one recently.

 

Flat today--went for a bike ride instead. Water temps round 54-55*F. We have not yet had a 60*F water temp day yet this summer. Reason--strong west winds blowing surface waters out to sea, upwellings near shore. But it still mens a 3/2 for me, but with boots, no gloves.
Tomorrow, when the Massholes go home, I will be out. Did you guys know that Massachusetts people smell? And their women have mustaches along with the ugliest tattoos. They are ugly to boot.

 

I've heard people say they thought west winds bring cold water. But everywhere on the east coast where I have lived it is south wind to side shore that causes the upwelling. I also remember my oceanography teacher in college explaining how sideshore wind cause the warm surface water to make a 90 degree turn out to sea allowing the deep cold water to well up along the shore. All I know is East to Northeast wind means trunks.