who here has been surfing this week?

Knee - thigh here but holding off till after work, should be rideable, hopefully.

 

well ive been working fires 16 hours a day for the past month or so with no days off. yesterday i pulled a 28 hour shift, slept a few hours in a highschool classroom packed wall to wall at a school FEMA commandeered as ICP and got rolled onto a night shift. im a squad boss so ive been making the maggots do patrols all night.

good news is that waves have been windy shwag so i havent been missing shi t and i should have a few thousand dollars coming my way when i get home and can drink again

counting bugs and planning surf trips. sometimes this job makes me think i should get a cyber gig paying in euros and just perpetually travel. these rich yuppies dont need anymore dirt rats dieing for their summer mountain homes and its getting old playing the odds and eating mres

 

tropical remnants... i'm hoping i'm all healed up by the time the fam gets in town this wknd. hoping to score some waves possibly Thursday/Friday. figured the pulled muscle tendon is gonna keep me sidelined for another couple days, giving myself a day even if the pain goes away

 

Heal up dude!

 

Ooh man, I'll take my toe injury over any kind of knee injury. Knee injuries scare me. Nurse it for sure. Ive found my 4th toe is relatively expndible. Other than a little pain, so far I can do everything pretty normally. Bike ride this morning was fine. Afternoon swim was fine. Will try running tomorrow, that may suck. I have sprint triathlon in a week and a half for charity that Im supposed to be training for.

 

Are you working those California fires?

Dude I'll buy a few cases of those MRE's and take them off your hands lol

 

Yeah I've been taking it easy on it, letting it heal. Good luck on the triathlon!

 

Tiny...still fun.

 

That sucks. My high school GF was stacked. Things were huge. Poor taste Barry. Poor taste.

 

#nosurfforme

But, I am eternally optimistic. Maybe this weekend up in secret inlet spot with lots of cholos. I'll close my eyes, if I can't see them, they can't see me.

 

How was it, Chavey....? Lotta 'walkers'....? Those are the people who, for reasons unbeknownst to this guy, heave gigantic packs onto their backs & trudge for miles down the beach in blazing sun, with vampire horseflies taking chunks out of their flesh the entire way...but no one seems to know where the walkers go....

 

Right with you Bmon.
My girl had some C cups.

But anywho, been rocking a 7' softie for the past week.
Not much in surf size, but at least I'm wet and riding.

 

I was much more interested in other parts........which was one of the best tubes ever.

 

Tried to DP it this morning... but it was just too small. I looked at it and said to myself, "Well... I guess that's what 2 1/2 feet at 5 seconds looks like."

 

Buoy is showing the SE 1.6' @ 10.5 starting to mix with the windswell...should be epic later

 

Flat in NH.
Went for 2 mile paddle on glassy smooth waters.
Quite a lot of menhaden schools working their way South now. I noticed no Atlantic Terns once again, diving on the school. So I searched on line and found article saying last 2 years there has been "massive" chick die-off in Iceland nesting sites, starting in 2014. I noticed their absence first 2 years ago. Too bad--I enjoyed them diving on small bait fish as I paddled along early in the mornings......
Hopefully, what ever is killing the chicks will turn around.

 

Early DP, trying to beat side shore wind that i thought was going to come up. the wind was fine, and it wasn't too small, it was just this short period stacked up lumps that never seem to hit the sand bar and break properly, they feather, crumble and require you to keep cutting back to stay in what little bit of a pocket there is. same waves we've been getting like almost every day in the last three weeks it seems. Just enough to make you want to paddle out, but not 8 sessions in a row! I milked it for a 2 hour session, get a few fun lefts.

 

6:30 am to 8 am - got 5 ok waves. Saw a bunch of Dolphins. Worth it

 

Super fun late afternoon... me and 100 cow nose rays surfing in warm, clear water. Longboard heaven.

 

Right?! I didn't expect much after. But it was really fun. Waist high, light offshore on the fish.