who here has been surfing this week?

By 4 PM Tuesday I was in excruciating pain. In my abdomen. At first I blamed the hot donuts but then it spread to me back. WORST f@cking pain I've ever experienced in my life. And I've been in motorcycle accidents, gotten my azz kicked bad, and had a finger cut off.
Went to a hospital off Dam Neck road (Princess Anne I think). CT Scan showed it was a kidney stone and that I was in the process of passing it. Then, around midnight, I pissed like 10 times in 15 minutes and the pain was gone. Woke up the next morning, went to Margie and Rays and got some eggs and home fries, and all was well.

 

Been down in Buxton at Cape Woods campground since Thursday AM. Staying in an air conditioned cabin. Waist high waves, a pool, climbed the lighthouse for the first time in 20 years and for the first time sober, girls on the beach and surfing in semi thongs. I love this place.
Leaving today and have to go all the way to my house that I bought in PA to fix a gutter that is leaking. The ole lady said the rain up in PA/NJ has been bad. Oh well, back to reality....

 

hasnt been a sandbar there for over a month. It dies every summer for a month or two, waiting for a NE blow to pull sand off the beach.

 

Thanks Mitchell. I figured you or Z would know.

 

Yes the 6mil...restricto. 5 is good enough for me.

 

@CyC: Sorry to hear about the K-stone, but glad it passed. Margie & Rays is good eatin'. I hope you sampled the She Crab soup. Thx for the report. Peace.

 

If you go, you go to Buxton. I surfed there end june/early july 9 out of 11 days were fun and no wetsuit. They always get swell. Pure stoke.

 

Yes no wetsuit for me. Last saturday was ok fun. Wednesday was even better. Thursday was really fun. Rode three different real surfboards, saturday small= 10' 50-50, wednesday twin fin, thursday 5-fin bonzer. Pure stoke.

 

Winds were shat in south MoCo this am. Never seemed to switch offshore where I was. Brought the log, caught a couple fun ones. This past week was pretty fun. Just anticipating some real swell now... doesn't look like the upcoming week has much to offer.

 

Yeah, Cdog, the she crab soup was excellent! Thanks again for the pre-trip info.

 

Lots of fun on the LB today. Waist high for the most part, a couple bigger ones mixed in. Lots of good rides. Had the place to myself for a while and then a couple people paddled out but they kept their distance so it was no problem. It's nice being able to actually get tired from catching waves. Before this last little swell it was hard to get a decent worn out because of how small it has been It won't be long and we'll have a legit swell come through, hurricane season is about to start pumping some some storms out.

 

Not me.

I love my job, but the 10 day stretch where I have to work in July is just a real pain in the ass and just feels way out of place. Two more 12+ hour days of this **** and then quite a few days of making up the 20 hour sleep deficit that I've racked up. Hoping to get out a few days next week before leaving for Vegas for a week on the Monday after this coming Monday!

My friends have already been breaking my balls and sending me pictures texts of what they've been surfing the past week.

 

Small wave today...surfed a bit.....paddled then two miles.....then back to surfing some more.
Beautiful New Hampshire morning. I was in the water at 5:30.
Now time for coffee, then a bike ride along the coast. Then family comes to visit for 2 days.
Life is good at Cuda Mansion.....

 

Same...

June and July have been amazingly consistent... compared to past summers. There's been something to ride every week... sometimes for days straight. Good enough to switch up boards and get some variety in, too.

Next week... not so much. But we'll see...

 

This morning was even better than yesterday. Went with the LB again, good call, waves were clean, consistent, and waist high with the occasional bigger set. Long lines with walls that held. I couldn't ask for much more than that in July.

 

Caught about five knee to thigh highs today. The last was the best one, the one that put a grin on my face.

Today was the first day in 8 weeks I was able to walk to the ocean from the car. Granted I was unable to walk back, but this is huge and makes me think I can keep healing.

It felt so wonderful to paddle out against waves that had some mild push to them. We all know that feeling of Ahhhhhhhh! , as we first paddle out.

The legs are still tricky, cannot do much once popped up, can't crouch yet, or move the feet up and down the board to shift weight.

But that wonderful feeling of feeling the back of the board lift up and accelerate still is the ticket

 

Yesterday (Saturday):
departed concrete canyon land 0300, arrived TPTSNBN 0530. Spot check N Beach revealed not much happening, yet 25+ people with various boarts in the water already @ 0600.


Low was 0640ish. Hit TPSNBN. Paddled out 0645ish.TPTSNBN is almost always best around low-to-incoming-high, butt the first 2 hrs after dead low......after that, the incoming high isn't as strong a push with waves, as well the AI Fakeout commences. Lotta people miss wave after wave that seems to stand up outside only to slack roll down & then pick up on the inside bar. Ergo, the AI Fakeout.

Was so crowded at the top of the OSV. Summer hordes. Lil dudes on giant corky boarts. And they could surf. Ugh.

Anyways 37 waves, according to Trace (toss 1/3 of those, if anyone has Trace you know why) before bailing at 0930. Traffic = 4 hr drive back.

The bars are holding up & are close in. Lotta fun on the Drifter. Several decent long lefts, surprisingly, to practice turns on the big boart. Good day of surfin'.

 

Keep up the good work, and congrats on the effort--I am sure we are ALL rooting for your better health!!

 

Agreed with Barry. Glad you still had some fun ones though!


Caught a few handfuls of knee high waves on the log today. Nice sunny day with off shore winds in the morn. Haven't really been longboarding in a while so I guess it's nice to change it up. I'd rather be on my shortboard or mini, but I got a few cross steps in today and some long rides.

 

Great report, thanks. Is that drifter a harbour? Atlantic/neptune beach nfla do the fakeout, too.