who here has been surfing this week?

The title of the thread is Whose been SURFING!?? NOT whose been riding there Boogie board dork! And stop going threw every thread an whining that I report you. I reported one of you posts cause you were blatantly Trolling ya goon. Stop obsessin and you wouldnt have these issues f@ggot.

 

Wow so your really did tattle on Yankee? I thought he was just giving you crap but damn son you are a little whiny snitch huh.

 

He did the same sh!t to me why do you think I got Banned. What's good for the goose ...... I reported one comment that's it, and it was the first time I ever reported a comment so you can suck it sideways as well.

 

Was stoked to get out yesterday for 3hrs. First time in EC water since Christmas Day. Water still 37-39F here but it was really only cold on the face with single-digit wind and low 50s air. Rocked the 5/4 first time in months as well as 3mm five-finger gloves and 5mm split-toe boots for 3hrs with no comfort issues despite the water in 30s. That was great but I didn't get to go mild hypo which always gives you the calming, anxiolytic buzz for hours later

Paddled out late morning with a good bud at one local break and fog was so thick you couldn't see out back til you were there. Lot of water moving around with well OH swell. Not too organized but sections were to be had. Got out back quickly since my duck diving has come a long way in the WC long period this winter. Rode the first one I paddled into on my 6' SB but buddy was getting spun on the paddle out so I headed back in with him since visibility was nil and this was not the day to be losing track of your bro when we were the only ones out.

Other bud pulled up when we were back to the car and we headed to a nearby break. En route there we passed the best wave in the area that only breaks every few months on a bigger swell and it's kept pretty quiet. 3 dudes were out and we headed out in a jiff. Lefts for days and a steep OH takeoff put you in a great pocket. The texture from the lighter onshores didn't help the lack of full organization in 11s period. NE winds had been blowing on this swell for the last couple days with the temps rising.

Got a couple of rides on the 6' but switched out to the midlength for the last hour on a few accounts. The current was significant, takeoffs were tougher outside of peaks and I didn't mind the overall paddling help given that I had worked for 15 hours straight before the sesh. Caught a couple beauties on the midlength where I got in the highline and hit a few early pumps to make sections then get back up to a fading shoulder after a good bottom turn. Was very pleased with that performance and know that now I need to cut back in the pocket for a little more action when I see the wave dying out.

Damn stoked at what my sessions in SF and SC have given me for break management, paddling, duck diving and several other essentials outside of riding the wave itself. That improvement was evident to me yesterday at my first home sesh in 3.5 months. I'm fairly solid these days once on a wave thanks to continually upping the Carver and skate game. Really excited to see the fun to be had in my third year of surfing. Above all else, my choices are very safe every session and etiquette is high. No matter how I perform on waves, I still am responsible for respecting the surf ecosystem.

Best part of it all was that I was out with two great buds. Planning to hit the chest to shoulder leftovers later this morning at mid tide so options should be good on finding at least one break that's working well. Contemplating going with the midlength out of the gate. Yeah, once I'm in a good wave I can do some fun stuff on my SBs but you can't tell me that getting double the rides on a 7'7 with decent rocker, winged tail, and full-size quads isn't allowing me to maneuver well and make me much better in the end on my SBs.

Hope all you guys find some stoke this weekend. If the swell doesn't cooperate, then hit your skate since roads are finally clear and the northeast is feeling bearable again. Better yet, get some quality leisure time in with family or friends. That's what it's all about in the end.

Cheers to all you Swellers on this seasonable day!

 

I highly doubt both of these statements ^. You have now shown yourself to be a little 2nd grade tattle tale. I thought you were the big tough guy who threatened Yankee via PM. What a wuss you are. No wonder you sucked so bad at Moto X.

 

Anxiolytic

 

So Bradley *is* a rat snitch, lol.

We're officially changing your handle to "RatSnitchB!tch".

Now go get yer fvcking Shine Box, B!tch.

 

I like Fadley's new name.

 

Just so you little boogy f@gs know this is how you all feel about real surfers but don't have the sack to do this crap face to face ,so hide behind your forum and try to fire me up, whatev! I'm so surfed out and punchy right now its time for a mumosa , a doob, and a little hot tub. Also any moto guy that makes it to the A class in no joke, and I admit in the A class I got smoked and It was way faster than I wanted to go at my age . So cheers poor little kooks go enjoy this awesome day, soooo nice out.

 

k bro

 

Lol KR I do love that word as well as other scientific terms.

 

caught good waves Monday
shoulder to head with long rides
too bad Brad's a snitch

 

An anxiolytic is a medication or other intervention that inhibits anxiety. This effect is in contrast to anxiogenic agents, which increase anxiety.

Drugs in class: Diazepam
Lorazepam
Icky Sticky Dank

#RatSnitchB!tch

 

In case you missed it:

 

We were at the beach today at first light and on the water to watch the sun rise. The air was still, and the experience was just so simple and so beautiful. The water was refreshing, air was Florida warm, two other guys out, that was all for a while.

The waves were easy, maybe thigh high, some bigger sets came through. I had some trouble getting my groove, but finally seemed to dial in the conditions after several nose dives....

The guys I knew on the water were encouraging and smiled that I finally asked the local guy to make me a board. I was happy that they thought I was "ready" for an epoxy board, and talked to me about how it will perform so much better. Another month of anticipation and then it will be ready...

Valhalla from Swellinfo spotted me today, he drives up from So Florida sometimes, I got to meet his wife. He and I talked about boards. He spotted me because of my big pink board. How will people find me when I no longer have that board?...He is a very pleasant guy, has been surfing only about two years, but loves it , of course.

 

Isn't a mumosa the drink queer's have at brunch?

That's what little whiny punks do.

 

Thanks for preserving that classic little piece of psychohistory, Swellin.

 

Hope you love your new board. How exciting!

 

Any time, man.



Think this is a good fit?

 

I did!! Finally after 5 months out of the water everything came together for a fun session. The local shop has a slim comp here every year and my oldest son entered. So we head to the beach with skim boards, short boards, and long boards. I'm still on crutches but I've got three fantastic sons to help get it all to the beach. Waves were small, knee to thigh and slick glass. The beach was crowded with young skimmers and their families and I got a few odd looks as I crutched my way to the water. I made it out about knee deep before I traded the crutches for my newest used board. As soon as I started paddling I felt at home again. I still can't stand but I got several little barrels on my belly. I even got spit out of one. Right now I am exhausted from 4 hours in the water and multiple trips through deep sugar sand on crutches but this has been the best day I've had since last year. God I love surfing.