who here has been surfing this week?

Got another really fun session in this morning before work. Paddled out a good 30 min before sunrise. I thought id have it all to myself but there was actually one other guy. We basically suited up and walked over the dune together. Guess we both are in the same boat.

Anyway at first glance i was a little disappointed. Small and fat. First few waves were too soft to really do anything until you got to the sand where it would wall up and you could get a good smack in before hitting sand. But after like 20 minutes it got really fun. They were standing up more and bigger. Waist/stomach high. Really clean. Lefts and rights. Don't remember if i mentioned this in my write up yesterday, but i got a TON of really good rights yesterday. For long island aka land of the lefts, that's unique. Especially on a bigger swell. Well i surfed the same spot and the rights were still working really good. Got one.... dropped in and got like 2 good solid pumps in then just went for broke on the lip. Threw everything i had at it. Which turned it into a layback snap, although the layback part wasn't on purpose. Feet stayed planted but couldn't get the rest of my body back over the board. After that one i was good. I had another 10 or 15 min to surf but decide on just one more quick one. End the session on a good note.

Between getting up early yesterday to check it out, passing due to closeouts, heading straight to work, hitting the afternoon sesh until dark, then getting up early again to surf, then hedging straight to work again.....i was in a fog all day. Really fun past two days

 

Surfed on Tuesday night for a few hours, after complaining about all the rain earlier that day. Then surfed for a few hours on Wednesday night. Had to drive to a spot a few towns south. It wasn't bad, it was nice for August 16th, but I had better days back in May/June. Maybe I didn't hit the right spots that day. Chest to shoulder high sets. Definitely the best day in a while though.

 

No means yes and yes means a**l.

 

page 666 \m/ \m/

 

Damn... you beat me to it.

 

I posted about my horrible Gert session in the other thread.

I can't believe how quickly that swell died. Thursday I got out to Second Beach for about 2 hours. Really small and not very good, but after Wednesday's disaster I'm chalking it up as a victory. Actually got a few lines, and that's going to have to be just ok.

 

Four mornings this week. No better way to start the day.

 

Looks like we'll have something today. I won't have much time to get out there, but I'm hoping to sneak in an hour or two.

 

Today was fun. All week i wasn't planning on heading out today. Forecast was showing heavy onshore winds and only like a waist high wave. Well after surfing gert the stoke tank got filled up and i just want more more more. So i looked at my weather app yesterday knowing the SI usually does over call the winds. It was showing light winds. I think ill check it.

Woke up and the buoy was at like 4 somthing feet but only at 6 seconds. Fun decent sized wind swell. Awesome. Winds were light. Paddled out early on my mini. Dead high tide. It had some good size. Stomach to chest but some sets were pushing shoulder high. Despite the high tide, it was actually pretty punchy and steep. They would roll in, look good, back off for a second then just jack up. Faces were clean but ocean as a whole was disorganized. I ate it on my first two waves trying to figure out my positioning. Plus the mini can handle a modestly steep wave, but late and steep is a bit more difficult. Had to dial that in too. Once i did it was really fun. Crowd was really light early and i was sitting over one peak anyway so i had it to myself.

As the tide dropped so did the size into the waist stomach high range, better shape, but not as steep or walled up. Ironic considering the tides. Crowd got heavier and kooky but drift took care of that.

Managed some really good ones. Early it was just super fast zippers. That mini gets borderline uncontrollable with a sizeable steep wall. Lots of fun though. Later in the sesh you were able to open up a bit and get some turns in. I mentioned sucking at floaters earlier in the week, got a really good one on my last wave today. Really fun session. Great week. Possibly a small log wave tomorrow?

 

A week from Monday all the human larvae (teens) go back to school. Vacation is OVAHHHHH!!!!
Many parents get back to work a few days after.........and normal life in a touron town returns to normal during the week. Weekends....still a couple of more weeks to go. Then home free!!

 

Couldn't surf all week. Made it out to The Rock today for leftovers.
Small window this morning on the outgoing tide was pretty fun.

 

went after work...pretty small; however, surprisingly fun thigh high peeler here and there...walked north 1/4 mile to get away from the crowd. pretty much had the waves to myself.

 

o barry

 

Damn tourons I tell ya!

 

Barry, I would have to agree. My wave count is way down per session this summer. Normally I dont really care and enjoy where I surf (good folks with good vibes), but add up the low wave count and slalom surfing when I do get one...been getting to me...probably should be driving on the sand more often to get away from everything.

 

its a beautiful thing

 

Had a fun day surfing Cape May on Saturday. It's semi-rare to get good surfing conditions in Cape May, but it's very fun when it happens. Love it down there, be it surfing or just spending the day walking around and hanging out there.

 

Wow. Another really fun day. Swell was looking small and hough tide early. Honestly thought I'd take the ride to the beach, see flatness, and go home. I was wrong. Got there about an hour before dead high tide. Checked it. Looked like it had potential to be surfable so i waited till about 15 min after dead high, suited up and grabbed my mini. Was seriously contemplating bringing the LB but the mini really can catch some tiny weak stuff.... and once up and riding its way more fun. Figured it'd be more of a paddle work out too.

Once i got in i was pleasantly surprised. Nothing special. Most would pass. But it was somthing. Thigh high, soft but nice clean lines straight to the sand. I had to pick and choose them. The LBs could catch any bump. But like i said, the mini is more fun to me and I'll take quality over quantity any day. Take off, a few gentle flowy pumps, a cutback, ride it to sand and try and hit the end section onto dry sand. Fun to be had.

Crowd was light for a summer Sunday. Some good older LBs that I'm cool with and chat with. A few guys who knew what they were doing who i didn't recognize but chatted about the week of waves and boards and stuff. A few kooks on soft tops, who knew they were kooks and were really friendly and knew there place staying out of everyone else's way. A few young kids who were 5 or so having a freaking blast claiming barrels and monster waves. So stoked. Lots of bait fish jumping around too. Fun morning and great week. 4 days in the water ain't bad for a week in mid August

 

^ sounds like a fun time, bass. Reading that makes me want to get some. Gorgeous weather for it too. I completely understand ya on choosing the mini over lb. I've used my log about two times this summer. I've had some seriously fun sessions on 2 ft waves with that mini.

 

Fun little session this morning coming off high tide. It was maybe waist high on sets. Nothing special but fun LB waves.