who here has been surfing this week?

Fun time in RI this morning. Got crowded with dingdongs around 10:00 including the always fun 'guy learning to surf a SUP' who felt the need to be right in the middle of the pack. Looking forward to the seaweed leaving town, it's gross. When I was getting out, I saw a guy paddling out to the point from the surf parking lot. That's a lot of paddling.

I feel sorry for people who don't surf and also for people who are trying to learn on a SUP. It's not easier than a LB.

 

Cape May is uniquely wonderful, a relaxing, civilized quiet town with peeling lefts. Pure stoke.

 

Definitely! Due to my job, living there is not quite possible. I already have quite the commute as it is. My mom/uncle have a place there, that they come up to during the Summer, so I'm there usually once or twice a week in the Summer.

Surf is sometimes hard to come by there, but it's fun when it's on!

 

Good day yesterday near the Marine base. They were blowing stuff up the entire time, sounded like distant thunder.

 

Spent surf season surfing at Carolina Beach. Some days better than others... Back to the school grind.


However... I got a cool-ass picture a couple of days ago of my son hanging out in South America with Laird Hamilton. Guess I could have posted that in the have you seen anything cool lately tread, but I'm to lazy to dig it up.

 

late afternoon longboard sesh in DE. SW wind made for clean conditions and there was a decent thigh high set every now and then that walled up for long speedy lefts. water was warm as hell....like 80 or so. very crowded conditions....I was sure I was gonna end up running someone over, sitting way outside on the log and having to weave through the kids hanging on the inside.

 

Lunch hour sesh. Knee high at best. Water was warm but dirty.

 

Super fun wind chop session tonight.

Went to a wind protected spot and caught some really fun waves on the mini. Got a few solid 4-5 turn waves. It surprisingly got so much more fun as the tide rose up. The refraction was doubling up set waves to stomach+. It was kinda nuking, looked like a mini wedge. Got a screamer on my last wave, pumped it for all it was worth and ended my sesh just as stoked as ever. Sweet sunset too. Water was a bit on the brisk side. Tmrw looks like it might offer a couple fun ones.

 

I snuck out tonight before sundown and got some choppy chest high waves. There were good drops and you could scoot around some sections. It was my first time on a bonzer. The thing was fast and blasted down the face and got away from me a couple times. It def requires some fin testing. I have a RFC rake 8.0 on it and I think it was too much fin.

 

i was out there too last night. strong swell, paddle out was tuff for some ppls. took out a 6'9" tuflite SurfRx that got ya down the wave quick but i couldn't get any lines. did see some get a lil ways, but it was all about the drops. this morning was more manageable, lil less in the size i'd say, but i was able to rip w a lil more comfort. took out the a longer fisch. crazy is in the past week i've surfed 3 times now with thunder and lightning in the distance on some randumb clouds about. what's crazier is in the past week i've seen now 3 guys w hoods on in 85 degree water temps. cmon

 

I paddled out briefly after work, it was blown out and drifty, non-stop incoming barrage of white water. I lost interest quick and went home.

 

Small but fun longboard waves in moco yesterday afternoon. Very sporadic though, like 1-3 wave sets every 5-10 minutes. Probably waist high on the better ones, and long rides if you could make it through the soft spots on the inside. Looked crowded at the spot I was at but only a couple other guys on the peak so no problem getting waves (when they actually came through). Water was noticeably cooler than a week ago (felt colder Tuesday night too, but even moreso yesterday). Not much else notable to say, but I had fun.

 

My session last night in S. Moco was a lot of fun too. Fun S swell - thigh to waist/stomach on the sets. Off shore wind and a gorgeous pink sunset. Got my gf out on her wavestorm, it was her first session in waves that big, but she handled it like a boss and caught some really good rights.

I surfed this foiled out simmons-esq 7'2" 2+1 midlength that I just picked up for my buddy. The thinned rails were so responsive, but the plan shape is wide and minimal rocker, so it caught every wave. It hugged the face really nice and I got some sick rides perched up on the nose. After riding that for a bit I switched out to my 5'4" simm and had some fun mushy/rolly high tide waves.

There was one rogue shoulder high wave that spooked me out because my girl was on the inside. I wasn't worried for myself, but she's pretty tiny maybe 110lbs. She dove under like a boss and came out unscathed. I was proud. Couldn't ask for much more in a summer night. Stoked.

Pics of the sunset over the lake and this 7'2" I'm talking about...

 

Kanman, nice sunset.... pretty sure that's right by my house actually.... but I live on the other side of the tracks...

ALSO, nice Chaize board, he makes boards that are perfect for NJ!

I got in yesterday morning and this morning. Yesterday was fun, glassy and waist to chest hi... a handful of guys out but really fun.

This morning was also fun, thigh/waist hi on set and long rides peeling all the way to the beach... it was only good until like 630am then it got deep... only one out, it was great! Long noserides on the 10'4 pig

 

Got out this afternoon... really small and a weird north windbump on it. Kinda sucked. So I went for a long paddle.

 

Right on, Mr. B. Jealous that you live that close. Pretty positive we have surfed near each other a couple times around that way.

The Chaize is sick. Snagged that board with the middle fin, side bites and a brand new board bag for 200. Gonna keep riding her until my friend comes back and picks it up.

 

I had a board similar to that kan. 7'8. LB Outline. Pulled in tail. And only a single. So pretty diffrent shape wise. But the thing was all foiled out. Like super foiled. It was so much fun on big stuff. For a bigger board, it was very high performance. And over all it really wasn't as big as it seemed when you figure the foil. Tail was like 1/4 inch thick. So awesome

 

^ Bass, that's exactly how I was feeling when riding it. It felt like it was much smaller and more maneuverable than something of a similar size with fuller rails. Kinda jealous it's not mine.

 

https://kek.gg/i/vY6vj.jpg

 

Nice man I bet we have surfed together a few times... or at least within a few jetties... I'm the guy that your always riding behind! Lol jk I'm actually pretty mellow and frequent a spot close to where you took that pic...

Anyways... did you happen to ride your bikes to the beach that day? I drove past a guy and girl riding with boards on their bike surfracks... thought it was funny cause the wavestorm on the rack...

#teamwavestorm