I didn't get crap today, though. Missed the dawn patrol, and when I got out there around 2 it looked like flat crap poo waves. Took a nap instead.
Got my ass handed to me in nags head today. Not my day, just out of rythmm, couldn't shake it. Happens sometimes, wish it was a 2ft slop day and not this though...
Toonces - what time did you surf Second yesterday? I was out in the mid afternoon and had a great session as well. Glad you scored. Surfed in NH today at Barry's secret spot but not until the afternoon so I must have missed him. Next time, Barry!
I can't believe I just surfed the spot that I surfed tonight.... Yea it was fun and all... but I'm thinking that I could get sick or get the harpies or something from this spot.... AnywAys, it was about waist hi with occasional bigger... the wind switched more north so it was choppy a bit. Some fun lefts... but not as good as this morning. It was perfect lefts this morning
Yesterday evening was bombing right before dark it tried to clean up nice...caught a few. But, this morning was epic. Not in the 'bro it was so epic' sense but just epic for me. It has been awhile since I have paddled out in over head surf solo before sunrise. It was really amazing to catch a few waves right at day break today. Buddy showed up later but that first 45 minutes was awesome. Good day of surf and it started with a true DP.
^^ LOL, Ben Gravy has ruined east coast. F***ing Gravys. Now that Barney is dead a new kook has arised.
It was going all right this morning for the first 25 minutes. Chest high or so. That is until I caught one wrong, rode a closeout over the falls, and cracked up the nose of my longboard. Got my dumb old ass kook-slammed...
i had to get in this morning after seeing the cams yesterday and everybody up north getting sic rides past couple days. Small bump bringing some chop. took the LB out for some knee to thi hi. prolly gonna be some waist hi's during the incoming hi tides and rite spots, but i'm gone this wknd. trying to get back monday for an evening session
I was out from noon until 3. I worked that area between the rocks and that tent or whatever that's on the other side of surfer's end where the lifeguard stands start again. When that big rip opened up in the middle I cheated more towards that tent area.
yesterday's leftovers on Delmarva...about half the size of Wednesday, but really clean with the wsw winds.
Pretty fun this morning. Chest / Shoulder high with a few pushing Head high. I rode the M-80, got a handful of waves before work. Just me and a couple other dudes out there. It was a little deep coming off high tide so it was slow at first but it got really fun right as I had to go to work. I'm happy though.
Surfed again this morning - chest to shoulders, few head highs, off shores. But now wind is up higher blowing down the remaining swell and I am glad for that. I am pooped,and need the rest, so I will nap in a few minutes while youz guys work to pay my Social Security fund. Thank you and go screw yourselves......assholes. hahahahahaha!!!!
Yeah man, I think that even though it was smaller yesterday, it worked better at my spot. I caught more waves yesterday in two different go outs then I have in a long time. Crowd was light, mostly old heads on LBs and fishes. Great vibe. Like Mitchell said in a earlier post, my sand bar is different even from the Gert swell of two weeks ago. It's almost too shallow at low tide for a swell over thigh high. Still long lefts. I just have to adjust my timing by tide to get out more at mid high tide when we have a nice pulse in the water. Damn, I love this time of year.
last night and hour before dark...love this time to surf, little crowd but surf was much smaller...very clean. All in all, great day.
This morning in Jupiter at a very popular spot, the swell hit. It was meh south but the peak was nice, maybe shoulder to head high peaks, a good crowd, but sets and sectiony peaks so it kept the crowd spread out,lots of waves to go around. The water was clear blue, so the waves would peak up like sparkling translucent warbaling skate board ramps. There was a south breeze on the north swell, so it was bouncy, and real fun. Lots of lip smacking, good steep drops, some pretty connected rights, fun crowd. The funny thing was when I got there, I ran into an old local in the parking lot, he told me I couldn't surf here, but he was joking and was too injured to paddle out. Then when I went to paddle out, an old Singer Island local and his wife were resting in the shade, and as I walked down to the water I heard heyhey heyhey! I turned around, my leashe had rusted off at the swivel. It had been wrapped around the rocket fish and garaged since June. I know, I should have performed better leashe reconne. Lucky for me my buddy's wife lent me her leash (sounds kinky LOL). She was too tired to go back out, and the waves were getting too big for her. Life is goode.
^ Sounds like a fun sesh Surfdog. Many times you hath described your waves as translucent blue skateboard ramps and many times I read about them I hath become envious. Theres nothing like clear blue waters.