Busted up the nose of my Frierson long board on a chest high, over the falls, close out last week. Timed it wrong and thought I was going to fall into my board and/or it was going to hit me. Got out yesterday around noon time off Dam Neck using a shorter much lighter and faster board. Took awhile getting dialed in. But had to get back to work, so I was only out for an hour.
Surfed for a few hours today, it wasn't bad. A little choppy at times. About waist high, some chest and shoulder sets, but a bit choppy when they got that high. Was considering going up the road to Belmar, but I forgot they're having the Belmar Pro there this whole weekend. I don't know if I'm just getting old, but I was freezing tonight in trunks. The water is still warm enough, but the air has been cooling down into the low 60's by the early evening hours this week. Most others had on a Spring suite or were back in their 3/2. Hope to enjoy some more this weekend, then it's back to work for 800 hours a week starting Monday! Until about middle of April, with a few breaks in between for holidays, like a 3 day break around Christmas and about 5 or 6 days off in February!
Sounds like Irma lit up the whole east coast even all the way up here in NH (unusual for a storm that far away). Chest high and clean *all* day with some plus sets. surfed, surfed, then surfed some more.
Another fun day today. Fall-like blue skies, but the size dropped some since Friday. Vince Boulanger on one this afternoon. He said they got good waves Friday at the Belmar Pro but he was eliminated. I wasn't surfing anywhere near 100%....Guided by Voices played a free show at the Dogfish in Rehoboth....long long night.
Surfed my nut sack off the past two days. My spot was working better closer to high tide. Longer rides. Yesterday I got shacked more than I have in NJ in a long time. Didn't make it out of most. It was close out city as the tide dropped. Went back out at dinner time yesterday and it was perfect. This morning more of the same. I'm a tired sunburned mess. I earned my bourbon and my doobie. I hope all our Florida brethren make out OK. Hang in there. Check in when you can gents and Betty.
Yesterday was good a day on Cape, especially DP. Scored some nice set waves. Today got funky/choppy, chunky as the wind switched to the north, which is typically kills it. Still there was swell and waves were scored. Yesterday some nice size sets rolled in shoulder+, maybe more. Here's a shot of an empty wave right before I suite-ed up: And I echo CyC's sentiments. Thoughts and prayers are with you. Be wise, safe, and vigilant and keep us posted of your well being.
Yesterday northern ocean county wasnt epic but it sure as heck was a lot of fun. Offshore winds all day..... Fair share of closeouts, but definetly some solid makeable tubes!!!
Second Beach was an absolute zoo this afternoon. I checked my secret reef first. One dude on a LB out, but it looked just like Gert...not working despite what the buoys showed. Having learned my lesson, especially around high tide, I cut my losses and drove to Second Beach. On my way out I passed at least 3 dudes suiting up, so definitely the right call as that reef couldn't handle 4 people on a barely working inconsistent swell. Got to Surfer's End and it was simply insane. I thought it was 4th of July or something, man alive there were so many surfers. I drove down a ways and it was way less crowded, albeit a foot or two smaller. Still, I managed to find a peak more or less to myself and surfed my guts out. Got a ton of fun ones. One dude tried to red sleeve me, but I surfed around him and it was all good. But I can't believe how many beginners, cluelessers, and simply shorebreak floatsam were out there today. About 5 hours in the water today, 3 hours yesterday. I'm starting to feel like eatswell!
Surfed Cape May for a few hours tonight. Good times like always! Chest high and clean in Cape May is always a good time.
Really good surf yesterday for the Dean Randazzo Surf For A Cause contest. The best surf in Margate, NJ I've ever seen. My 12 year old was charging.
Seaweed wasn't too bad yesterday away from surfers end but today was nasty all over. Had a nice littl session today, lots of little cover ups. But good lord when are the knuckleheads going to go home for the season? I'm almost looking forward to it getting really cold to thin out the wanna-bes that truly just get in the way.
It's so flat here that I'm posting on SwellInfo. Hope you EC'ers are getting a ton from Jose's wandering.