who here has been surfing this week?

Not counting today, but previous 3 days had 5 sessions in nice shoulder overhead surf, with great shaped long walls, and all by myself for about 2 hours each session. All the other morons were all bunched up ramming into each other, fighting, being aggro....but me?? alone, head high wavs, steep, glassy, choice of right or left.
I really believe the new generation of surfers are morons. And that does mean 99% of youz guys, sorry to say...
Oh well, go fvck yourselves.....
hahahahahaha!!!!

 

You should see the color corrected raw file and the full sequence..........

 

I like how tight he is to the wave.

 

Pulled up the Second Beach today. Nobody out and it looked flat as a lake. But I decided to give it a few minutes and sure enough this beautiful little waist high wave just A-framed like a gem...perfect conditions, light offshore to no-wind, cloudless 80 degrees, and did I say nobody out?

I decided to give it a go. Another perfect wave came through as I was paddling out that I had to duck dive, so they were out there. But then I proceeded to sit for about 20 minutes waiting for another set. It was like that. Super long lulls, but there were waves if you were really patient. The solo session didn't last very long, but everyone seemed to find their spot and so it wasn't a problem. One dude on a foamy paddles right up to me from the beach...I mean, the entire beach was empty so what are the odds? But then he was cool enough to say that it was his first time surfing, and if he got in the way or didn't follow proper etiquette to let him know. I really appreciated that.

So I got a handful of little peelers, nothing really noteworthy, but doggone it was a nice day and the fourth day in a row of surfing.

 

Yeah, that picture is definitely frame worthy. I've been surfing 26 years and don't have a picture like that of myself.

 

Here is the cliff notes version of the sequence. First part of the wave I was shooting into a horrendous glare. As he got down the line the light improved. This was a long ride and he was racing under the lip the whole way. Pretty ballsy ride for a 12 year old.

There are a half dozen more shots in the sequence. Shot from pretty far away with a 400mm lens.

 

Frame 5 from the top is epic.

 

Cool!!

 

That one will get framed for sure. I like how the angle gives the look that it is a water shot rather than taken from a football field away.

 

Evacuated up to Myrtle Beach Sunday night since it was higher ground and a buncha cheap high rise hotels on the water. Storm was brutal, and i haven't made it back to my Folly shack yet but we got 6" of water in the place. Before leaving Myrtle, i hopped in Garden City pier for some semi chop stomach hi waves. Another guy on the north end of the pier but that was it. Had a handful and left, was already planning on showing up to work late to get rid of some emails. Should be interesting this week with Jose and my place's smell. Def anticipating a lotta outdoor shower use

 

2 foot OH liners with 20 good surfers on the peak. Three wave sets made it a hassle, but I caught 5 waves in an hour, one of them a candidate for best wave of the year so far. A smooth 8 foot drop into a nice long backside left, it was breaking fast, then slow, then fast, so it required a few initial off the lips reos to gain speed, then a nice cutback to stay in the hook, then a speed run inside. No barrels. Maybe some shade Sunday/Monday with Jose raining tacos. On the way back up the beach some old dude gave me props, told me it's good to see an old guy get some. I'm thinking to my self, do I look that old, I don't feel it. Life is goode

 

Surfed last night. Tonight I shot some pics.

 

Nice pics ^^^^ CJ. Looks like great fun was had by all. I saw a couple groms get some really nice waves today. One kid, we call him Cannonball, he got a set wave easily DOH plus for him. His family trips down to CR have really paid off.

 

Late afternoon, early evening...super fun, only a few of us out, and OH on sets...surfed like crap but still fun...charge! Iam spent.

 

Got in immediately after a quick trip to work yesterday to knock out some email inbox. My roomie looked spent shop-vac'n the water out his room, but it was hi tide and it wasn't going down any time soon. waves were much bigger on folly compared to Garden City. They were shoulder to head hi, semi chop but a lotta power. current/wind was running strong to the north at the time, caught a few quick right handers but not a lotta time to catch a line. took a break, worked around the yard and inside the house. came back out that evening during low tide, had a great session on the longer 7'2" - brought out the shorty Perfection 6'4" but it wasn't catching. Was out till dusk, and it was a lot smoother and to get up on the wall. lotta rights, a few crappy lefts- i gotta get back into frontside with my lefts. Overall, great day despite the cleaning up til 10pm. This morning was clean, drained out from lo tide. SHould be fun this afternoon, but i'll be working and patiently waiting for this work week to wrap up. the wknd forecast is looking gooood

 

On Monday, after days of hurricane prep, the storm itself and then some clean up I needed to get to the beach. I knew there would be a wave of some sort but not sure what since all the local cams have been down since Irma. In addition my normal spots (state park) and back up spots (pier and its beach) were closed due to storm issues so we'd need to go to another beach I hadn't surfed before.


I convinced my wife to go and met my buddy and another friend at a town beach and found some semi-clean SE swell mixing with another swell or two with winds strong offshore. Water was a dirty turquoise color from being stirred up and refreshingly cool, maybe around 80-82. Felt so nice. Waves were funky but managed to get some short shorepound rides.


Tuesday morning we met up againe expecting some knee high surf since SwellInfo was calling for 1-2. Could hardly believe what we saw as we crossed the dune. There were half mile long head high plus liners breaking way outside coming from the ENE! Ho Lee Funk! Easy paddle out between the sets that came every ten minutes or so. Most waves were breaking faster than me (closeouts) but I'm very slow to my feet.


We could see it was breaking much better way up the beach near the pier so my buddy and I made the long walk to the restricted area. Nobody else was there and the waves were behaving much better. We both got some killer rides that we could take all the way to the sand. There was a lifeguard watching us and I thought he might rat us out but shortly a half dozen lifeguards joined us some riding rescue boarts.


Despite the great rides we got it was kinda frustrating cuz we could see our normal spot beyond the pier going off. Spoils, about 2 1/2 miles away, was going absolutely nuts. You could see the sets breaking there on the horizon. I know the rock reef would have been the place to be but we just couldn't get there. At least now I know to make the extra walk north rather than fart around on the crappy beach we started off at if we're in a similar situation. Always learning.


I went back to the beach later with my wife to cool off (still without power). The swell had dropped and was mostly breaking right on the sand. The wind had turned onshore and was adding a choppe to it. There were still a few guys surfing it but I contented myself with body surfing some shorepound while trying to avoid breaking my neck in the process. I had already gotten the best of the swell earlier.


I know head high groundswell might be ho-hum to many here but it is quite rare down here in the shadow. Making this even rarer was that this was surprise swell from Jose sneaking through the Providence Channel. Since I've only been surfing aboot four years I had never seen that channel swell before.


Life is suite.
I really feel sorry for people that don't surf.

 

super shallow glassy nugs this AM. looks like it will ease and then we will get the loop swell from jose.

 

surfed before work on the dead low tide this morning. Fun, but inconsistent waist to chest high clean a-frames coming in. Every wave had a left and right. Mellow crew of about 8 of us that were really doing a good job splitting every peak and communicating. I got a few really fun rippable lefts on the mini-simmons, it started to rain, i went to work happy. 45 minutes was all it took.

 

Super fun sesh out front this morning. Waist to shoulder. Nice power. New sandbars at WB!

Woulda called into work but I took Friday off already Luckily the boss doesn't mind if I'm a few minutes late, as long as my board is on top of the car. He gets it.

 

Finally got some salt water in my veins! I was getting cabin fever sitting at home. No more! Waves were chest - head high on the sets, with lulls in between. When it pulsed you could see them rolling in from way outside. The sand bars were beat up pretty good so it was a little tricky getting the right wave but when it all lined up it was a blast.

I caught mostly lefts / frontside on the 6'4" Flashback Fish, easy entry, pump pump pump for speed, drop down for a big bottom turn and then vertical for a snap off the lip or arching top turn depending on the wave. On the inside the wave jacked up for a speed run till it closed out. Many ended in a proper kick out, some ended in punching through the back or straightened out as it detonated behind me. One or two smashed me in shallow water.

Sad to see all turtle eggs on the beach and I saw a few dead baby turtles floating in the lineup while fish were feeding on them. The parking lot was still closed from the storm so I parked on the side of the road and walked. No big deal. I was the only person in the water for a little while but with every wave I caught, a new face showed up. Once 5 new faces joined me I was done with that peak and paddled a 1/4 mile down the beach to another peak all by myself again.

I caught a few gems down there. Then it went quiet for a bit and didn't catch a wave for a while. Finally a meaty one came right to me as two more morons paddled out by me. I dropped in right from the peak and went for the best ride of the session. Big bottom turn right after dropping in, top turn, bottom turn, pump pump pump to beat the section and rode almost to the sand where it closed out in shallow water. I ended the session on that note. Ahhhhh....