who here has been surfing this week?

got some inconsistent 2-3' yesterday, fun on the libtech Lost RNF-redo as a twinnie. This summer has just sucked for HI. pffft.

 

Irma and the storm in front of her changed the shape of all our breaks....pushed a lot of sand up into the dunes. That long period swell is working here, waist high with occasional chest hi. No competing swells. Better stuff at lo tide now, used to be the opposite. We had an actual lineup today in MB. A lot of talent out on the water that usually goes somewhere else to catch waves. Great weather and temps. This was just a warmup for tomorrow, predicted 4-6 ft.

 

today wasn't the cleanest but it was rip able . Shoulder to head high long drawn out lefts, light winds . Maybe 13 people on the spot . Caught 4 waves , 3 of the 4 made it all the way to the shore break . Could have been better if i went to the truck and grabbed a different board tho .
Took out a 5'5 lib mayhem pj . Drop in straight for drawn out bottom turn . Go to set that toeside rail to turn into the face . That board felt like a skate board going down a hill with loose trucks barely holding on. That raised v at the back of the tail really stands out . Had to feather those bottom turns . Fat rails made it hard to dig it in to get aggressive on turns . Real skatey on waves that you harness the wave power more then generating speed .
Still stoke got a few , but mad at me self for not going back to the truck . PJ is an awesome groveler , but not so good in perky waves .
And is it just me ? that feeling when you duck dive a sizable wave and it passes over top of you . I want say its a weightless feeling . Don't know how to describe that exactly . But , thats in the top 20 list of love of surfing for me .

 

This is a recording...more of the same...I think iam done until tues/Wednesday, tho thinking about going to the W on Monday if blowing hard NE....what a BIZZARE future storm model run for both gfs and European. Sure it will change but crazy to think what could occur.

 

the sandbars are good. we scored it for several hours last weekend with the irma swell and N winds. problem is the tides aren't ideal Monday.

 

I love the feeling of a well executed duck dive on a long period swell. The mini tsunami going over you as you patiently wait to angle back up, then voila, getting spit out the back with a bit of forward momentum. It's magic.

 

So I toyed around today with a pack of groms, in long period swell torn apart by the wind, only waist high plus on sets, then dying out as the tide got fat, so it was time to roll around in the shore pound for a while. The kids were totally amped, it was cool just soaking up the vibe.

There was so much weed in the water, I flashed back to the 70s.

I ended up going for a paddle against the wind, then a nice drift back. Tomorrow morning should be good.

 

Good one

 

I'll be here all day hahaha

 

it is pretty schweete having a wave roll over u,its like time stops.i just got back from da beach lol,so peaceful this time of year.its jumping right now in sea bright,dont know whats going on but a ton of traffic and people everywhere lol.wasnt like that on the beach

 

Bro, I put the white vinegar in both ears this evening before dinner twice, it was cool listening to all the snap crackle pop. Maybe some rubbing alcohol before beddie bye. The water is gnarly, and I went body surfing today so its all in there. Gotta remember that stuff, can't afford to miss work.

 

I have 13 hours of daylight. Iam sure I can find a window.

 

Not me. I've been working 13-14 hours a day all week. Don't know when I'll get a day off again. Maybe Thursday. It will be spent making up a small part of this massive sleep deficit that I've been racking up. This is the trade off for 4+ straight months off every year.

Surf a few for me!

 

Hadn't been here in a few weeks but i gotta come back for this thread. What a great run of swell we've had!

Last Saturday was big. HH with a few OH sets. Surfed my "big" wave spot. It's deeper and handles the energy better from these long period swells. But at low tide its just as shallow as other spots. Don't really get the reasoning or dynamics of it but it works. Anyway, sat was awesome. Fright train lefts. Stiff offshore breeze kept them open. Tons of barrels. It was a get down the line fast and try and get barreled kind of day. The wind really picked up after a few hours, when the tide filled, which ended my sesh. Was on the 5'8 and just didn't have the umph to get in them.

Sunday i surfed the same spot. A little smaller. Mostly shoulder high with a few HH sets early. Rode the bonzer. Great choice. Pretty similar to sat but with a bit more open face. As the tide filled one little spot started producing a nice right which is always a treat here. Again, the tide and wind killed it after a few hours.

Tuesday was about chest high with long long long long lefts. It was like a smaller east coast left version of jbay.

Yesterday. Still surfing the same spot. Chest/shoulder high early and back on the 5'8. Really playful wave but a bit wonky. The peak was moving all over. You'd be lined up prefect and start paddling just to see the peak shift over as your getting your last few paddles and popping up. As the tide dropped there were a few little barrels to be had then it just got dumpy. I decided to end the sesh and save the energy for today.

Today was arguably one of the best days of the year. Not the biggest. Gert early was bigger. But still HH-OH. A few closeouts but a ton of makeable looong lefts. This spot is so good on big days. It had a peak that was steeper and would barrel, then another peak next to it that had a bit more open face. Every so often you'd get a wave that would connect the two peaks offering a barrel with a open face after. So good. Got one of the best barrels of my life. Got a ton of long multiple turn open face lefts. Boards were snapped (not mine). As the tide dropped i was afraid it'd get closeouty but it actually held. So amped.

This season isn't anything epic or special. That season 3 years (i think) ago was amazing, then the past two seasons have been terrible. I'm so happy this year the Atlantic is producing. The best part is that there's constantly at least one storm to keep an eye on. Even now, jose is just starting and there's two more behind it. To early to tell if it'll pan out but at least we got somthing to watch.

Hope the rest of you have been getting yours!

 

^ Suite.

Surfed 3 hours at Second Beach on the new Merrick yesterday, but didn't get many good waves. Super crowded, like stupidly crowded, and plenty of swimmers despite the fog and ridiculous seaweed.

I have completely screwed up my ear, so I'm going to sit it out today, at least this morning. I might check the reef later, but probably not. Bummer.

 

that's the story of my life except I don't get any months off.14hrs is a lot,i don't work that much but 10-12 hrs a day plus Saturday is the norm.and that's why I don't do dawn patrols lol.i wake up everyday 4 am and get 1 day to sleep I aint waking up 6 in the morning on my only day off.the waves will still be there when I get up

 

surfed 2nd Beach for about 4 hours today. It was crowded and steep at the surfer end so I went to the east end and it was uncrowded and fine. Glassy for most the morning but started to get choppy towards the end. So great have 400% more beach to surf on. Water warm enough to trunk it but some people were in hooded suites which I can't understand. I was on the hot side of warm in a spring suite. Seaweed still problematic.

You could see the off-shore slab and the outer reefs working. I couldn't tell if anyone was out there as it was pretty hazy. Drove by 1st Beach and it looked pretty fun also.

 

^ Sorry I missed you there today. First beach looks like it's been firing all day so I can imagine how 2nd beach was. The seaweed is ridiculous, though.

 

It was a tale of three sessions. The first, glassy but high tide and whumping on the beach, I slept thru.

The second, with some good breeze out of the north mid morning was when I paddled out, at a local spot. No one out for 400 yards in either direction but one bubba in the shore pound. I walked up the beach a ways where it was grabbing bottom a bit past the shorebreak. Brown dirty water but beautiful blue skies, a hint of autumn in the air with the brisk north breeze. Lots of bait jumping and pelicans scooping them up.

Jose swell abooot waist to stomach high and barreling in the shorie. Got a few nice backhand cover ups in a deep crouch, all ending in catastophy. Got a few open faces with turns and a couple cutties. Then the wind kicked in.

The third session was a drift fest, a bunch of locals and groms showed up, it got real wonky, I got a couple more grab rails to shorepound sections and called it a day. Life is goode.

PS - the bubba I saw when I paddled out snapped the nose of his CI Al Merrick in a grotesque angle, I didn't say anything to him, what can you say?

 

It looked like some SUP guys were at Sakonnet for while but there wasn't anyone out there when I walked out to the point post surf. I think SUP because they seemed to be upright too much to be surfers. That's a big ass rock in the middle of that break. Hard pass for me - way above my pay grade.