who here has been surfing this week?

Noodle arms, sunburn, and broken commitments pretty much sums up my last 2 weeks. Feels great

 

I got it good this morning....all lefts, glassy conditions for a couple of hours. Tried out a new 6'1" swallow tail that i shaped for waves exactly like this and loved the way it felt.

 

I had take off a couple days due to family, work and life. Good to paddle out this morning. I found me a spot away from the herds, with a nice sandbar and a couple guys out. It's been very high tide in the morning, and the waves were kinda soft,leftovers from Jose. Nice sets aboot shoulder to HH withlong long rides would come along every 10 minutes.

The water is still brown, 8 inches of visibility. (Don't ask me how I measured LOL). I douched my ears againne with vinegar post session.

Funny, the lack of a crowd can sometimes be a negative, since there was no lineup, I kept finding myself a bit too far outside, until I decided to sit a bit more inside than what looked comfortable. But the waves were soft so you could take off as they jacked and broke without getting pitched, just nice drop ins to long lefts and a few steeper, shorter rights.

The last wave was really fun, it was going all backwashy with the dead high tide, and as I took off on a set, one came up the wave. I went over and into a very hollow section, had to backside grabrail left for a second, then stood up as the wave backwash jacked way over my head from behind. Like a tube but not heavy, with a brief elevator drop like feeling then back into the face for a bit to the beach. Life is goode.

 

Winds been north so I "worked" out the NY office the last week and a half... So many good sessions it's hard to keep track.
Mornings, afternoons, evenings. All offshoure. All firing. Turns, barrels, beatings. All have been had. Pulled in to a big closeout, snapped a board and had a long (rather diffucult) swimme but it was worth it.

If you live in this area and haven't surfed your couque off the last couple of weeks you blew it... Except for the fact that there is more swell coming and you can totally redeem yourself.

I do feel bad getting so much satisfaction out of storms when so many are suffering due to them. PR is in full on nightmare mode right now and we will get joy out of the same storm. Kind of effed up. I would gladly give up every session I've had the past month if it meant everyone would be whole, but it doesn't work that way.
Wayne works in mysterious ways.

 

Mitchell, those are gorgeous photos!

Sisurfdog and Valhalla, the florida boys are back nice writeups

 

I will obey adnim
I will obey adnim
I will obey adnim
I will obey adnim
I will obey adnim
I will obey adnim........................................

noice pics mitchell

 

...and there's no better feeling.

 

Anyone who lives along the coast would agree. A great run of swell. Conditions have not been all time, but an incredible run of swell, for sure.

And I never take it for granted. What I do take, though... living 3 blocks from the beach... is a huge risk. So I'm also very grateful this year having dodged a couple of bullets thus far... and it is, after all... only September.

 

Man! So shot. Been getting up and into work early every day. Busting my ass all day to get sh!t done so i can get out early and surf. The buddy i surfed with last night got out this morning. On my way home i texted him asking how it was. He wasn't thrilled. Said it was only slightly better than yesterday night. BUT the swell was picking back up and the high tide in the afternoon was slightly lower than the morning high tide. My brain started racing. Do i skip and go get the flu shot and tdap shot that i need to get to see my nephew who will be coming in a few days? Nah eff that i gotta go. Do i bring the mini? If its like yesterday that'd be the call.... but what if its good? Obvious choice is being two boards and check it but I'm just going. Decided on the step up. Extra volume just in case but still only 6'1 so can still surf aggressively if conditions call for it.

I was happily surprised. It was very good. Shoulder high. The deeper peak would start of a little slow, take one or two big pumps quick, then it walled up and sped up offering some barrels, then slowed again and peeled forever with plenty of open face. Some barrels to be had on that fast section but it was tricky and hard to get by it. So i started sitting on the end of the fast section, watched the crowd struggle to get around it, and got a ton of great ones. Depending where i sat there was still a quick barrel section to be had on the takeoff. So good man. I'm surfed out. I'd love to get out tomorrow but i think ill pass and save the stamina for the long weekend sessions. Who knows.

Oh and did i mention the sunset?

 

Surfed last couple days...waves, but unfortunately winds were not cooperative...but there was surf. My schedule Seemed to conflict with the winds.

 

sunsets make it worth it.

 

That's been my prob. Was going to go this evening, inlet looked fun. But, an officer was retiring and we were supposed to go to his retirement party... last minute, the woman says here stomach doesn't feel well and would I mind if we didn't go. UGH!! Mean while I'm watching the cams and now I'm feeling sick. Well, hopefully this weekend pans out because I'm going regardless!!

 

The last sunset of the summer, beautiful photo BassMon2!

 

Rest the arms and back today, boys. The September to Remember is about to continue in a big way. Good day to carb load, toke, and get in some naps. Cheap beer is also highly recommended.

On a more technical note, I chatted with a guy who had just gotten out had his 6'2 thruster set up with his longboard single fin in the rear. I didn’t ask its size but it was double the standard thruster fin with a more quarter moon shape. He said he was having trouble making bottom turns on big drops but didn’t want to go up in board size. He said it made a huge difference in lock him in on bottom turns and gave the board a ton of stability on the face. Anyone ever try this?

 

Almost Bonzeresque... in a way.

 

I'm gonna go out on a limb and say the fins nor board were the issue.

 

"Did anybody try this?" nyah, nyah ,nyah...
Who hasn't done that?? That was normal practice years ago before morons tried selling you different colored fins for different wave sizes, which you sound as if you bought into!! "The green ones work mo betta, like, like, dude".
"I will take 3 sets of green ones, 2 blue sets, and 6 red sets for radical turns." So gnarly tubular rad!!!
Asshole.

 

Barry I know you are like 125 years old and probably have a 12 foot bing 'short board' with a glassed on rudder and you cant get boners anymore and probably have really long eyebrow hairs and maybe even a few rouge hairs sticking out of the tip of your nose but that doesnt give you the right to assume that I am 125 years old too.

UPDATE: I just learned that old Kook Barry is right and the 2+1 fad was around for a while but not so popular anymore. YOU WIN THIS TIME BARRY YOU OLD KOOK WITH NO BONERS.

 

And I can surf a lot better than you can ever dream of........

 

Do you have a 12 foot Bing short board?