who here has been surfing this week?

Naw....Dewey Weber.

 

Stay close to the soul, Barry. And good luck up in NH shagging sheep.

 

Keep taking your Zyprexa....you sound calmer.

 

There was this dude, Big Wave Bob, aka Island Bob, who owned the Island Water Sports on Singer Island back in the day, and a snowboard shop up in Colorado. He rocked the biggest gnarliest eyebrows, like a mad sheepdog.
Thanks for the flashback RMsDN.

 

Sick clean up tonight. This run is starting to top anything I can remember outside of clouded teenage years in the 90s when I thought anything over waist high was epic.

 

So fun tonight.

 

Speaking of shortboards, I caught this little gem at Pea Island today.

 

Received a very generous day off and got to surf for 3 hours! It was blown out in quite a few spots. Finally found one that was pretty decent, and only 3 people were (including me and my best friend) were out just before dawn. The sets that were walking were about head high. The forecast wasn't as good as it was projected to be, when I looked at it last night.

Still a pretty good day and maybe my last trunking of the season! Water is probably upper 60's still, I think it's about 68. The air temps have been really warm. It was still 80 degrees around 8:00 tonight! Wish I didn't sleep so late and could have woke up earlier and been out for longer, but whatever! Like I said, a lot of places sucked and weren't working, so conditions might not have been so great.

 

Glad you got some dude!

 

yesterday, late pm session...finally got some cooperating winds. Fun...chest high on average.

 

More fun to be had today. Offshore around 10-15. 5.7ft @ 7 seconds. Tide filling in from mid/low. At first it was a sinus stomach/chest/shoulder high. A bit softer but not terribly so. Prefect for the mini. Long long lefts all the way to sand. Take off, get maybe 2 or 3 turns in, stick with it, then try and get barreled on the reform. It wasn't barreling but hey, i was still trying haha. After a bit the tide started getting on it. Had to paddle east to a diffrent peak. The old i surfed Thursday actually. Mostly mush but if you were patient a solid stomach high guy would come in and line up very nicley. Smallest day in 2 or 3 weeks but still a fun sesh. I feel myself starting to get spoiled

 

Glad you're scoring, Bass.

Yesterday was a glorious day for me. Got a solid afternoon sesh in southern Ocean County. The sun was out, water warm and waves were pumping lefts. Nothing too epic, but loads of fun. I switched between my shortround and dreamcatcher. It was barreling pretty hard at the first spot I was surfing and the dc held a nice line with the rounded pin. My buddy and I were getting shacked off our arses. Just one of those days. My girly was out scoring pics for us too. Should be able to upload some later for uze guys.

Second sesh was cool too. I took my gf out on her wavestorm for a bit. It was a bit heavy for her so she stuck with some white wash rides. I ended up going back out on my shortround, but switched the tri for a quad. All I have to say about that is wow. The thing was flying down the line. Making sections and turning was so much more fluid. I won't go back to tris on that board now.

Waiting for my car service to get done and then off agayne I will go. Stoked.

 

^ So awesome, man. Great story.

I'm out of the water today. I might (might) sneak in a session tomorrow. But more likely I'll follow doctor's orders and wait till Monday. I've got some ear plugs coming, which should help.

 

Went Thursday, waves were 4 - 5 ft

 

Nice kan! I was never a fan of quads on my more modern style SBs, but that experimentation is awesome. Glad you liked it.

Tomorrow's looking good. Buoys up to 4+ @ 13 seconds. Yeeeeew

 

Delmarva glassed off around 5 this afternoon and lumpy chest high a-frames were rolling in on the low incoming from 5-7 p.m..

Water is ridiculously warm....easily mid 70s+ and air temps were over 80....trunked it and was as warm as Ive been all summer. Skatepark type waves saves that were a blast on the Stretch RNF quad. So surfed out.....the past 4 weeks have been an amazing run.

 

Ive had the same experience. My shortboard for the past 10 years has been a 6'1" x 19 3/4" x 2 7/16" tri fin swallow tail. Ive always liked it, but recently shaped myself a copy of that board and put in 5 fin boxes. I tried to put the four boxes similar to the quad fishes Ive come to like. I rode the board the other morning in clean shoulder high conditions and really dug the short board with the quad setup. It felt faster going down the line and smoother through turns.

 

today in wrightsville i rode the longboard in the morning then the fish after lunch.

 

+1. I am surfed out. Didnt even surf this afternoon. Not much else to say.

 

Mid/late afternoon...same as yesterday, but more texture, still not bad. More swell continues.