who here has been surfing this week?

Dude you've been getting lots of water time lately, good for you!

 

Cape Point yesterday.

 

Another one.



Some of the biggest surf I've ridden in a long time.

 

Been good, tho my timing wasn't perfect with the winds.

However, early am today, different story. Thought about going in town but checked my normal spot, it was firing, really good with 2 competing swells. Offshore, chest average, tho many OH. After a couple hours, winds starting getting on it, chopped it up slightly. Left. That may be it for a while because winds may be an issue, but may sneak to my sheltered spot if the winds really start to blow. Good times.

 

Nice, we're about to go on a week long swell run, probably starting tomorrow provided wind cooperates. Maybe well overhead - DOH sets. If not, Tues / Wed will be big and beautiful. Wind last week has been less than ideal so it'll be nice to have some offshores again. Hope sandbars are better than they've been.

 

Yup, just did some math and Hurricane LEE should gives us a viable swell for Friday, I hope.
Even though far away, swells do get here.....eventually.
Hope all is well with youz guys in Florida.

 

here in jersey the swells been going on for 3 weeks now,never dropping below 4ft,but the winds have been terrible,only a few decent days out of the past weeks.i know somewhere tho,probably new York theyr getting the offshore winds with the swell so its probably been pumping there for 3 weeks.this is the most active I have ever seen the ocean here in my entire life,it just doesn't stop.only thing I could hope for are some west winds instead of this northeast guts

 

I did get out this morning. On entering water, the street lights were just turned off. As expected all by myself at that time. Waves were waist high, a few chests. As I do want to still go to PR in early December, I took my Byrne out to reacquaint myself with the board. Wrong board for todays waves, but got familiar with it after a couple of hours. But holy ****, was I tired after using it.
Age is starting to wear me down. May be time soon to take up extreme cooking or downhill knitting??

 

Glad to hear everyone is scoring some surf. What a great run we've had, since mid August, this is what it must feel like to live in California, except the water is warm. I'm taking today off to do some stretching, watch football, and get ready for Maria swell and offshores for four days.

Yesterday I went out, in high tide windchurled chest to shoulder high swell, a few head high plus drops. Very bouncy, hard to get a good face, got munched on the first attempt. Finally made a few waves down the ragged jumbly faces, got my toe wrapped up again! in my old thin leash. Bought a new 7' Da Kine yesterday, too thik to slide between toes so easily.

It was freaky, I had to grab the leash right against the tail to keep my toe from getting severed by the pull of the wave, while I was underwater after eating it at the end of the ride. And it took me a few tries to get it unwound,being calm the whole time, but running out of air. Finally popped up thinking, **** this pos leash, this almost happened to me the last go out too.

The water is still horrible with them letting all the water out of Lake O, but it was a beautiful day, saw a buddy out there, only a small well behaved crowd. Hopefully being Monday tomorrow with work and school, and lots of waves in the sets, the crowds won't be an issue.

12 second swell, could be closey outish with the sand all scrambled up. I know a couple reefs that will be firing!

 

RI was fun this morning but I took a long time to get the hang of the sets. Lot of close outs. Less seaweed than last weekend.

Enjoyed the company of a kayaker with full helmet and nose clip just paddling around with everyone else. Wait, no I didn't enjoy that. Also saw an unhelmeted kayaker in the densely populated 'surfer' end of the beach. Honestly, I had a paddle and a kayak, I'd go out to the reefs but then I can't understand these people. At all. I think a good rule of thumb is if you need to wear protective headgear in the surf because of what you are doing then you shouldn't anywhere near other people.

I'm out of shape so am not up for it but I don't know why people aren't out at Sakonet. Looks like it was firing again but empty.

 

Still pretty clean...hope it stays that way...after dinner sesh coming.

 

Cape point, cape hatteras is breaking good? Do tell!

 

that's the same pic as the other one. turn the camera around next time.

 

Cep said it.... and he's right. NY has been firing for weeks now. Winds were only any issue on a few rare days. Today.... oh man. Went back to my "big" wave spot. Light offshores. Low tide early. Buoy was at 4.7ft@14 seconds. Set waves were HH-1ft OH. It wasn't exactly dumpy or closeouty, but was racey and sectiony. First few waves was just a big steep drop, pocket ride (didn't get any barrels), then straighten out before the rest of the wave closed. Dudes.... even after straightening out, riding white water for things to settle, then jumping off....still got freaking rag dolled. Allot of power out there.

Then things got a little weird. Sets were smaller, lots of closeouts, rights were randomly working. Very strange. Then it TURNED ON! This spot is so amazing. It needs a bigger wave, and at the right tide its like a point break. Just prefect peeling waves. Well over 100 yards. The sets got back to that HH-OH range. Tide filled in enough to produce perfection. I caught myself the best wave of the past few weeks today. Took off, got a few pumps in, faded high and leaned into a BIG ARCHING cutback..... It felt like i was on rail forever. As i came around i saw perfection. Wasn't hallow. Just a big foam ball to smack. Hit it and as i rebounded it dropped me right into the pocket of a steep wall that raced to the sand. Multiple top turns on the inside section. So much open face on the outside, i don't think i ever experienced a wave that perfect. Iv said it here before, but I'd prefer a big open face over barrels any day. These waves were more slopey but still had so much power and speed. Iv never been able to pull off such big arcs. Absolute perfection in my mind. Waves like that continued for the rest of the session.

Unfortunately i had to call it. It was so hard to get out, but my arms were shot. It's one of the drawbacks to this great spot on these bigger swells. It breaks so far out, it's do much paddling. After over 3 hours i just couldn't keep going.

So amped. Its been bigger in the past few weeks. But i hadn't had it as perfect as it was today with the big size. It wasn't even the size, just the power. So shot. So amped. So surfed out. The next few days actually look to be to big for the tide. I think it'll be VAS conditions. I'm ok with that. I need some major rest. By the later half of the week things are looking good again.

Iv lost so much weight hahaha. Time to stuff myself

 

Glad you got it primo.

 

This evening...much smaller...wouldnt expect it, kinda weird but still fun.

 

I saw it this evening- I was suprised as well... I thought it was forecast to build throughout the day?!?

Maybe tomorrow...

Got a few fun ones this morning... nice and clean for a change... but the lefts of the previous days where much longer rides.. either way- I can't believe we have had waves for this long!! It's almost like every day in September!

 

I surfed for almost 4 hours today and today was probably the crappiest the waves have been in awhile. Too deep and wonky winds at high tide, smaller but cleaner around low. Still, it was like mid July with the water and the heat. It was a really good day. Surfing is fun.
Plus I got home and found out some pimply-faced rookie practice squad kicker booted a 61 yard field goal at the gun to give the Eagles the win over the Giants. I coulda gone to the game but I'd rather surf than sit there with a bunch of drunken louts. Trust me, I used to be one.

 

Same where I was tonight, a bit smaller than Saturday evening but still fun rippable sets, and glassed off for the last two hours of daylight. Trunking it and staying warm into darkness in the last week of September is a nice touch.

 

My nephews got to enjoy some surf this weekend, while I worked.

It was a really warm weekend. The ocean temp apparently even went back up another two degrees. I can still go out in trunks by the 1st of October, as long as the air temps are also still fairly warm.