who here has been surfing this week?

Couple sick ones of myself and other buoys last Fri.

 

^color makes you surf faster

 

Great photos.

I recall the various wave height debates on the board - how high would people call the wave in photo # 2?

6+?
head high?

 

2-3 ft. swell
shoulder high--he is leaning in to wave.

 

That day was chest to head high where I was out. Maybe some larger set waves. That second wave is a shoulder to head high wave, depending on when he dropped in and where he ended up.

 

It was big and pulsing yesterday, breaking out past the end of the pier on sets, lots of closeouts and short rides to a foamy pit. Easily 8 - 10 foot faces, bigger drops here and there. All in all a struggle.

Today I went out all morning at my local, the sandbars were set up, a head high swell with long old man lulls made it fun and manageable. No wind. Long lefts, not too steep, but smooth and rippable. Got a couple cutbacks, one inside barrel no makee outee.

Only a lifeguard, me and a bunch of bait in the lineup all morning. Water still yuck, I've got an appointment with my ENT for next week to suck some sand out of my ears. Life is goode.

 

And as mentioned by a few guys up north yes, it's been wonky overall down here too, with crowds, tide and wind conspiring against. Properre sand recon, the coconut wireless, and local knowledge have gotten me some good sessions, but I've had a couple stinkers too lately. Once way too high tide, hardly breaking even though head high, yesterday bomb closeouts and seven waves on the head to get back out. Still better than lawn and debris clean up and shutter removal. Today was the tits.

 

Yea... If you called it head high I wouldn't argue. A day like that in general... based on those three or four pics... I'd call chest-to-shoulder range with some head high sets. But who cares... there's a swell, and it's clean!

Today it jumped up, for sure. Overhead on set, and at least breaking down the line... sorta. Onshore wind was making it kind of funky, but there were some legit bombs.

 

Did you deck her?

 

Got out yesterday for a few hours, but once again, made the completely wrong call on what reef to hit. Ruggles was probably amazing.

Sat out today. Once again I've managed to get myself good and sick, so I sacrificed today to hopefully get better so I can hit it tomorrow through the end of this swell. I'm off work, so I figured it would be best to take one for the team today in the hopes that I can gorge myself tomorrow.

Besides, the First Beach cam look like it simply cannot handle the swell. Not sure what Second Beach looks like, but from the various cams I'm guessing it's a rough day out there. The guys on the Matunuk cam look like they're really struggling.

 

Seems harsh to punch a little girl after she almost drowned TBH

 

Time for the jetboart, Batman!

P.S. hope you feel mo' better tomorrow

 

havnt been in the water since Saturday

curious as to right now the forecast is 8-10' with northeast winds,onshore and I checked a few cams expecting victory at sea like conditions and its just choppy with 3 footers.

I was never too big into the hurricane swells I know a lot more about noreasters,being this year we had like 3 or 4 storms already I was wondering how come its not like winter with vic at sea like conditions

 

next few days look promising tho,hopefully

 

Some fun waves today, chest - head with overhead sets, semi-clean - clean conditions. Met up with 4 of my friends and had the place pretty much all to ourself. I rode the fish, it was good on the set waves, which I waited patiently for. Good times with good friends.

 

Bro, that's like the biggest crowd you ever surf in?

 

Yeah dude, I don't mess with crowds, I have a consistent spot that stays mostly empty year round with a few days being the exception.

 

I have a similar spot, with the triangulation for small medium and large swells all dialed in. It was butter today. Butter and bait. Bait and butter. Baitbutter. Butterbait. Good night gents

 

Lol Nice little ramble, this new herb has me rambling a bit myself.

 

Me, myself, and I......
Any more than that and I am out!!