who here has been surfing this week?

About 4 years ago dislocated my shoulder. Ortho said I didn't tear my labrum. Hence I was lucky because he said 80 percent do when dislocation occurs. Did PT religiously and haven't had any issues since; however, I still do the PT exercises 3-4 days a week to this day.

 

Wonderful lyrical write up Peajay

 

Surfed varying amounts of chop at Nantasket. Fun enough, still warm enough for a springsuite.

 

I destroyed my shoulder years ago, torn to **** and constantly popped out and then back in.

However, no surgery or pt.

Initial rest. Then surfing. Then pushups and surfing.

Now. Been at least 15 years with zero popouts and zero pain.

I paddle as much as anyone at this here beachbreak.

Whast i say here is, we are all unique, every shoulder condition is, too, or, to each its own.

Shoulder surgery is to paddling a real dangerous gamble.

My wife is 30+ years in the best orthopedic surgery, and says, unless you absolutely need it, do not get surgery.

Shoulders are not a high-percentage successful surgery, in general.

If you are in constant pain and need pain med is a different story.

Mine healed over time and is good as new, no surgery, just paddling, swimming, pushups.

 

Thanks, this all I did for my other shoulder and it's as good as new when it used to be as bad as the one that's messed up now. I think I need to do more push ups to strengthen the chest more to hold my shoulder tighter.

 

Was planning on going this morning until i saw the wind forecast last night. Had a feeling when i woke up it would be offshore instead of onshore. But ended up passing out on the couch without setting an alarm. Woke up suddenly at 4 in the morning. Quick check before getting into bed. It's offshore! Set an alarm and grab an extra hour and a half sleep.

Long story short, it was crap and i went back home haha. If i was surf deprived i would of gone. It was rideable. But just didn't look worth it, especially after the great run we've had. I do feel better at least checking out though. No wondering if i missed out or not. Maybe tomorrow.

 

I did some shooting on Thursday. Got several epic sequences. This is part of one of them. Brian Liess going deep in Ocean City.

 

How the labrum tears has a lot to do with whether surgery is needed. If your shoulder is popping in and out constantly, I think we're talking about a different kind of condition. My experiences have been when the shoulder pops out, and you can't just pop it back in. We're talking about an ortho trying to manipulate it for 10-15 minutes, then giving up... upping the muscle relaxers... then going at it again for another 19 minutes until it eventually goes back in.

So you're absolutely right when you say each condition is different, and will require a different treatment. The ortho I was talking to was the one who gave me all the info I posted... based on the specific condition I was experiencing.

I've seen the same thing with knees... I know a guy who's knee popped in and out every month or so. Never got surgery. But I wonder what's going on in there... and what it will look like in 10 years.

 

Yesterday I just chilled, popped Aleeve, smoked copias amounts of ganj, and drank a bunch of beer. I went to bed feeling great, no pain, just numb. Woke up and shoulder felt great so I just went out for 2hrs and paddled around on the LB. Swell in the water but mostly shorepound at my local right now so wasn't much of a session but felt good to be back in the water so soon.

 

All week I was read the SI surfing adventures and was excited that I had a driver and a support team to surf today on a day forecasted to be thigh to waist high, 12" interval clean waves.

It was better than predicted, occasional shoulder+ high waves rolled through. That first paddle out feels so delicious with the warm Florida ocean and the friendly lineup. The locals were pretty surfed out with the past week of excellent Maria waves. So, it was easy to score a wave.

I was able to surf long enough to catch 5 waves. (Three were just okay, the last was small but fun.). But, The 4th was amazing! It looked thigh high, so I paddled perfectly for it and came down the face for a nice left. "Hm" I thought, "that had quite a drop, maybe it was actually waist high." Somehow I ended up in a rip which ended the ride. So, It took a while to paddle to the beach to rest in the wheelchair.

When I clawed my way onto the beach, a local surf photographer came up and showed me on my wave. It was a head high wave! "I am back," I thought. "I can do the bigger waves again!"

My team is the real hero. A rag tag fleet of skilled and amazing locals who have my back. Without the team, surfing would no longer be possible.

 

Nice sequence CJ.

MD gave up the goods this morning. Actually one of the most enjoyable sessions of this whole run of surf. No crowds and my spot was barrel fest.

 

You da (wo)man, Betty. I don't know you personally but I hope all is well.

 

Yesterday very early am...small but still fun, waist average...wind really started to blow after a couple hours of surfing and decided to call it a day.

 

Charging it, Betty!!! You go, girl!

 

Was getting out about twice, at most three, times a week over the last two months. Usually short seshes before work or during lunch, so not quite enough to really stay in good surfing shape.
Saturday, I was at Croatan (VB) watching an annual surfing event or camp for special needs middle and high schoolers. Everyone was having a great time. Lots of stoke. Inspiring seeing not only the participants but the volunteers, friends and family helping out.

 

LBNY was fun but a little small on Saturday morning. Had a few fun rights, two really long lefts and was able to keep the hair dry far longer that I expected. This time of the year is just so perfect - the beach is wide open and plenty of peaks to go around. I assume lots of people were surfed out by Saturday and didn't bother with the waist high stuff, which is ok by me.

Heading down to DE for the holiday weekend, so hoping IRI can catch a little pulse!

 

Bump to get thread back to page 1 since some ass hat is clogging the forum with dog ****.

 

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Isn't it funny that two months ago I would have looked at thigh to waist high and been like, "cool, I'll get some on the fish." Now, after the past 6 weeks, I look at it like 'Meh"
Hopefully Betty will bring us good news. I want more dambit!