who here has been surfing this week?

Hot as hades this past wknd. got pulled into some chop waters Friday evening, short period swell which didn't make things easier. strong undertow, had a couple rights that i struggled for since i was getting blown in the drift to the left. was coming off a nap, and didn't really get in the mood for that session. the heat continued to bear down on Saturday, made the ez decision to make it a beach day. sunrise session, an afternoon sessions followed by a couple evening sessions. sunrise was a good one, beach was dead and lineup was nowhere in sight on my break. ppl eventually showed up, but that was on my third time putting in. the 7'2 fish handled well the stomach hi, took a LB during the afternoon which got me past the double sand dune break to make a longer ride. evening sessions i brought out a beater board (cuz of the lo tide n couple beers i was chugging on the sidelines) and took out my roomie's lyle carlson beast of a board 9'9" i believe. able to catch rides on both tho it was only a couple. plenty of sun, didn't try Sunday but should be some rideables this week

 

nice

 

Today was similar to yesterday, but smaller and not as fun, but still nice to get wet before work.

 

Mitch was out there at the exact same time as you. If that was you in the
above pic, I saw you ripping!!

 

^^ You guys should get pizza and maybe give each other handies.

 

Mmmm pizza tugos and tuggos??

 

Fun sesh this evening. Had a solid hour of chest high waves before the hordes arrived. It was the most fun surfing backside I had in a while. Stayed off first peak and just kept snagging lined up waves all to myself. They were lining up pretty long too, lots of turns and cutties. Yearning for more lefts so I can practice frontside punts, which I’m terrible at, but getting somewhere. Looks like some bumps this week yeww.

 

^^^Yea... lots of lined up rights with the first true south swell we've had in a while.

 

The hordes might be locals who actually live there (go to school in the town or have a job locally) and work.

 

Just kidding on my last post. I do agree though. Last night and this morning the quality was much better than in September. The wind was offshore or light and the swell direction is perfect. I always say that wind swell always gives us better quality than ground swell.

 

Just got out of the water. Light offshore and chest high. Unfortunately the waves were gutless and didn't have good shape. At least I got wet. Water still bathtub warm.

 

That's what she said.

 

San Diegos been fun the past 4 days! finally got some waves over waist high. good times!

 

Gonna be there in November, where u surfin?

 

I live in OB. Usually the pier or the cliffs

 

Lol, we might know some of the same people. Cliffs and Jetty crew.

 

Another day of pure south swell, with the sandbars shifting right into place as the hours passed and the tide dropped. Small... but clean and punchy. Back to normal, I guess you could say.

But what blew my mind today was everything else that was happening above and below the waves. Crystal clear water, alive with fish... just teeming with shiny, silver-blue fish...the light bouncing off their shiny, shifting shapes everywhere you looked. And the water was warm... warmer than yesterday, or even this morning... so I'm told.

But the real trip was all the butterflies. Literally thousands of Monarchs, all day... just tripped me out. Made the day surreal...

 

steep south angle....some spots were kind of missing out and super small. Found a spot with a bit more size than elsewhere, but lots of water moving around = lots of lumpy, messy ones, and a few gems mixed in.

 

Glad to see so many still in just trunks. I was last week, too. The warm and way above seasonably average air temps certainly help.

Been working too much and haven't gotten out since last Thursday. Have off this Thursday, but conditions look to be quite ****ty.

 

Extremely fun longboard session in central moco yesterday afternoon. Only thigh to waist high but lining up perfectly, several 100+ yard rides all the way to the beach. Warm air, warm water, surfed in just boardshorts. Pretty chilly by the end but had no problem staying out for the better part of two hours and it's pretty crazy to be trunking it on october 10th. Or maybe not, I don't actually keep track of when the last neoprene-free session is in any given year, but I've been thinking for weeks now "this is probably my last session in just boardshorts" only to be proven wrong. Actually completely f*cking over the summer-like air temps at this point in the year -- I'm sick of running air conditioners and I'm ready for propere fall weather -- but it is nice for surfing purposes (especially since my 3/2 is falling apart and I don't currently have a 4/3, although these issues will be rectified soon). Great session all in all; I am stoked. Now a few days to rest up before heading to hawaii on saturday.