who here has been surfing this week?

Onshore wind this morning, wasn't very appealing so I walked the beach at low tide and removed hazards from the shoreline. Lots of bricks, big chunks of rock, wood, branches, random debri, all kinds of sh*t. I wonder how much more stuff is gonna wash up? The Islands got destroyed by 3 hurricanes in a row, I imagine its from that.

 

Starting to do that 6-8 month carousel of storm surf out here after a calm, dry Fall.

Found some shelter in the Harbor and shared lined up shoulder-to-head lefts with 3 other locals with glassy conditions.

The surfing season starts now

 

Was hoping for something tomorrow, but looks like nothing but a bunch of red!

Oh well, might have a chance to plug the small leak in the roof.

 

finally got a lil swell coming clean at Folly. went out at DP which is 7am and technically i'm supposed to be at work at 8, so that really sux until daylight savings comes around. so i had only a few on the LB, couple lefts and a floater and some crapsters. still surfing, but short n suite. thi to waist, should be bigger at hi tide which is noon for those losers that don't work the day shifts. oktober doesn't even compare to september at least down here

 

Water is already down to 54 here.

 

What up MIS?
1. Where did you hike?
2. The paddle in sucks. I surfed a number of windward reefs. My bud was a die hard crouch guy. I hated that paddle in...so spent at the end!

 

got in yesterday evening. it was some chop but the swell was there to get some rides. got in on one side of the pier, swept into the otherside which was going off better. went with my daily driver, 7'2" fisch, and managed it pretty well. could go either way and catch a line. pretty fun tho sushi was on my mind. thought the chop was just an evening thang, but turns out it stayed true this morning. hungover, didn't make it in. looking forward to tomorrow if possible and sunday of course. let this day ride by gently into thy night please lawd

 

Between last night and this morning, some really fun sessions. Glassy little rippers with sets in the chest to shoulder high range. This morning the swell felt like it had some east mixed into it, but just enough to pump out some screamer lefts. Managed to sneak out under the radar and scored it solo... which is pretty amazing considering its a weekend. Rode the fish...

Water was crystal clear and still warm... and again, alive with fish. This time I saw some Albies, which is cool. Just sitting there, looking down the beach, all of a sudden a few splashes... some baitfish jump out of the water... then boom! Albies flying all over the place. The whole thing lasted no more and 15 seconds... and then they were gone. Those things are stealthy...

 

Nice MIS! Love Kahana...such a beautiful place.

LB sounds like similar conditions this morning/ minus the Albies! Managed to get a couple of shacks on some chest-shoulder nugs. Glassy little pits! Pulled in pig dog on one and got the el roll0! Sucked over and body slammed...came up laughing uncontrollably that the little pit handled my ass!!!

 

The el rollo, from The Endless Summer?

 

I went out first thing this morning wind forecast was light winds semi glassy.....wrong, blown out east winds, chest high maybe bigger on the sets, just didn't wet my whistle...went back home. Around 11:00 had a storm come through, looked outside an no wind, surfed good waves from 11:00 to 3:00, hardly anyone out and any wave I wanted....6.5 out of 10 rating

 

Lol! Yea... I was thinking, "I'm gonna say I got drilled on the 'who's been surfing' thread"... 'cause I actually did, and more than once. Glad I wasn't alone!

 

Got up a little too late today, on my day off. Didn't look like anything great anyway and my nephews were up there earlier and said it was kind of blown out.

 

This past weekend was really fun. Saturday was bigger, clean on the face, but a bit lumpy as the winds died down but didnt really go offshore.

Sunday was just pristine bluebird conditions all day. Chest high+ on sets. Spent the whole day on the beach, took a few pics.

 

a couple morning sessions over the wknd. oktober has been terrible down here so far. had some knee to occ thi highs on saturday. current blew me across the pier on my LB. had some decent rides for the size, that carried me some distance. nothing truly epic. sunday morning was only smaller, really had to paddle and hope you caught it. less ppl in the water as you'd imagine. however, still in trunks so that's aight

 

I agree. What a fun weekend! Mitch's pictures say it all.

 

Got to the beach late Friday... Dusk, Sea birds, bait fish, just sharky feeling all around. Lost a contact lense on the paddle out. Talk about lack of depth perception... First time to lose one in 3 years. If I went back in it would of been too dark to surf so I stuck it out until well past sunset.

Only waves I could clearly identify were those nice, big black lines on the horizon that I knew were close outs. Took a beating and got lucky a couple of times.

Saturday was a pretty good day, but I had more fun surfing partially blind in the dark. It was the adrenaline...

 

Not sure DP...I have heard and used the term over the years. Is that where it came from?

 

IDK, it might of been. It reminded me of a scene from that flick.

 

Endless Summer....I believe it was the scene with black kids using their surfboards.