who here has been surfing this week?

This morning was fun. Phillipe passed over night and stirred things up. Then as he headed north, he cleaned things up. Chest high plus A frames with stiff offshores. Random peaks, no real order, so it kept everyone on their toes trying to be in position for the next mini barrel.

The water cleaned up, the air was crisp and in the low 70s, water temp 79. I blew the first wave, totally out powered it, bogged a rail, and went out the back. My mind was stuck on the last 6 weeks of more powerful surf. I decided to be more chill, more loose, and more gentle with the fish, and it went lots better and more connected from then on.

It was at my local spot, all the guys out. I snaked my bro on a good set wave, no hard feelings, that's how it is at that spot. Some 10 year old kid was killing it, he'll be running the show there in a few years. Life is goode.

 

I haven't been surfing at all, but I'm going to Canada for a week on business. Water is supposedly 63 degrees here still. I bet by the time I get back, it will be into the upper 50's. Forecast looks amazing for tomorrow, but I gotta be up and out before or shortly after sunrise.

I'm guessing this is Phillipe swell? I've been out of the loop lately!

 

I haven't been surfing at all, but I'm going to Canada for a week on business. Water is supposedly 63 degrees here still. I bet by the time I get back, it will be into the upper 50's. Forecast looks amazing for tomorrow, but I gotta be up and out before or shortly after sunrise.

I'm guessing this is Phillipe swell? I've been out of the loop lately!

 

And that’s why Forecaster Betty starts those tropical treades- - to keep busy SI buoys in the loop.

 

Firing today. What happened to Betty? I'm outa the loop.

 

She ran off with a billionaire frenchman. She is living near the Eiffel now, selling weather charts to tourists.

 

Betty is good and getting better!
it has been firing..

 

I'm not sure if it cleaned up before dark in RI. Matunuk looked like victory at sea all day, and I was just over the wind and weather. I'm definitely getting older.

Well, at least acting older.

 

Killer day in S. Moco. So many barrels, so many beat downs, so many lip smacks and cartwheels. Such a good day. Solid OH swell in the water, heaving pits, strong offshores. Pics to follow suit soon. Stoking.

 

Got out in central Monmouth late afternoon today. About as perfect as I’ve ever seen jersey.

 

Exceptional day. One of those swells that make the jersey shore redeemable.

 

A lot of screaming fast barrels. You had to be choosy. Overhead and rifling, even at high tide. Best ones were corners on the set waves... big drop, pull in, out and over the shoulder. If you took off at the peak, you got swallowed up.

 

Your work is much appreciated, but I’ve been so busy, I haven’t had much time to even skim the forums! I was checking the forecast pages and saw the thread about Phillipe and that was the first that I had realized that it had actually became a named storm!

 

Agree for the most part, my "about as perfect as I've ever seen" comment was referring specifically to the last hour or so before dark (I paddled out just before 5). The wind died down to almost nothing and it got a lot more makeable compared to how it looked earlier, at least where I was at. Still well overhead on the sets, still super thick and hollow, but lining up absolutely perfectly, gorgeous sunset lighting, (relatively) warm water, pretty much like a dream. Can't wait to see the pictures that come out of this... I've never seen so many photographers at my local break. On the jetties, on the beach, on the street overlooking the beach...

 

I can only imagine how good it got right before dark. I left a little before 5pm, and it was... like you said... perfection in how cylindrical it was. Would have loved to watch the sunset. It started getting a little less consistent when I left, but the sets were still coming.

 

My kids school was closed from loss of power so I had her yesterday( as I do now, still no power). Checked a spot out of the wind by my house about 1 pm and it was as big and barreling as I've ever seen it. Offshores and insane. I wanted to cry, no surfing for me. Epic day for some In RI.

 

got about two waves yesterday evening, knee hi. flat forecast for the upcoming week. folly sucks, it's the worst

 

Man...i knew this swell was pure North Jersey gold. Tons of south fetch pushing up SE medium period swell, with winds going W to even a bit WSW. On the Delmarva, the morning looked like a bit of a bust. STIFF offshores and low tide equalled stretched out closeouts with not much size and way too shallow. My mid-afternoon the winds had let up to just 5-10, still west, and with the high tide putting more water on the sandbar, OCMD came alive.

Not like what you guys got up north, but head high SE swell, a-framing in deep water onto the sandbar so the rights were open easy barrels. The swell was peaky enough that the walls didnt run away from you at all....nice easy tempo. Roll in to a bottom turn, back up onto the face, set your rail and just glide at the same speed as the lip threw out. Surfed for a couple of hours, shot these around 5. I saw SO many guys come out of deep ones. Great afternoon.

 

Nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

^^perfection

be grateful...in a flash, you could find yourself in a situation where you can't surf at all.

I grew up surfing in the gulf, then moved to charelston. The waves at folly are bigger and swells much more consistent than the gulf. If you're too "big" to surf what Folly gets, get a longboard...or move.