Today, Saturday it is flat, windy, air temp 20*F, wind chill 14*F. Perfect for the weekend--workers and students cannot surf. Awwwww.....tooooooo baaaaad!!! I surfed twice this past week; all by myself with nice waves, off shores (a bit strong), sunny out......
Yesterday was cold and sideshore windy with crazy current moving down the beach. But there where a few good lefts to be found. I love neoprene.
^ basically the same for me, without the current. I froze my arse off. Had to retire my leaky 3/2 after that sesh and really wish I had worn my gloves. Fell into a couple lefts that were a blast though. Had some nice energy in the pocket and they were pealing for a good while.
Went out in central jersey on Thursday. Swell underdelivered but we found some nice chunks where the broken pier with the doll on it is. Kinda concerned about the lake pipe connection that leads out to that break but it was working. Saw a huge sea lion - I thought it was a walrus until my buddy reminded me I'm an idiot. First time seeing a sea lion - it was rad. Kinda unnerving because who knows what else is down there. Looking forward to the cold weather! 3/2 and booties is still sufficient but the mittens are coming out soon...
We don't have sea lions in New Jersey. They are a pacific creature. Mostly we have Harbor Seals and rarely a gray seal will be seen. Harbor seals get up to 250 pounds and a gray can reach 600 pounds. Grays are more common in New England.
It was blowing hard onshore with a 8 foot north swell, and it was either The Cove where real men surf real waves on Nor'east conditions,or Kiddie Pools, a protected crowded reform school south of a secret jetty. I chose Kiddie's. The incoming tide brought in random chest high plus peaks, some bigger random drops, and lots of closeouts. I took the 6'8" NA egg for speed and ease of entry, to get ahead of the foam. It worked great,got lots of waves, some connected, one was a really fast backside left that went thru to the shorepound. Lots of dudes falling in the shorepound. It started raining for a while but not enough to glass it off, just stinging on the back (trunked it). Douched the ears out with white vinegar afterwards, the ocean smelled like ass. A commercial diver that does props and bottoms just told me he uses a 50 -50 mix of white vinegar and rubbing alcohol. Makes sense. Life is goode!
Right tide, right place makes all the difference. I had a really nice session. Following morning was sweet, though brisk.
I just flew back from San Diego last night from a weeks vacation. I lived in SD in the early 90's while in the Navy. I have been a half dozen times since then but the last time was about 5 years ago. Traffic definitely sucks, just have to plan on it by really early surf sessions. Got pretty fun waves this trip...swell started filling in Friday morning, peaked Saturday & still OH sets through Monday.
Snuck out for a quick not-as-horrendous-as-it-looked lunchtime session in moco just now. Knee to waist high and onshore, but there were little lines to be had here an there. 2-3 second rides mostly, and not much to do on them but just stand and go where the wave decides, but I got a decent handful in the 25-30 min I was out. Plus it's my first time surfing what I believe is the closest spot to my office. 10 min drive on the dot, so totally feasible to get a half hour session and be back at my desk in an hour. Which is pretty suite. Side note, first time ever wearing a 4/3... I've always had a 3/2 and a 5 mil and been too cheap to buy a third suite. Pretty awesome for this time of year. Got one from needessentials (after first hearing of them on here a month or two ago), seems high quality, plenty comfortable and easy to paddle in, and I was extremely warm. So that's cool.
Yeah, got there last Wednesday & I knew swell was due toward later in the week. Wednesday was tiny, Thursday could of searched & found waist plus but knowing the swell was hitting Friday just waited. Scored good waves Friday, Saturday, Sunday & Monday OH+ with biggest Saturday.
It was super fun. The set waves were actually bigger but we didn't stick around to take pictures after seeing it. Got caught by more than a few sneaker sets.