who here has been surfing this week?

I'm going out tomorrow hope to find some fun ones! Told the boss man I had all my $hit together and have some things to take care of tomorrow. Both true statements.

 

Good luck! If I didn’t have to work, I’d hit ya up

 

Was base in OS.

 

Hoping for something on Thanksgiving, when I have the day off. I’ve had a few pretty awesome surfs on Thanksgiving, in the past.

Those San Diego pics look awesome! Glad you had fun and scored!

 

Looks fun in OC this morning. Waiting on Mitchell to post some pics!

 

Yeah thought it looked familiar. That place hones when it's on.

 

it was insane first thing while the tide was high...a-frame barrels. was too shallow by late morning.

 

YES SIR!!!!!!!! As I sit here at my desk, thank you Mitchell!!! Looks fun!

 

Epic! heading there in a week, hope to find he same

 

Mitch, those pics rock. That sesh looks hella fun.

 

Mitch; OC didn't look like that when I checked it at 1st light lol. Looks like it turned on. Relocated slightly south of there and definitely scored. Hit the lip 5+ times on a sneaker set. Locked into a fun grab rail left as well as countless others. Stoked! Cheers!

 

Break those chains man. Ha! No worries there is always a thanksgiving swell.

 

Nice pics!!

 

good surf yesterday, fun chest high surf, good day...water has gotten colder, wont be long for thicker rubber.

 

Paddled out in some pretty decent waves at lunch yesterday in moco. Waist high to chest high, clean, very hollow. Plenty of closeouts, but plenty of not-closeouts too. Super shallow on the inside, pretty much just got drilled after a second or two on all my waves but one, but that one was a fun ride. Not a great session for me mentally, was pushing too hard to get a great wave quickly cause I knew I was short on time (about 25 min total in the water), thus going for the wrong ones and not being in position for the right ones... tried to combine with another errand on lunch and ended up taking a way longer break than I should (good thing my boss has jury duty this week), but the bottom line is I got to paddle out in some pretty decente waves while all my coworkers were sitting in the break room getting fatter, or doing whatever boring **** they do on lunch instead of surfing. So a bad session, but still a goode lunch break.

Flat here today, off to San Diego in the morning, though it looks like it's gonna be better here on Sunday than out there at any pointe during my trip...

 

GD Mitchell. You either are a great photographer or the absolute genius at picking surf locations. I surfed at 0930 same day and it looked nothing like your pics. You seem to have a knack for being in the right place at the right time. I may resort to putting a gps locator on your vehicle. Props on your effort.

 

It got good noon time as the tide dropped, shoulder high liners revealed. Like a wave machine one after another after another, with slow head high peaks folding left and right, and the wind was naught. Every other wave connected all the way. The spread out crowd was full of stoke, and the hodge podge lineup helped me find the peaks. The beach was full of babes and doggies. Dog beach. Life is goode.

 

There was a wave here this morning. Wind was howling offshore. Had the camera with me but unfortunately the battery was in the charger at home. Starting to wish for summer again.

A shot to remember last summer:

 

Today was another fun day! The waves were clean and cold, thigh to shoulder high. Everyone was wearing neoprene waves. It was crowded because conditions have been so poor over the past week or two until yesterday.

The whole process of going surfing has become an exercise in grit and adapting. Between dressing for the water, getting myself down to the ocean in a wheelchair , figuring out how to get out of the ocean, the whole nature of surfing has changed. However, like most of you know, the sheer joy of taking that drop, Gliding across the wave, and most of all ,that first paddle out in the morning makes it totally worth it.

So many people make this happen: driving me to the beach, carrying my gear, pushing the wheelchair, high fiveing success, etc. Such kindness is truly Amazing..

My best wave was my first wave. I work quickly to catch a wave. There is no ability to sit in the lineup for a while and pick the best one, since my body only allows a certain amount of time of activity. In some respects, this has been a blessing! No longer is there pressure to select a perfect wave. The goal now is truly to surf the wave that is coming at me while I still can. A metaphor for life. I have scored several of my best rides of my surfing career because of this. Waves I would ordinarily have passed up as being too big or too steep, are now my playground.

So it was a beautiful rolling glassy looking chest high wave coming right for me today. The adrenaline going, as you know, can help me to paddle even better and to scramble up to my feet. It felt terrific to drop down that way and turn to the left to glide across the face for what seemed like a long time. And this time I did not wipe out.

I can’t wait for the next session!

 

Some really fun waves yesterday and today. Yesterday was chest high with a few pushing head high. It was mostly clean and with a wait a nice set would roll through. I rode the 6ft M-80 and had a blast. Small crowd, warm - slightly cool water, refreshing in just board shorts and rash guard.

This morning was LB heaven, waist high with sets up to chest high every so often. Wind was offshore all day so conditions were clean and the form was perfect. Long playful lines to do whatever one wanted with. Perfect weather, so warm, I love FL. There was a little bit of crowd today but it was functional and everyone played nice. Some old guy gave me a fist bump as I was leaving. We were stoked at how much fun we just had.