who here has been surfing this week?

Winds kicked offshore just after dawn this morning (Sunday). Straight offshore, but stiff! If a set wave came to you while the gusts abated a bit, you were hooked up! Gems coming in. But by mid morning, the gusts were't abating very often. Still....unexpectedly (for me anyway...i thought a skunking was quite possible) fun morning on the Delmarva.

 

Got a good shot from a friend from this morning

 

The last two days have been good, Friday, afternoon till dark chest to shoulder semi clean bowls about the best in a month or so, it took a few waves to get these old bones moving but once it kicked in I was good to go, Today was really slow, thigh to chest on sets but an offshore wind that made it hard to paddle into. Count your blessings every day, because someone out there can't share the same stoke as you...help the less fortunate as much as possible...the word of the day...peace

 

Today was the first time I used a hood, boots or gloves. Which was sucked because it was marginal waves when I got there which pretty much crapped out due to the increasing winds shortly after I paddled out so the hassle didn't pay off. Friday might be something, we'll see. Way, way too windy today.

I don't mind boots but I hate dealing with gloves. The worst.

 

This am from 9:45 to 11:30 Monmouth County NJ connecting.. some rides were very long and connecting all the way through if you held tight and low on the wave. If you stood up you'd get blown off, overall a windy but very fun day in Dirty Jerz..

 

Thigh to waist and offshore, had to wait until the tide dropped, then it was line after line. Hard to paddle into, even with the LB due to the stiff offshores and a weak dropping swell, but I sat a bit inside the crowd and got lots of peelers, long long lefts all the way to the shore. It was a beautiful day, and everyone was stoked, and even the SUP dude was cool. Very mellow session.

It's amazing how worn out I got after surfing on a LB in waist high waves, but the paddle back was long, and the waves were many.

 

yup--agreed!

 

minor surf at the home break, found out wasn't 3/2 suite kinda water anymore. clean, thi hi. saddled by the pier with the funshape, really had to find the inside line since the paddle in was gonna be a bit tougher. sold my LB a couple weeks ago, so i'm in the hunt for another one in these type of conditions. had a crowd at the pier cheering myself and the roomie on for the hour sess

 

CR report - travel delays got me into CR late Saturday rather than noon (american airlines screwed me the way back too, so yea they're on my sht list). jaco was dreamy that nite, grab your goods there - it was a breeze. stayed at the Hermosa bungalows behind the almond tree, it was packed Sunday morning. 10-15 ft waves, clean but dumpy. used a 6'7' pintail but it was too much weight to really cut up those kinda waves. Hermosa was heavy, had several rides for the early morning sess but was looking for lines then letting it ride out (paddle out was pretty brutal from the size and short sec swell periods). Dominical the next day, also dumpy and a strong current out to the rivermouth. lotta texture that evening, wasn't feeling it at the start and didn't score much that evening. also foggy n a bit haunting being the only guys out there, made for a surreal scene when in the lineup tho. next morning, dominicalito provided chest to head n clean. rocky for sure (that applies everywhere except hermosa) but especially in dominicalito but i had perhaps my best sessions there, plenty of fun ones with an older crew out there. Pavones was expecting 2-3 ft while Hermosa & Dominical were at 3-5 ft, so i along with a couple others thought it was worth the drive since we had a place n heard so much. then the rain came down, waist hi bout the winds were strong n rain dampened the spirit. i could see the lines, but it was clearly better on a LB, so took my buddy's 7' libtech when he didn't want to hop in. as ppl informed, if it's not the best conditions it's not worth the time to get there. on the return leg i was surfing at a snail's pace. scored at dominical in the morning, cleaner conditions and stayed south of the lifeguard tower to prevent the pull to the rivermouth - that was a good decision. also did dominicalito again and even rockier this time but got an hour in for more fun chest hi waves. took to hermosa again the next day, that early morning, buddy broke his rental board 6'4 fisch in half on the second ride. size was still big - 10 ft - and luckily i got my best ride of the week as my last wave in which turned into a double dip - about 200 ft long right. apparently that ride was so sweet it ripped my board shorts in the back, surely there's a name for that. thx to all for the advise here prior to leaving, surfed everyday minus the travel days. really took in the sun on the last couple sessions knowing it'll be a long while till i'll be in warm waters again, left on a good high

 

^^^Love it. And love that feeling, too.

 

Nice trip report, tx.

 

Glad you scored! Can't think of a good name for the shorts thingy yet. But I'm having a good laugh.

 

#highspeedblowout

 

Gave up on work today, and the cams looked like there was possibilities, so I bailed and hit a secret sandbar hidden in plain sight. The water cleared up a bit with the E/SE flow, was actually nice.

It was chest high plus and dumping, breaking real fast lefts, got some short punchy rides on the fish. At first I just sat for 10 minutes out there trying to get the timing and takeoff space down, it was warbly and sucking up on the outgoing tide. I paddled into one,then pulled back, it was breaking too fast. Then I got settled and got a couple grab rails, then a nice right,then a couple sweet lefts. Got a good backside thwack on the last wave. Sunny skies, no bait, beach full of tourists. Life is goode..

 

Nice! Aside from the ripped boarshorts part! Haha! I'm already missing that warm water and it's actually been warmer here this Fall, much more so than in recent years, in both air temps and water temps.

 

DP this morning. Waist to chest n clean. Lines being offered tho there isn't much punch on them to get ya to shore. took the 7'2" hog molly that handled the slo rollers well. took me a sec to gain my strength in the 4/3 suit for the paddle out. warm air temps tho even with the chilly waters. had a couple ppl on my tail for the hour session, but i got plenty for the time being. very very ecstatic once it was all done for, felt like i got a good workout n my shts packed n side dishes are looking promising for a good turkey day. still considering of returning to the beach before leaving inland but lo tide is 4:30 n not sure if it'll be worth chasing

 

Fun chest - head high peaks this morning. Not perfect conditions but fun on the right wave!

 

flat, cold, raw......perfect NH conditions!!!
Zzzz....Zzzzz.....

 

Looks like we'll have a bump here tomorrow and Friday... I won't surf either day. If there's anything left over (besides turkey) on Sunday, I'll go... otherwise, my next session probably won't be until December.

 

I’m glad I’m not alone, Same boat here.