who here has been surfing this week?

Got out from like 420-5 yesterday but wind seemed to have gone to ****. Was not very good. Don't really regret paddling out cause it's been so long, but no good rides, knee to thigh high and pretty sloppy. Checked it and was about to head home without paddling out when I saw the one other dude out get a long halfway decent ride (small wave, but down the line for a good 8-10 seconds), so I went for it. Got nothing remotely that good myself though, nor did I see him get another like that. Oh well. Always good to get wet. Still plenty warm in 4/3, hoping to make it into January before having to switch to the winter suite.

 

I do it more times than I probably should, but rarely do I get into the water at dark. When I do it, it’s usually a session that started while there was still daylight, and I extend it into the dark, sometimes by an hour or two. I actually surf after last light, quite frequently when it’s good. When I go to California on business, I regularly start a session with my friends out there, after it’s dark already. Just because I’m busy with work during the daylight hours and it’s usually Winter time and gets dark at 5:00. My friend in California regularly gets in the water right before sunset and will surf for 2-3 hours after dark. Dude is beyond crazy! He’ll surf Steamer Lane in the dark!

As for me, haven’t been surfing lately, but tomorrow I’m off and it seems like it could be good if the forecast holds.

 

I bailed for a bit and surfed the dead low tide today at my local, it's been awhile since I've been to the beach, my wife hurt herself before Thanksgiving, fell inexplicably, and did a number on herself. So I've been very busy.

It was a salvation session, only waist to chest high warbly wedges and short rides, but the water was warm, the sky blue, and some friendly faces. Good to just sit out there and breathe and wait for a random peak. Life is goode.

 

Sorry to hear about your wife Dogg, hope she is doing well.

 

Thanks bro. She's on a 6 - 8 week rehab, I'm going insane.

 

Lots of reefer should fix that problem!

 

Been buying lots and lots of munchies on my unsupervised shopping missions.

 

Nooner sesh during lunch today. Waist high.
Getting used to full rubber again (w/boots, hood, gloves), and damned if I don't feel outta shape.

 

Good man, hope things settle down for ya.

 

I'm in the 5 mil already... Ugh.

 

Water just hit 49 degrees here yesterday

 

So, I did get out this AM--waves 5-6 footers (head high larger ones), water 47*F, Air 52*F, offshore winds.
Actually had some nice rides; one nice large late drop, bottom turned it and went shooting out to the shoulder for a nice long left. Made my day.
I was still in my 4/3 with boots ,gloves and hood, but the offshores from the WNW did cut me a chill. Next session I move up to my 5/4--it is a nice Ripcurl, but it still is a wetsuit. boo!

 

I checked it at first light, tide was already killing it so I pulled a Barry and went home. It’s probably a blast on lower tide though.

 

Used an hour of leave to get a fun extended lunchtime session just now. Waist to chest high with the odd shoulder high wave still coming through. Very clean and glassy, perfectly lined up. A little crowded, but got some fun ones. Prob gonna be blown flat by later afternoon, definitely the right decision to get on it now.

 

Wish I could have done the nooner... got out 3-dark. Too fast, too shallow, but still some solid, hollow waves coming through every once in a while. Not the greatest session, but...

...some sessions, surfing isn't so much about what you do. Sometimes it's more about the things you see, and the things you feel. So there's always that. Tonight it was the cold, muddy December water... the grey mackerel sky that slowly slipped into a moody sunset of salmon orange and purple... the low tide rivulets cut into the sand like the capillaries at the tips of the ocean's furthest extremities.

...whoa... I think I just had a flashback.

 

I got one really good one today but otherwise surfed like crap. Got a fun one at the end but instead of paddling out ( I was already cold and tired) I go for one more. Before I can get to the lineup a clean up set rolls through, breaking deep, so I turn before the foam hits and go for a serious belly ride. It was pretty fun until the one rock that sticks out, and everyone surfs around, came out of nowhere and I was stuck in my line. The wave lifted me up enough so I didn't go head on but the rock took out the center fin and pushed the side fins into the board so hard they are almost flush. Sucks but could have been a lot worse, I thought I was going to kiss that rock

 

Got some good ones up your way LB. Nice lunch sesh 11-1. Probably last weekday sesh till spring so bitter sweet. For once it looked better down the beach, I moved down, and it was better.

 

Was toasty in 5mm boots and gloves. Took hood down inbetween waves and no ice cream headaches yet. So that was nice.

 

Yesterday was fun. Best/bigger closer to the higher tide. Went 7am to 8am then 11am to 2pm.

 

Pretty good chest-ish high sets yesterday. Was out for 3 hours. In a 4/3, but made the mistake of no gloves, which got a laugh out of my friend when I was shivering. He had his and asked me if I wanted to get mine before we left. I told him I think I was good! Probably a mistake.

No hood for me.... yet. I have a pretty good feeling that I’ll be needing it next time though!