who here has been surfing this week?

Really great writeup Kanman, fun to read!

 

Haha! I'm pretty sure I was just getting home from working when I posted that! That was right before bedtime for me! I sometimes sleep 12-14 hours on my day off.

 

NICE! This is what I like to see! Glad you got the hell outta here and got some surf in a warm destination, that actually has waves right now! I'm going on a trip somewhere in a few weeks, but I only have literally 4 days to burn! but we haven't gotten it hammered out yet! Judging by the lack of posts, I'm assuming it's been flat as fuck all up and down the East Coast this week?

 

got it in this morning, took the rest of my PTO off at work. Semi chop, thi to waist at the Washout. Wasn't as cold as the session i had like two weeks ago. took a longer fish, made the best of it. nobody in the water, handful of waves. a scary scene with a dolphin on my last ride in, acting like i've never seen one before. def were some pockets to cut n lines to be had. tomorrow morning before hi tide 10am should be real good, got the day off tomorrow. hopefully leave me in good vibes going inland for xmas like it did for me coming to work

 

It's been a little over 2 weeks for me...way too long. Still not much out there, but I'm about to paddle out anyway. At age 62, it doesn't take long to get out of surfing shape, especially wearing all that rubber. Been hitting the gym and running, but it's not the same.

 

10 day flat spell broken today...felt so fun to pull into some juicy ones.

 

I haven’t surfed all week, I would stick my dick in that wave.

 

Sick shots. I ended up holding it out in Jersey for some fun waist to chest high S swell nugs at the south protected spot this evening. It was a lot of fun and I’m glad I stayed back. There were some rights lining up nicely.

Ended it on one ride right after last light. It was damn near pitch black with the exception of night clouds and green luminescent lights shining nearby. Felt like space travel, it just kept unraveling for me and with the lights all around I was just in the zone. Finished with a cutback in the pocket and took it to the beach.

Back home now with fam and I’m stoked to have gotten my fill of waves.

Hope some of you guys can score tmrw.

Yewww.

 

Nice pics Mitchell!! I saw there was a little bump but I am down in N.C. right now.

 

Whilst it is a tube, it is NOT a Fallopian tube!!

 

Got out this morning for the first time since my surgery. It's been over 3 weeks. First time in full winter regalia. Felt fat and out of shape but it felt awesome to be back in the water. Decent waist high-ish waves at mid tide. Easy rides. Perfect conditions to get back in after a long lay off. Wife was cool

 

Lack of swell has kept me out of the water. Only a handful of sessions in the past month. Today.... the ball was dropped. Hard. Buoy was like 5-6 feet at 9 seconds in the early AM. I was meeting a bud but i was scoping out our two potential spots early. Checked the first, normal go to spot, which can get pretty crowded. Looked about stomach to chest high. Clean. Lots of peaks. Then i checked my "big wave" spot. It's basically just deep there. Didn't go because of the size, but just to see if it was working since you can surf there alone most days. Looked ok, two peaks breaking nicley. But experience was telling me or wouldn't last. Tide filling in plus a deeper spot.... guess I'll be joining the crowd. Well long story short i told my bud to go to the go to spot, only 7 in the AM and it was packed.... screw it, I'll take my chances elsewhere.

It actually wasn't terrible. Got a few fun ones. Rights and lefts. They had some power but were on the softer side. Cutback city to stay with the energy. Patience was key. Had to wait on the sets. The inbetweeners were not or just barley breaking. After two hours the wind started picking up and it got fully junky.

Sticking with my gut was probably the better choice wave wise, but it was nice to get a few mediocre waves with just a handful of guys spread out. Might of seen peajay? Saw a car similar to his with a board a similar color..... Got a feeling it was a look a like.

 

Nice glad you got some!

 

Me and some of my crew had lots of fun Sunday on some playful knee to thigh high waves, and the crowd was slow to arrive. Bright sunshine and 75F water was a real pleasure. The marine life was leaping out of the water plenty, but safely behind the lineup.

The wheelchair broke before I even got pushed more then a couple of feet. Then, like Rocky, I said, “I’m gonna try to walk it!”, cuz it would be another 20 minutes for a replacement. That took courage! So, the crew carried the gear and I made it! Took a rest on the bench, letting the legs settle down, watching the yummy waves, and got on it.

The crew helped me to the water, and I must’ve had a Huge Smile on the paddle out! So glorious! The cool spray, sun reflecting on the clear water, just so happy to be able to paddle out again. We surfers just don’t feel quite right if we aren’t in the ocean. First paddle out is just such an “Ahhhh “moment.

And the best part was being able to pop up and catch four rides. One was a keeper and it was a delight to be standing on the board, and the legs being able to flex as the wave rolled up and down. And how special that locals fade back and let me take a wave, knowing the body’s clock is ticking away.



I love surfing, love my crew, love the locals.

 

Congratulations, and go for it, Betty!!
And were I there, I would 100% be one of your crew assisting you (if needed ) getting to the water!!
And here is why: "We surfers just don’t feel quite right if we aren’t in the ocean. First paddle out is just such an “Ahhhh “moment." How true!!!

Merry be-lated Christmas, Betty. Never give up!!

 

Got some waves with my friend Kahuna Kai this morning. It was small, knee - thigh with some waist high waves on the low incoming tide. Light onshore Breeze, a little bumpy but not terrible. It was weak windslop but we had fun and caught a bunch. This week looks good though, finally!

 

FLAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAT

Is there any hope for the Mid Atlantic?

 

im in south flordia now on vacation from RI and while RI is flat im gonna score all weekend starting friday!!!

 

Just an absolutely pathetically flat few days around Christmas. Had time to surf, but there was nothing doing. And the temperatures are terribly cold right now and for the next week+ after this.

Lame.

 

I was thinking of going surfing this morning, but a couple of things stopped me:
Air: -2*F
Wind: 25MPH from NNW
Wind chill around -20*F
And, lastly....no waves.

So, for all of you on the Atlantic shores of Dixie....STFU!!!