who here has been surfing this week?

I'd be jacked to go to Ireland, I'm jealous.

 

Yea, Ireland is awesome

 

Really would like to try that Thurso place in Scotland, looks like my kind of wave.

 

That's in my top 5 list, but it seems like kind of a hike to get to. Winds can be a little fickle in the winter.... Correct me if I'm wrong, because I'd love to head there and to Mundaka to get the best of both worlds.

 

+1 for Ireland. It's on my list. We had a nice run of swell up here in NoFla. The 30 degree air temps and 48 degree water has scared off all but the most polar bearish of the tribe. Love the winter for that reason, but planning a warm water trip in the spring. Anyone have any warm water options where Zika is not present? If not, I think the destination is southern California. Would still need to suit up but at least it's a little warmer there than here this time of year.

 

I’d love 48 degree water right now. That sounds toasty.

 

Wrapped up a fun 9 day Florida surf and family getaway from the freezing cold. there were fun wave just about everyday and got to hit up a bunch of different spots all withing striking distance of the Palm Beach / Jupiter area. Thanks to SiSurfdogg for the board rental suggestion...i ended up getting a nice 6'0" fish...not some NSP garbage. Trunking it felt GREAAT.
Couple shots of typical conditions on the better days (which was several days).

 

Sweet pics bro! Glad you and your family had a nice trip here in the dirty souff.

 

Strange but fun little morning. Swell was small and tide filling in. Light winds. Thigh high. Low to mid 30s air temps which was nice for a change. Waves were fickle. Positioning was key more so than usual. You had to be right on the peak. Hard to tell which ones would wall up and which ones would just fatten up and shoulder out. Sesh started slow so I told myself I needed to get at least 3 waves to make it a session. It was pretty high. Then there was a solid 20 min pulse of some really good ones considering the day. I got one left that walled up and was fast... gave the oncoming section a solid back hand smack. First real turn of the day. Had s similar wave as a right. Those two made it worth it. I could tell things were going to come to a halt soon so I ended the day after another good wave. Even though it was 20 degrees warmer than it has been, it was still cold and I wasn't looking to be sitting there idle waiting for the last wave that'll never come.

I put off getting a new 5/4 this year. Mines alright, but it's leaky. Lots of cold water flushes. I live close so usually I just ride home in my suit but today I took advantage of the weather and changed in the lot. It was nice driving home dry and warm.

All in all it was a fun day and got a handful of good waves that made it worth it.

 

Some fun LB waves today around the waist+ range. Conditions mostly clean with very little wind. Lots of rides the 1st hour, then it slowed down the next hour and then it started breaking again as low tide was approaching. Some rights, some lefts, lots of turns and cutbacks, some nose rides, etc.

Gorgeous weather and had the place to myself for the most part. Water felt cool but very refreshing. Great day all around.

 

You gotta start takin' some pics, brother... I always get this images in my head when you describe your sessions... really nice, happy images.

 

Last two days were fun! Tudor was out yesterday, killing it. Fun to watch a pro surf a wave in front of you

 

Was in LB yesterday too, good, clean waves with only 1 other dude at the jetty. When I first got there, there was a little texture on it but as the evening approached it really started to glass off. No wind at all. Water was definitely in the low 40's. A little gutless, but got a few cutbacks and even a microbarrel. Meanwhile in cali, guys are fighting 80+ plp for similar surf...

 

I will see what I can do. I have a new camera now and need to use it. My problem is I am one track minded, when I go surf, I forget about taking pics. But that’s no excuse lol

 

Me too... I took my first post-session pictures two weeks ago... put up on insta. Probably because I was avoiding the hour and a half ride home!

 

Right on, I don’t blame you on the ride home, sometimes waiting let’s the traffic die down so there’s always that.

 

Lately I have been bouncing around to a few different spots and have ignored my regular go to spot but I decided to get back to Ole Faithful today, which turned out to be a good choice.

I pulled up and checked the surf, it was a calm morning, light wind from the SW, air felt warm to slightly cool about 20-25 minutes before sunrise. There was a little wave out there, not much but worth getting wet for. As I turned to walk back to the car and get my board I end up seeing an older fisherman getting ready to set up for his session.

After saying good morning he asks me about the contest going on at the Inlet. Then he says nobody ever surfs here at the spot we were standing at. Not sure of his intentions I got a little territorial and I told him I’m here all the time, sometimes every day if waves are there. He seemed surprised but then admitted he had only fished there once and it was yesterday. I told him lots of people fish as well as surf here but we typically stay out of each other’s way, hint hint. He told me it’s not a problem. He then started chatting me up about being a renowned fisherman and hands me his brochure.

He then gave me a motivational speech on staying young by keeping active. We shook hands and introduced ourself by first name, told him I would see him out there. Nice interaction I thought.

I paddled out down the beach to allow for us both to have peace and quiet and enjoy the gorgeous morning, plus it was breaking at my favorite peak so It was a selfish decision in the end.

As it became a little more light out the sky began to change in color and contrast, different shades of pastels, lots of orange and purple.

The waves were waist high on sets / peaks, it was mostly glassy with a slight warble from the ENE / ESE swell mix. I rode the LB and caught several waves that were worth the price of admission. The water temperature is therapeutic right now, not too cold if I wanted to trunk it, but feels great in a 3/2. Today I decided to wear my old Ripcurl suite, which felt like putting on my old favorite hat that I have had for years but fits better than all my new ones. Wearing this suite has a little nostalgia to me as I have had many of memorable sessions over the years in it. I decided today I’m going to get another just like it.

After several glassy sliders, I waited for a good one to end my session and I finally got it. It was a right, backside for me, and it was longer than the others. I caught it right at it’s peak, put it on rail and starting flying down the line. As the face got steeper and began to load up while approaching the sand bar I crouched down mid way up the board, I leaned into it and I climbed up the wall and then I stood up and stepped back on the tail and swung her around right as the lip began to crash and landed in the flats where I decided to belly it in the rest of the way. Just prior to that wave a dolphin and it’s baby surfaced about 3-4 feet in front of my boart on my paddle back out. So many visuals today...

When I walked back, I saw “Fisherman Larry” manning 4 poles and running back and forth as he got bites. He is 73 years old and looked 50-55 out there. I bet he got a good one but I didnt stick around to watch as I had to work. Great way to begin my day. This is why I’m here.

 

I haven't posted in a while and wanted to put up a report. I got out surfing last weekend about a week ago. The waves on Delmarva were not as good as forecasted but it was still great to paddle out. It was very peaceful out there; the wetsuit hood mutes most sounds and allows one to tune into the ocean. The NW wind was on the swell; made it textured and closed out. Still managed to snag some fun ones.

I had some paid time off and got to snowboard Thursday. The Poconos got 8 inches of snow the day before, and the mountain was empty. Scored great conditions and no crowds; stoked!

The weather was great this weekend. Its amazing how 50 degree air temps feel like summer when your used to the temps being 10-30 degrees. I enjoyed it by cycling 30 miles on Saturday. Ended up going snowboarding again on Sunday. And finally biked 30 more miles on Monday. It was good being able to enjoy multiple outdoor activities.

In summary; Snowboarded 12 hours and biked 60 miles over a 4 day period. I wish I was a professional athlete lol.

 

Got out today in some semi-glassy south swell peaks. Got one REALLY good barrel, and another OK one. Wasn't really lining up that good... sorta breaking all over the place... but every once in a while you'd luck into a chunky one. Kinda nice being the only one out, and the warm air was shrouding the beach in fog. Unfortunately, the wind never went offshore until...

My last wave... Drifting back up the beach with the current, watching the sky slowly go from thick black rain clouds, to iridescent orange. A set pops up out the back. I chase it down, turn, and go... It lines up pretty good, and I get a nice roundhouse at the end, then flop down and belly it in to the beach. In just those few seconds, the sky really starts lighting up, and by the time I get to the sand the wind slaps me in the face like college girl. I turn around and watch another set feathering down the beach in the offshores... the sky somehow getting brighter as it gets darker. I walk back to the truck, drive the three blocks home, and it's dark.

What a day...

 

^^^ LB, your experience sounds very similar to mine. Did you see that very eerie, but insane looking Gotham-like red sky under the big and gray clouds/fog? Looked just like something out of a Batman movie. It was pretty damn amazing.

Totally kooked it earlier. Got to the beach early only to realize I left my wetsuit at home, 40 minutes away.... screamed home got it and had an hour long sesh at the mar.

Funky warbly, non-offshore rights in the chest hi range. Some lined up and took me for a nice ride. Made every drop I took without error. Felt good to get the 20-30 I did in the hour I was out. Only 5 felt like waves though.

Last one was a right just as the offshore came on during last light. It lined up about 50 yards or so and I milked it for everything it was worth.

Loving this twin trailer combo I have going on, so loose but still drives. Stoked... more tmrw am.