who here has been surfing this week?

Dpsup , you sure you're not possessed by emass right now

 

I did. I just stood on the beach for a minute and looked around. Sometimes you just gotta stop and look around. Very spiritual moment for me. Made me wonder if God did that just for me.

Guess not! LOL!

 

Lol Nah just felt like writing a little bit today, I was inspired by my experience.

 

A very enjoyable read, DP. Thanks for the much-needed shot of stoke!

 

Glad you enjoyed it!

 

That’s what it looked like here in Jerz tonight...

 

Yup...

 

Another fun waist-stomach hi session this morning at first light. Fun little right hand peelers. Got enough turns in to fuel the flame. The sunrise over the water was almost as awesome as the sunset last night. Good way to start off my birthday. Yewwwww!

 

Happy Birthday, Brother! Who was president when you were born? Lol!

 

Haha thanks bro and clever way to ask. I’m a young gun, Bush Sr.

 

Happy B Day dude!

 

Johnson, if you're wondering... Missed Kennedy by 4 months. And yes, I blame the Russians for that one, too.

 

Fun session for me last night, even though it didn't clean up until my last wave (and I couldn't see well enough to get a good one). Felt kinda like a summer session... chest high and kinda sloppy but organized enough to get long rides. Warm too, at least compared to my last few sessions. Not sure if the water warmed up or if it's just the air temp difference but no ice cream headaches for me. And that was one of the coolest sunsets I've ever seen, definitely the coolest I've ever seen surfing. My second to last wave, everything was just neon red... the sky, the water, everywhere. Ridiculous.

 

I went 3 to 5 yesterday. Light winds, long rides, sick sunset, and yes the water felt warmer.

 

Happy bday bro! Good to hear you got some surf on your bday!

I got out this morning too- awesome sunrise! Was out from 640 to 730... some chest high sets coming in but mostly around waist to stomach... BUT it was peeling ridiculously good! Every wave was a fun ride, missed one nice sized wave due to my board slipping out from under my chest.... I blame the wax... or my suite lol fun and refreshing, havnt had waves line up that well in a while... also got to try out a new fin on a single fin board I had shaped in the fall, pretty stoked on the set up... true Ames 7.5 Wayne rich power fin, cool fin with a nice amount of area for a lot of drive

 

magic session yesterday afternoon...rain storms and warm afternoon, crappy conditions but a building wind swell. 2 hours before dark the wind shifted and the waves sorted out into 3 foot rights peeling down the beach under a glowing sunset. Just 4 of us out calling each other into waist to stomach high waves that just kept stacking up and roping down the sandbar. Water felt like it was at least 5 degrees warmer than it had been a few days earlier.

 

Happy birthday man! Glad you got some!

 

Spent the weekend with family in FL. Surfed all day Monday. Felt so good to be 60 degree water with nowhere to go. As the storm rolled in there would be brief periods where the rain would stop and the wind would die and it would start to get glassy.

 

Spent 4 days in Rincon. It was really more like 3 days because we didn't get into town until close to sunset the first night. Got a quick surf in that night. Just got back almost 2 weeks ago. Was a nice trip, but way too short and fast. I'd liken it to prematurely ejaculating while banging a really hot babe hahahahaha.

Rincon seemed to be up and running, probably not completely back to normal, especially from the perspective of the locals when talking with them. The drive from San Juan to Rincon was pretty bad, as far as devastation goes. A lot of blown over trees, road signs down/broken in half. Would have liked to venture around and surf some spots up the coast a bit, just for fun and to say that I did, but didn't have enough time. Got some really nice waves though. I'm beyond sleep deprived, so I kind of regret sleeping a couple extra hours every morning, but I'm already considering a trip back soon. It's just that the next time I'll be able to go will be during the down season for waves in Rincon. I really got psyched just going there though. I gotta get somewhere else this Spring, perhaps even Oahu. I can go on all day and fill up paragraphs about how great being in Rincon and having 3+ quality days of surfing was. It definitely felt good and pretty satisfying.

And I think that's my only surfing that I've done since Christmas! Too much work, not enough days off! I'm struggling to even find time to do my laundry or find time to clean my bathroom without sacrificing more sleep!

 

Cool!!! Got any pics from rincon or PR?? Which spots did you surf most?