who here has been surfing this week?

Yesterday morning was fun... not great but fun to get drilled. Drifty chest high closeouts for 45 min is a great way to start the day...

O Barry was faking his illness so he could a suppository hand delivered

 

A suppository hand delivered.


#9/12

 

That has such a poetic ring to it.

 

Yesterday was solid, and peeling perfectly through the high tide. But once the water started draining out, it became unmakeable. Translation: I got skunked.

Maybe we should start a new threadde: "Who here has not been surfing this week?"

 

This morning was pretty fun, waist high and semi clean with a little bump from the onshore winds through the evening but they backed off and it was pretty light this morning.

I caught a dozen or so waves on the LB, one was about chest high and lot longer than the others which made it possible to make some turns, cutbacks, etc., there were two other waves that came in that may have been even bigger but I was too far inside to get them.

I was happy for the ones I got but disappointed I missed those two. They were back to back so realistically I would have only been able to get one of them. Other than that, I was satisfied with my session.

 

I haven't surfed in 3 weeks...
It's dark when I go to work and dark when I get home.
The waves on the weekends have been nothing to get excited about and I'm finally coming to terms with my depression as a result of this.

33 more days!

Day light savings is my only hope for surfing potential after work during the week!

 

#suppositorydeliveryservice

 

Surfed for about an hour after work yesterday. Had fun, and got one fairly long and good ride, but it was getting too drained out as low tide approached. In hindsight, it wasn't a very good session... I caught a ton of waves but 95% of them closed out or sectioned either on takeoff or after about half a second. But I was irrationally stoked and had a lot of fun. Weird, but I'll take it. Hoping there's something left for the longboard after work today.

 

Pretty much got skunked too. Maybe 2 or 3 so-so rides. Forecast called for winds to lighten but that shit was blowing hard from NW and made it nearly impossible to make sections. It was fun to get wet and take some steep drops. Cant wait to be in the tropics in a few days. Tired of this cold, blown out, dumpy crap

 

This is the worst time around here anyway imo - it only will get better in the coming weeks.

 

He hooked me up with a case of top shelf beer, and a lot of smiles watching him surf on it better than i ever could!

 

It was incontinence

 

Nope, rubber band was on tightly......

 

SARS virus???

 

Waves looked pretty good before dark today... waist to chest hi. I didn't go out... (work) but did see one stand out spot (Belmar,NJ) that was peeling perfectly off the Jetty... like amazing automatically mind surf kinda stuff. A majority of the other spots (everywhere other then Belmar NJ) was closing out...

Seriously looked like it would be perfect for nose rides on the pig

 

Friday Saturday Sunday were all a blurrrr of small gutless waves but the weather was nice. Looking at the sky and the birds and the water and the so called waves was very soothing and relaxing, and when I stood up it was not for long. So it was better than yard work. Life is goode.

 

Last night was SO FUN on the longbort from around 4:40 till dark in central moco (a few towns north of belmar). Sets were probably only waist high, max, where I was at, but there were perfectly lined up rights coming in like clockwork and peeling for what seemed like an eternity (by jersey beachbreak standards, of course... someone used to surfing a world class point would laugh at that statement). I was expecting weak but cleanish knee high cruisers at best, and my expectations were exceeded 1000 times over. Smaller than Monday evening, but exponentially more fun due to the perfect shape/form, and more than enough punch to get fun turns up and down the face.

 

Doesn't hurt that my buddy and I were the only ones out at the spot we were at. Both Monday and yesterday I basically never sat on my board for more than a minute or two, just constantly paddling back out then catching a wave immediately. Yeah, it would've been nice to hit it first thing Monday morning when it had some size, but... two very fun and plenty warm hour-long afternoon sessions with beautiful sunsets? I'd sign up for that that any week of the year....

 

I didn't look, knowing I had a long day ahead of me yesterday... but I believe it! At my desk by 7am... not home until 8pm. Fun stuff...

 

Got out yesterday for the first time in two months. Man, it felt good. Winds were light, waves were thigh to waist with some close outs but decent enough for me to get back into the swing of things. My new surfing wet suite keeping me toasty. No one else in the water or on the beach. I love the quiet desolation at this time of year. Just nice to be out there taking it all in. My type of session.