who here has been surfing this week?

That happen to me a while back... so instead of checking the sunrise- a started checking the "first light" time... it happens quick- you could be sitting in your truck changing and thinking- the light is never gonna come- then your putting on your gloves- you look up and you can see!! Although the clouds can delay the time by 10 min- but not alway...

 

Super fun sesh just now. Today was looking like a bust but with a small chance of something mid day. I saw a possible chance and figured I'd take the 10/15 min drive over for a look. Pleasantly surprised with what i found. Small, dropping tide, thigh to waist high peelers with no one but shell hunters in sight.

Winds were offshore but a bit on the strong side. Turned out to be a good thing. Kept them from closing out. The bigger waist high guys were good and peeled slower allowing for some mellow lofty turns. But there wasn't many of those. The smaller thigh high guys had some attitude! Breaking in thigh deep water, they would just run. Fast little buggers. It was basically a down the line race but i had fun getting as low as possible and sticking my head in the pitching lip, trying my best to get my face barreled on a thigh high wave.

The best wave was pretty cool. I had drifted into a deep spot between two peaks. Too deep for the right to really break and too deep on the peak to get a good left. So i started paddling west to get in better position. A wave came but i was still to deep for the left but went anyway. Took off and saw i was to deep so i just sort of bounced it off the closeout and did my little kick out where i really dig the rail in and whip the board around 180 degrees. Well when i did it actually gave me enough umph to go flying into the right and set up a nice long cruisey wave.

Beautiful day out. Ehhh waves on paper, but turned out to be really fun. A SUP paddled out and since i had already gotten my fill of fun i decided to catch one more and let him have his turn. Caught a fast little screamer of a left that turned into a fun "face barrel". Got out and just laughed at how much fun i had on a day like today. Felt like a kid again.

 

I went snow surfing today. What a day! The mountains got some fresh snow last night, the air temp was great (not too warm not too cold) and the sky was crystal blue. I was pushing my snowboarding limits and had a lot of fun. Hit a bunch of jumps and rails.

Had a blast cutting through the trees, everyone has been turning in the same spot and the trail turned into a mogul run through the trees. It was a challenge to ride, which made it fun.

I was booking it towards group of 3 trees with a 18 inches between them. Went to steer around the trees and the board would not turn. The powder suddenly turned to ice. I reset my line with only a fraction of a second left before a full on collision and threaded a 18" inch tree gap at about 20 miles per hour. I thought for sure I was going to collide with the trees lol.

This is a little off topic but wanted to share the stoke.

 

I went snow surfing today. What a day! The mountains got some fresh snow last night, the air temp was great (not too warm not too cold) and the sky was crystal blue. I was pushing my snowboarding limits and had a lot of fun. Hit a bunch of jumps and rails.

Had a blast cutting through the trees, everyone has been turning in the same spot and the trail turned into a mogul run through the trees. It was a challenge to ride, which made it fun.

I was booking it towards group of 3 trees with a 18 inches between them. Went to steer around the trees and the board would not turn. The powder suddenly turned to ice. I reset my line with only a fraction of a second left before a full on collision and threaded a 18" inch tree gap at about 20 miles per hour. I thought for sure I was going to collide with the trees lol.

This is a little off topic but wanted to share the stoke.

 

I went snow surfing today. What a day! The mountains got some fresh snow last night, the air temp was great (not too warm not too cold) and the sky was crystal blue. I was pushing my snowboarding limits and had a lot of fun. Hit a bunch of jumps and rails.

Had a blast cutting through the trees, everyone has been turning in the same spot and the trail turned into a mogul run through the trees. It was a challenge to ride, which made it fun.

I was booking it towards group of 3 trees with a 18 inches between them. Went to steer around the trees and the board would not turn. The powder suddenly turned to ice. I reset my line with only a fraction of a second left before a full on collision and threaded a 18" inch tree gap at about 20 miles per hour. I thought for sure I was going to collide with the trees lol.

This is a little off topic but wanted to share the stoke.

 

Wow ... dude must have been stoked... triple post!

 

A good rule of thumb is 30 minutes after sunset or 30 minutes before sunrise.

 

Ha! Sorry about that. I clicked post reply and the web page icon just spun; so I kept clicking re clicking.

 

Actually got up early this morning, checked waves and temps--shoulder high, water 40F, air 19F. Waited an hour, air now up to 28F...so off I go in my 6/4 Xcel, into the big splash and actually got quite a few nice overheads. Was in the water about 90 minutes, then wind started to come out, so out I go, head home.....and....nap......Zzzzz, Zzzz.......
In the meantime, Mrs. Cuda made a nice homemade soup from scratch (no canned goods) for us for lunch. Love that lady........

 

Yeah not even a foamie could make it work. OV is awesome this time of year, wish it was this quiet during the summer!

 

Went back out at the spot I got drilled in HH choppe a couple weeks ago, it was Chest high on sets, so no panic, some nice ramps lefts and rights, it was kinda weak but the water was warm and clear and 4 guys out.

I watched the cams this morning, it was way better then, but I had to make a $ holler holler. It was good getting a few peaks, got one nice cuttie, a good wrap around figure 8 with spray, and a rebound off the white water into the flats. Only chest high but it felt sooooo good.

A few sea pigeons (or are they sea robins?) were out, they look like black shiny sea slugs. I only see them at my spot, only once in a great while. Some kid was all "WTF" so in a Steve Irwin voice I said "Crikey mate, they are the most poisonous creatures in the entire Caribbean Basin". He looked at me like I had three heads. The two older guys cracked up.

 

smallish long period swell from one of those storms that winds up in the north atlantic close enough to kick swell back. Sneaker swell...3 feet at 12 second goodness and 70 degree air temps. surfed two hours of super fun waist high lines. Sun was low around 5:15 when i shot these.

 

Great shots as usual Mitchell!

 

Missed the full day of clean, offshore winds yesterday, only to time it perfectly for conditions to go to junk after work. Chunky, bumpy, onshore slop in the 3-4' range. Definitely had the wrong board in the truck this time... I was hoping for conditions to hold, so I brought the log. Should have brought an 8'0 EPS/Epoxy instead... the thing catches waves like a foamy, but responds like a 6'0. I love that thing in punchy, junky surf. The longboard was... interesting.

 

Yesterday, I got out second day in a row....the waves were monotonously the same as the day before. Great exercise, nice to be in the water, but boring as hell. This swell we have here is a sucky swell.......

 

Just got back from a week in Barbados. Scored head+ most of trip. East coast was blown out but surfed at least 4hrs 7 days straight. Feel great!

 

I'm jealous.

First period in over a month where the surf has settled down to under 2XOH and we're looking at 20 degree air temps with 45 degree water with 3 more days of predicted snow.

Eff It, I'm going surfing

 

Small but nice shape today. Wasn't planning on going but woke up and saw possibly good conditions while taking my morning dump. Got on it. Surfed with 4 of the older dudes who i enjoy sharing waves with. Thigh high, waist on the sets. Clean. Long lines. A bit on the soft side but not to bad. Great for the mini sims. Going to be keeping my eyes on the wind for tomorrow. Could be good if the wind switches/dies before of gets dark. Stoked on today's surprise sesh. I needed do be water time.

 

Holy crap. What a sesh. After yesterday's session i was keeping an eye on today. Hoping. I didn't expect much if anything at all. It all came down to when the winds switched. I was expecting chest high at best, and hoping the high tide wouldn't swamp it out. I patiently waited all day, then around 1 saw the winds were starting to die down and come around. Checking the long beach came i wasn't impressed. Looked small and weak. Although clean. Got a few reports from friends out that way. I'm hearing waist high. It's usually a little bigger by me. So i head down. It was looking gooooood! No need to head out to LB. I'm staying local.

My expectations and hopes were surpassed by a long shot. It was solid shoulder high with some sets pushing HH. Clean. long lines. It was my favorite type of wave. Big open faces. Drop in, fade high and lay into a big carving cutback, bang it off the white water and fly through to the inside section where it was standing up a bit more, and get as many top turns in before you hot the rocks/rebar/and cement. Got a little sketchy at times. Learned quickly not to milk it for all its worth.

I was on the mini. Definitely the biggest iv had it out in. It was perfect. The tide kept the takeoff from being to much for it. Such a great session. Surfed for over 2 hours, until it went dark. So much bigger and cleaner and more perfect than i expected. I'm shot now. It was too perfect. Constantly paddling. So stoked. So freaking stoked. I think I'm going to throw up.

LI bro (or any LIers out west) if you got out or looked at it I'm curious how it was out west. I'm sure it was fun, but I'm wondering if you got similar size and the cams just didn't look like it or what. I was not expecting that size after i saw the cams. At all

 

Today was a typical Spring day. Perfect weather, warm water, light offshores, waist - chest and glassy. It started off slow on the outgoing tide but when the incoming tide turned on so did the waves. I rode the LB and got tons of great rides. I surfed for nearly 4hrs straight. Followed that up with a Grouper sandwich and drinks overlooking the water.

 

Big fat meaty east swell wedges in S. MoCo.

Started at spot #1 around 1 and it was kinda cross/off shore with chest high and bigger sets. It was fun but the paddle to stay in place was horrendous. Caught some okay lefts for about two hours. My buddy met me and said he was checking another spot a few minutes south of us. He came back and was stoking on it. So I got out and we head to spot #2.

Roll up at spot #2 and it was kind of going off. Shoulder to head to occasional OH on big wedge up sets. Lots of guys out, but enough current to drag everyone apart. Not gonn lie it was sick. Pulled inside one and got ample fun long lined up lefts. Got absolutely destroyed on a few, but it was great to be out in some waves with real juice.

Now, this weekend is looking epic. I have no business surfing waves over DOH so I personally won’t mind if it tones down a bit. Off to FL Saturday.

Stoking

 

It was fun yesterday, this am looks even better but im on the road missing it. Some heavy ones on set yesterday so I would image plenty of swell left to get wet again today. Hope it holds in the afternoon.