who here has been surfing this week?

I went out for a quick session this morning, it was a little deep coming off high tide but every 10-15 minutes a chest high thumper would roll through. There really was no in between, it was flat for a while and then boom, a set wave, and then nothing again. I caught a few and was thankful for them. Nice morning again.

 

Fun sesh yesterday afternoon in OCMD. Wind was light offshore and it was 65 degrees out by mid afternoon. Decent waist stomach high peaks. Highlight of the afternoon was watching 4 kids paddle out in shortys and 3/2. No gloves or boots. The look on their faces when they realized what 45 degree water feels like.

 

Welp, got another desk job so i'm back. Took off right after work yesterday since it gets dark around 6:45pm nowadays. Clean faces, waist hi's with a good bump. Bought a 9' Arrow LB Wingnut Model a month ago to replace my other Gary Wilson LB i sold several months back. Much better to say the least. Had plenty of fun ones including doing much better going left the last several days - a lil less kooky looking i'll assume. In the sunrise n sunset sessions, i've been rocking a 4/3 here on Folly but no booties, gloves in the foreseenable future. it's nice to say the least, i've been neoprened out - can barely contain the smell even thinkin about it. also, snicker balls in booties was a trick that worked for the past couple months

 

Wholly fukk yesterday afternoon was fun!! Been in a bit of a surfing slump recently, and was getting really frustrated. Had a good session two weeks ago, then was away for a week, since getting back I've surfed 5 times in 7 days, which is amazing for winter, but the first four of those were just... not good. Two days (last wednesday and saturday) that were just too small and weak to be that much fun. One (friday) that was supposed to have a late day cleanup but it never really happened... paddled out anyway but pretty much just paddled for 45 min nonstop just to get one really sh*tty 2 second ride, and then sunday was big and clean but the current was such a motherf***er that I never managed to get a good one... just couldn't get or stay in position. Like friday, felt like I must've paddle ten miles in an hour, and ended up with one short and sh**ty ride.

But while conditions weren't ideal on any of those days (though sunday had some gems, I just wasn't on any of them), I made clear stupid mistakes in every session... mistimed paddling for waves, stood up like a kook, lost my balance on bottom turns on waves that were setting up decently, etc. So I was pretty irritated by sunday evening.

But yesterday made up for all that. Rolled up around 430, central moco, looked just barely worthwhile, long lulls but the occasional 1-3 wave waist high set, tide too high but the set waves seemed doable. Paddled out on the longbort at the spot that seemed to be working best, and immediately realized it was more fun than it had looked. Fat walled up sections peeling slowly but with enough push to connect them and ride almost every wave all the way to the beach. And right around 5 the tide dropped just enough that the farthest-out peak at the spot I was at started to work... now virtually nonstop solid waist high waves and pushing chest high on the better sets, got easier and easier to connect all the sections and little bowls all the way to the beach. Mellow takeoff into a fun little drop, cutback after the section, wait for the wave to catch up, drop into the next section, repeat 3-4 times all the way to the beach. Paddle back out, wait 30-60 seconds for the next good one, repeat over and over. Only one other guy out and enough waves to go around twenty times over. Sun dropped below the cloud line on the western horizon right around 515 and lit everything up with glorious colors. Absolutely perfect session. Still so stoked.

 

Soooooo....I actually got out yesterday, Monday, for about 90 minutes--water 40*F, air temp 40*F...waves were waist to head high. Had the right board for the day 7'6" Evolution I had made for me 12 years ago. Rides like a Mercedes Benz for waves......
One thing though....I really hate wearing 6/4 mm suits, even though I am fully accustomed to them. Peeling them off just sucks......and so do all of you!!! BWAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!
Sorry, just could not resist........

 

Pretty much a perfect description of what it was like just south of my local. Like... exactly.

I was having dinner with a few friends over the weekend, and he asked me... "so, have you been surfing lately?" I told him how I've been surfing A LOT lately... but just crap waves. Total garbage junk... but at least I've been getting out.

Yesterday broke that streak. No real size to it... but clean and even hollow on the bigger ones. Lefts and rights.

 

Yeah, this exactly... makes me feel a little better about my recent frustrations. But just a little, because I can clearly remember specific waves in every session that could've made my day, but I paddled too early, or too late, or hesitated too long, or didn't quite commit, or blew the bottom turn, or one of a million other kook moves. (Related sidenote, while watching -- unbeknownst to me -- about ten futile minutes of my sunday evening paddle-athon from the beach, my wife taught my not-quite-2-yo daughter to say "Daddy's a kook." She says it all the time now. Wise beyond her years, that one, lol.)

Conditions like yesterday make all the difference though... it's just so easy and comes so naturally. Even most of the waves I made a mistake on it was easy to recover and get a decent ride. And the ones I dialed in perfectly... still smiling about a handful of those... Normally takes more size to get this stoked, but sometimes it just all comes together to exceed all expectations.

 

Stoked for ya brah.

I was in a similar boat. Small or weak days that iv made the most out of but just wasn't enough. Or bigger days where either things weren't lining up right, or i was surfing like garbage. I really needed a decent sized good day where i didn't make dumb mistakes. That was Sunday for me. Felt good to actually lay into a turn again. It's funny how slumps happen. If it lasts long enough you'll (or at least I) start thinning your regressing. Then you get that one day, or sometimes it's just one wave, and it's like you never missed a step. Right back to where you were. Any way, i know the feeling. Stoked for you

 

Kan, you get that twin keel mini sims out yet?

 

super long period goodness this afternoon from a storm WAY out in the middle of the ocean. 2-3 feet @ 16 seconds on the local buoy hitting a good sandbar perfectly....feeling the bottom way outside, shoaling up into a big shouldery peak, then 10 minutes of flatness, bumps on the horizon, then more lines. calm local winds, cloudy...felt like a cold California. Rode the mini simmons which was perfect for these waves...that board loves to fly down the line on soft wally waves.

 

Nice Mitchell. saw onshore winds early out of SE here. Sounds like late day cleaned up.

 

Wow that looks really fun!!

 

You've got to be f'ng kidding me... you lucky bastid.

 

I got a few waves this morning on the 6ft M-80, full moon high tide shore bombs, lots of long period energy in the water. It was the last hour of incoming high tide so it was tough getting one but every now and then it happened and it was fun for what it was. It was about chest / shoulder high, breaking fast but some lefts stayed open from time to time.

 

Today was pretty awesome. Wrote about the swell itself in the "huge swell coming" thread. Going to talk about my sesh here.

It was a few feet OH. Winds had died down some but were still pretty stiff. Checked it early before first light. It was looking good but could use some water. So i decided to head to my big wave spot, which i couldn't get to. So i checked a few other places then went back to my go to spot. By this time the tide filled in a bit and it was just peeling for days. The initial paddle out was really easy surprisingly. But conditions were a bit tough. The wave itself was great. There were multiple peaks but one in particular was the honey pot. It was the furthest east and would connect all the way down the beach. Longest rides i ever got at home. The drift was serious though and made staying on the peak tough. Basically a constant paddle. The wind was holding it open so the faces were just begging for big carves. Nothing vertical or super critical, as the wind wasn't helping. But just big carves. Iv actually never grabbed my rail during a cutback, but today i had to a few times. So much power and speed. There were a few fast sections as the wave would connect all the way down the beach. But inbetween it was wide open faced slow rollers. Iv never surfed a swell with that much size and power where out wasn't a down the line race. It was really really cool to surf a big swell that actually allowed you to really get on rail.

Hope the rest of you guys scored too

 

Stoked for ya bass! Glad ya scored.

Haven’t got the mini out yet, but looks like later on this week I might get an opp.

 

What up nigg... I mean fellas! Just got back from some snowboarding in CO. First day we hit Eldora then the next we hit Breck. I have been out west plenty of times but never snowboarding. All I can say is, REDONKULOUS!!!!!!!!

 

Wow...I thought I posted this before.....
This large storm has been nothing but very large, generally useless chop. Winds lateral to the beach, and always above 40mph, N/NE.....
caca....oops....I am going to be deleted again......

 

Dude Sick! My buddy and I went to the Catskill mountain range in New York to snowboard this weekend. The mountains got 20-30" inches of snow the night before. It was the deepest powder I've ever been in. All the trails turned into a mogul run. It was great blasting through big powdery moguls. Felt like pumping down the line on a surfboard.

 

^^^ Glad you scored Z. Got out this morning at my spot for the first time since being in the death grip of influenza. Bout mid tide. SOLID chest to head plus. Paddle out not as bad as I thought but very winded and rusty from lack of activity and lungs full of phlegm. I paddled out with a halls lozenge so that helped. Waited patiently and was paid off with two nice, long lefts peeling down the bar. Decided to go after a bigger set as they were barreling but closing out. Got shacked on number 3 but did not make it out. Paddled back out and caught one more chesty high left. Paddled in and now I'm at work. Coughing a lot but it was worth it. Best waves I've gotten into since October. New surfing bort performed well.