Brain is still frozen. I am out of shape/practice. Badly. My leash tie broke so I had to paddle in and get a shoelace. I put my wetsuit in a tub of hot water because I left it in my car. Clean. But picked the wrong spot/sandbar lots of closeouts and mush.
Just got back from a quick nooner session. Waist to chest high, semi closed out and sharky. A couple of my buds were on the beach, checking it out but not inspired enough to risk it. I decided to go out anyway, even though the spinners were jumping. I was ready to take one for the team to keep this thread alive. Caught four waves in a half hour, got brushed by a sea creature, and caught one more decent lined up one to the beach. Trunked it, 73 degree water, 70 degree air. On the way home, I saw our local version of Betty driving a cop car. We looked at each other as I drove by and we both laughed. I'll find out what that was all abooot later.
hey if you surfed this afternoon. post it up. give me something surf related to read after the kids are asleep. im in charge tonight so once there in bed im limited on entertainment. i've been through every scrap of the surfers journal. and the back issues i know by heart.
Was scoping it out all morning yesterday... did do it for me.. couple guys went out but they really weren't doing much, a little drop in and it would mush out with the occasional shoulder that held up and peeled. Today looked the same- Haven't been out in a month due to medical reasons but I am ready to go now.. just waiting on the waves...praying for Monday to deliver something worth freezing for lol..
Yeah once the tide started in this afternoon, and the offshores blew a bit, things started looking pretty and groomed. My feet were blocks of ice by then, so I got out and shot these around 3:00 p.m.
i made it out after work... its light till 5 now! some left overs- it was like chest high. ALL LEFTS- super fun. they where peeling pretty good, not terribly long rides, but for not having clean waves in 1.5wks- im all about it! Water dropped super cold in the last week. while paddling out- first 5 duckdives... instant ice cream headache- forgot what that was like... on the third one I was like "no more no more!" ha! I also must have been excited- pissed in my suit in the beginning and- you know- eventually it ends up in your booties... and your feet get chilly early... gotta remember not to do that in the winter when there is no way out. anywsays- pj thanks for starting a thread about surfing and not ranting! oh yea- #belmar