who here has been surfing this week?

I got my wish, there was some waist high crumblers coming in before dark on the low incoming tide. I rode my 8’1” McTavish for the 1st time in a long time. It was fun enough, nothing special but got several decent rides.

 

Hope you're feeling better soon, K-Man.

 

Keep charging, Eats well...or Eat swell... ; )

 

Left work early and got the jetty with two other guys out. Fun chest high wind/groundswell. Light winds/offshore/onshore. Goode times.

 

"Snow day" waves yesterday... not great, but something.

 

Surf is down again today, glad to have gotten out last evening. Could be a bump tomorrow morning, fingers crossed.

 

Your big daddy Chavez got out yesterday mid morning, mid tide. Work site was closed off until 2 for snow removal. My spot was chest high with long walled-up lefts just running down the bar. Feeling nearly 100% health wise for the first time in ages. Threw some Carolina cutbacks in honour of Blasters. We'll put this session in the win column.

 

Dang, I can't remember a time when I've seen that place with only 2 other guys out.

 

I was going to try and get out yesterday for bit, but I called in to plow. Not sure why they called me in, there wasn't much there. Oh well, made some extra loot!

 

I got out last evening for a fun session on the LB. I forgot my leash at home so I surfed without. I made it to the end of my session and ended up losing my board on my last wave when I ate it on a turn that I lost my footing on. Swam in and called it. The current was strong and rips were everywhere. I got lots of good waves before that happened though. It was waist - chest and bumpy and crumbly.

This morning was even better though. It got a little bigger, more clean, longer lines. It was a solid waist - chest with some in the shoulder / head range. It was getting better toward the end of my session. I ended it on a good ride. Very happy DP.

 

Flat here today. However, Starting Monday we are supposed to get a nice swell, SI reads double overhead. Getting the guns ready!!

 

Been a great stretch, and looks like potential for the last 3 days of the upcoming workweek. Yew...feels good to be surfing 3-4 times a week again!

 

Surfing 3-4 times a week keeps me stress free and care free. I could care less what’s going on in the world when trying to get the next wave.

 

I must get back to that as soon as possible.
I must be in sad shape. No matter what's going on, I think about surfing every day.
It's a sickness, I say...a sickness!!

 

Your temperature is rising!!

 

Surf was barely breaking early at first light, it was the last 2hrs of the outgoing tide. I watched an incredible sunrise and then I decided to go get breakfast, do a few things, killed a couple hours and then went back to the same spot 30 minutes after low incoming began, I checked it and it looked rideable.

Sure enough, these glassy long little peelers would appear every so often. There was a wait for each wave so it was a game of patience and positioning. You had to be sitting in the right spot when the set would finally appear. It was mostly knee - thigh with a waist high wave like every 15-30 minutes.

Not ideal surf but it helped that it was a beautiful Spring day with perfect weather and an offshore breeze keeping it glassy.

For about 2hrs it got fun and then like a switch it just turned off with the incoming tide.

Even at mid tide it had gotten too deep with the weak swell and offshore breeze knocking them down. But at low tide it made a nice little wall when it broke. I didn’t want to leave it was so nice out.

 

Surfed for the first time since January. Longest dry spell I have had since 2015. Didn't expect to find any surf, but there were nice waist high sets coming through with decent makeable lefts.

Saw some cool wildlife too. Skates were everywhere. One flew out of the water 5 times right next to me. I love the Gulf Coast. Happy to be home.

Looks like there will be swell all week!

 

finally got in, bout a 3 week hiatus. cold, windy day but the conditions set up for better than expected waves on Sunday. all 4 of us took the logs out, did close to a 2 hr sess. a lil sideshore, but good power to ride down to the shore. felt like a changed man after it all, was a great time and def much needed. in the end, had some party waves and nice cuts along with floaters. after they all left, i took out the Hog Molly 7'2" fish but didn't have the energy to muster much. waves throughout the week as it warms up, looking to score

 

Been busy with fambily stuff since the big swell, and there was a really fun 3 day swell right after - OH but non life threatening that I missed, then I ran into a buddy who got a secret spot barreling last Thursday on a new secret sandzabar while I wasted my life away behind the desk, chasing the dollar. If I sound bitter, yes.

VAS conditions starting tomorrow, looks like Kiddie Pools (or Corners early if it's semi manageable), but I'm headed out no matter what so next post I don't sound like such a whiney little bitch. Life is still goode