who here has been surfing this week?

Out this morning here in Surf City, NC, where the wind was heavy and the drift was, too. I was the only guy out initially then 1 more showed up 1/2 hour later. Instead of fighting that drift I just drifted and took off on a couple then walked back up the beach, repeat, repeat, repeat. The sun was bright and it was a sweet day brothers and sisters. I am going to miss the cold water/weather as I have come to much prefer these conditions over the summer conditions, and I know that sounds like a crazy mofo but that’s meah.

 

Ummm, anyone else seeing this?

 

I love the surfing! I am going to do it today after I give surfing lessons to youngsters!

 

Yeah big long period swell on tap this week, for once local winds look light and favorable. Tomorrow/solid could be solid around here.

 

Is it hurricane season already?

 

Yep. Except without the hype and crowds, and no lifeguards to close the beaches and save us. Whatever will we do?

 

Yeah I saw it. It is the end of east coast surfers.
We are all going to drown.
I plan an early session tomorrow, but only after it warms up a bit. I am getting finicky about air temps until I clear this "cold air bronchoconstriction" I am trying to get rid of.
I blame the Russians--they poisoned me with cold Siberian Gulag air......

 

Just pulled a foot long goey blood clot from nose and got clearance to surf from my doc this afternoon. Anatomy is looking pretty and I’m feeling great! Waves for the next few days. Stoking buoys!

Side note: If there is one thing this whole surgery b.s. taught me it’s too appreciate your health to the highest extent and take care of yourself. Money, and things, they mean nothing without your health. So embrace yourselves brosephs. Sharing the positive vibes. Yewww.

 

Paddling out in frigid Connecticut is probably the best thing you can do to prolong bronchial symptoms. I suggest you avoid less than epic conditions.
-dr jay

 

I did the surfing today!

paddled 400 yards out to a windward reef that had the goods today, few feet overhead, barreling takeoff, with a long roper afterwards

it was neon blue Polynesian perfection

also, got sunburned and stared at tan athletic chics surfing in bikinis, they had style and grace and were not interested in me. at all.

 

Yup, am aware of it. But, then again, I am a moron along with all of youz guys......

 

this morning is pretty dreadful for me, clean & pristine waist hi's while i left to work. yesterday evening was chop but waist to chest sets. i took out the 7'2" hog molly fish. did catch a solid long lasting wave, several cutbacks and rides down the line. can't state enough how much i'm done with neoprene. couple weeks before i'm down in the Daytona area for the wknd, i'm really hoping they're rocking just a rashguard n trunks

 

You could skin it right now if you really wanted to.

 

This morning was SICK. Too bad I had to go to work.

 

^I'm in same boat but it is looking gooood for later today and all day tomorrow....fingers crossed on the wind!

 

It is 10ft/16 seconds here in NH. I will try to hit it after lunch. Who cares if I cough my brains out.....

 

Hope you don't die. Good luck.

 

Is 4 feet at 14 seconds a good thing?

 

I'm on it tomorrow AM. Will report in Friday as I have to work until 11 PM after I hit it. Last session was dedicated to Blasters. I will surf tomorrow to help raise awareness to banned SI members and those having to use other names. It won't solve the problem but it will raise awareness.....

 

Have you considered flying a banner for your awareness campaign? It won't raise the awareness but it will be a nice banner.

#sunilarity