who here has been surfing this week?

nice wind swell / wind shift yesterday. a-frames. Got on it too late, but there was still a wave coming in around 6 p.m. Wore an old 4/3 with hood and was fine. Water temps are definately coming up - i would have been freezing in this suit a month ago.

After-sesh shot from late afternoon

 

Geez do you even have to paddle out there? Or is that an optical illusion?

 

Place breaks so close to the beach...Delaware even more so.

 

Hope it’s somewhat deep right when you get in, that’s nuts. We have shorebreak here that you can ride if you want but the goods are usually a nice little paddle out.

 

That's howit's like here compared to jerz. I probably worded that wrong. Here you got to paddle out (in most spots). There's quite a few spots in jerz that iv pulled up to and I'm baffled. It's like a 10foot paddle out. And shallow as hell. So much diffrent than my norm. But hey that's why they get abou a lot more barrels than i do here

 

Yeah I can see why it would barrel more.

 

I got absolutely drilled yesterday on a real dredger. Current pulled me around the tip of a jetty, and as soon as I cleared it a set came... I took off on the first one and the bottom dropped out. Probably less than 2' of water... ouch.

 

Hahaha... Same here.. The last few storms definitely moved sand around at my local spot.
Took off on one, bailed and landed feet first in water that barely covered my ankles. Took the lip to the back of the head and finished it off with a face rake across the sand.

 

Looks like I might get some ocean time this Sat, I am so friggine amped! It's been too long

 

Crackin up getting a visual of this! We've all been there

 

These are from last week up here in Masshole-landia. The storm didn't even hit us but the waves did. Some of the biggest surf I've seen in a while. The shitty cell phone pics don't really do it justice.

 

what do we have here... this one looks nice!

 

Surfed for almost 2hrs this morning and didn't get a single wave I'd call "good." Maybe I'll try againe later when the tide and wind turn a bit.

 

Fun surf this morning in the waist - chest range , light south wind early and then stiff SW wind started messing it up some but still fun , just more challenging.

I rode the 6'4" Flashback Fish 1st at dead low , then switched to the LB after an hour. Both were a blast. I tried out some new fins on the FBF that worked well. Beautiful morning.

 

Was thinking of going this morning, check it a few times... never ended up going... but had that doubt of "I shoulda went" a little while ago. I guess it's good to hear it didn't shape up..

 

Rode Surf City, NC, for a couple hours this morning on a longboard wave, in the 4/3 and thankfully the sun was out for us. Decent waves and dug the tip in on a left for a decent wipeout on that one as the wave closed out. Here come the tourists, though. Me and two other surfers were out, no swimmers but the beach is getting packed.....

 

South Jerz was fun today. Got a little cover up and some hang time. Surfed out after 3 hours. I feel worthless, but it feels so good.

I was hoping tmrw might offer something but it looks weak. On to the next one.

 

Some guy had a pic of me and him all tangled up on a wave where we took off same time in opposite directions and nailed each other on his facebook page for five years, he still blames me. He's prolly right.

 

Got a Goldilocks session yesterday afternoon. Not too big, not too small, just right. Chest high liners on the LB, got lots of long long rides with cutties and floaters and stuff. Warm clear water, very exhilarating session. Cool well behaved lineup. I missed out on some good waves last couple weeks due to life, so this was a great relief and almost a shock to my system. Now I want more.