who here has been surfing this week?

Yesterday had some size to it. Low tide early had allot of spots dumping. Drove around checking spots and waiting for the tide to fill in some. Found an old favorite that died but may be coming back to life. Shhhh don't tell. It was showing some potential but still just looked raw. Checked one other spot after watching the old favorite for about 45 min. This spot looked perfect. Peeling A frames with a nice wall on both sides. Not too dumpy. Looked good. Only problem was the lot was closed and locked shut and there was no place else to park without having to walk over a mile. So we broke in. Eff it. These were the best waves around by far. I didn't see any other option. While suiting up i got a call from pops. My uncle passed away. We knew it was coming. It wasn't a surprise and were already mentally prepared for it. Pops didn't tell me right away though. Told me to go surf and call him when i got out. But like i said, i knew what it was about since we knew it ws coming. So i bailed and went to my family.

After a long depressing day i needed waves. Wasn't looking like much but something for this AM. Normally I'd write it off but with all the sand that moved, things are pretty shallow. Had a feeling smaller swells could be working pretty good. And i was right. Only thigh high. Real clean. And actually a bit of a wall. Only being 20 degrees out kind of sucked but it looked fun for what it was. The left's had a good first section but fattened up quick. The rights were real racey but really rippable too. Positioning was key as a good portion of the peak would close out. You had to get an extra paddle in to fight through the stiff offshores. Take a high line and pump right out the gate. Two big swooping hard pumps to keep up, then you could actually play with the lip and get a top turn in. Then repeat till the sand. Got a few like that. Was pumped with how much fun i had considering the temps and size. Shows good potential for summer. Lots of spots should be working.

I needed it. It was good to get some good ones and have some fun with everything going on out of the water.

 

Sorry to hear your uncle passed BMon. Glad you got some waves to tap into some positive energy, he would have wanted that, no?

 

Also sorry to hear it, brother - for you and your family. Losing somebody or something close is a very difficult thing.

Glad to hear you were still able to get out there and rip. Something about being in the ocean helps to give me clarity after times like that.

 

Sorry about your uncle loss.
That being said, was it your normal uncle, or the crazy one (we all have one)??

 

sorry about your loss

Also

I missed yards with trevolution yesterday, but kinda scored it today with him, head hi fun kinda crumble kinda tube nuggets in trunks sharing a left peak with only 4 guys, grey skies and aquarium clear water with sparkly uneven reef bits underneath

good seeing Trevolution in his natural habitat, hes a wooked out feral surf beast with an insatiable thirst for waves, lil feller spend 8 hours in the water yesterday

 

Sorry about your loss BMon!! If it makes ya feel any better, I didn’t get to surf this weekend. Went out yesterday to surf and fish... cold, windy, rainy and the waves at one spot were just big enough to get your interest, but not big enough to suite up. Hung out for a bit, but still no go. Sunday morn I check the cam and it looks small and shittee, so I do house stuff. Check cams later and looks kinda fun, but now I’ve agreed to go to dinner with friends. Ugh

 

Sunday afternoon Delmarva...wind, sandbars and swell all came together for a magic sesh.. The forecast was for like 3 feet @ 7 seconds with a mid afternoon high tide. Was expecting knee to waist and weak....brought the wrong board...was chest high and perfect. Good kinda problem. Shots from around around 4 p.m. after 2+ hours of goofy foot paradise:

 

Bass: Ditto Kman and Surfdog. Stay strong and keep surfin'.
Paddling out helped when my Dad passed two years ago

 

Enjoyed the pics as always, Mitch. Thanks for the stoke.

 

Yup, it figures OC would start firing AFTER I make other plans... UGH

Great pics Mitch!!

 

Nice hack in #4....

 

yea...must be the front foot traction pad...

 

haha nice!!

 

This weekend was a nice surprise. The forecast looked like knee to waist high chop. I checked the surfcams Saturday morning and saw some fun looking A frames... Packed up and hit the road for New Jersey. The surf was way better than forecasted. The quality of the surf seemed to be spot dependent because the tide was high and the winds were not perfectly offshore. If you sought out a shallow sandbar that faced south there were some fun chest high waves to be had. My best wave was a long grab rail left that with a small cover-up. Also hit a few cutbacks and hacks. I didn't think I'd be surfing over the weekend but ended up having a good session.

 

This morning I caught a handful of waist high sliders on the LB. It was glassy and clean with good form, just a bit inconsistent, but the sets came every now and then and were worth paddling out for.

 

Exceptional wave and photographs Mitchell!!

 

brought two shortys on the way down to c fl but one was never ridden. bit of wind at Sunglow in Daytona Saturday. few waist to rare chests, a tad drifty. really had to pump to catch most of the action. pretty dumpy n a lotta texture but it was worth it while the sun was out, rocking the 3/2 the whole time. Monday cleaned up real nice, chest to head hi at Flagler. Real quick, chunky - pig doggin kinda day. took a while to get in the mode after a hangover filled day, but was what i needed to wash it all away. Stopped at the Poles in Jax, wind picked up a bit. still enough to size (rare head hi) to carry down from the peaks. Fun ride back & solid wknd for sure, thank you Florida

 

A few hours of longborting yesterday. Nothing special, way too cold (both water and air) and I was coming down with some kind of cold before that, but it was still pretty fun. It was good to get out. First time surfing at home in Jersey in a couple months. I can’t even remember the last time.

 

I got out for a 2nd time yesterday after work on an outgoing high - mid tide, swell had come up to a solid chest high, maybe a couple a little bigger as the tide started to drop. Wind was light onshore, making it slightly bumpy but not too bad.

On my way to beach it looked like it was going to storm so I wasn't sure if I was going to surf or not but I kept on driving to my regular spot. It wasn't raining when I got there but there were storm clouds all around. I rode the Fish and had some fun for about 90 minutes or so.

The rain held off and the sunset was spectacular, the sun was huge, it was bright orange / red and it lit up the storm cloud filled sky like mood lighting as it dimmed into the darkness below the horizon.

This morning I paddled out on the LB since the swell is fading but there was still some waist - chest high crumblers coming in on an outgoing high tide. Wind was light - moderate SE / SSE making it it bumpy, lumpy, and wonky but overall not terrible. I got a few good ones before work, not as good as last evening, but it beats not surfing.

 

Surfed blacks with 30 other guys.
Linked up with a water photographer on the first set wave I got.

Dropped in on twice, other than that good sesh. One real nice 5’ closeout that gave me a goode view.

Good PTO day.