who here has been surfing this week?

Really fun waves in Rhodie today, waist to chest to head on the sets, smakin lips all day

 

I think I got the last pulse of groundswell down here on Wednesday. Waist to stomach high clean north swell. Long rides on the long board. North side of the pier. Got tangled up in some fishing line doing a cutback trying to avoid the fine for shotting the pier. Long rides, smooth turns, a couple pretty girls out, and a mellow crew made for good vibes.

Saturday and Sunday was knee to waist high chop, with a drift. Lots of work for very short rides, but knowing this is the end till September down here, I stayed out for a while and got sunburnt and sore. Then hit the pool bar for live music and libations. It's all over but the crying.

Swam pool laps today. Summer camp in session. Warm as piss water ( I wonder why). Ever played Marco Polo? These junior criminals were playing "MICHAEL....JORDAN!". I can't make this shi$ up. Never again. I would rather get eaten by sharks. Ocean swim tomorrow.

 

Yeah it kinda felt like the last hurrah for Spring didn't it? But man was it fun up where I was. I'm still buzzing a little bit from that sesh.

 

I heard tales. I heard it was sweet and clean and had some juice up your way. Good on ya mate! First tropo that goes by, I'm headed up to Brevard. Hopefully before the end of June...we are due for one good late June swell.

 

Man, awesome. Best surfing in years for me. I been out of the game for a while. Just caught some fast rights at Fort Walton Pier, a little mushy and sharky, but it's awesome anyhow. I feel sorry for people who don't surf.

 

Seriously might of been the best surfing I've ever done, it was so perfect and I was locked in. Definitely have hope for a late June swell, pray to the wave gods!

 

some fun little windswell bumps tonight on Delmarva.

 

busted out the longboard for the first time in forever and caught some fun peeling thigh to waist high waves in vee bee. Been a long time since I've just set a line and tried to hang five/ten

 

Delmarva got a nice shot of wind swell today....reminded me of a winter windswell only the water was above 70! Pic taken before paddling out for almost a four hour sesh. Matt Marine on a nice right:





A-Frame

 

Nice shots!

 

mitch, again, with the goods. Don't know how you can stand taking pics when it's going off...I'm always scrambling to get my wetty on and, by the time I get back to the car, the waves are usually blown to hell.

 

Nice pics Mitchell.

AI without the OC crowds. Good stuff.

 

It was just goin off! yesterday. Wish I had a speck of energy to surf today, its still chest high and off shore but Im spent. Back to work!!!

 

Thanks man. Well...i spent 15 minutes shooting a few pics then surfed 3-4 hours so I got my fill yesterday. It is really tough watching it fire knowing the wind could shift at any time.

Two reasons i like to shoot a few minutes before or after a sesh:

First of, i know people like seeing shots of themselves getting some good ones...I know most of the people I'm shooting so i like being able to hook them up with a nice shot every now and then.

Also, the way i look at it, one day we will only have memories of surfing. Shooting these pictures is literally the only way i know of to capture them (hopefull) forever. When i look back at shots i took 15 years ago, I'm 99% sure i wouldn't even remember the session without the photo. With the photo it all comes back with a lot of detail. Thats what amazes me about photography...it captures and preserves something that is otherwise gone.

 

"First of, i know people like seeing shots of themselves getting some good ones...I know most of the people I'm shooting so i like being able to hook them up with a nice shot every now and then"

Class Act Dude. Most people are too selfish to think like this!

That guy will be stoked having that two shot sequence.

 

YO !!!

I surfed yesterday !! I surfed yesterday. Yes, me !!

Ahhh, yesterday was surprising as it had some juice and a bit o' size at my place. Got totally screwed today. Was going to call out but was responsible. Turns out my partner didn't come in. Mothertrucker. I was planning on jetting at lunch. But now I can't.

Kids, never be responsible. Always go with the surf.

 

Was stoked I had a couple hour window this mourning hoped to catch a little waist high surf. Get a couple miles from the beach and traffic is at a dead standstill. Turn on radio and find out there had been a gas leak and no one could get to the beach for hours. Turned around and went to work. MAJOR buzz kill!

Glad ya'll got some Mitchell.

 

Good stuff man, very cool of you.

 

Yesterday:was shoulder-OH but messy and disorganized most of the day, cloudy and windy, oh and the crowd factor was off the charts, among the worst I've ever seen it in 25 years of surfing here.
Today: stomach-shoulder clean and perfectly lined up offshore breeze with sunny skies and maybe 10 people trading off waves at the same spot that held 70+ 24 hrs prior

 

It was messy up north?

My spot, in the lovely South Jersey NW winds are offshore region, was ok.

Lot of water moving, and it was all over the place as in breaking outside, inside and in between. In other words, it wasn't hitting direct on one sand bar, which tends to annoy me these days.

Non-stop waves at times. I think I ducked 200 waves yesterday, which was good. I needed a day like that.

But it was fun. Got some screamers yesterday and was throwing hacks of spray like a Hawaiian or a Spaniard. Got a b!tchen backdoor bowl yesterday, too.

Many people at my place didn't even paddle out......Glad the novices up north can paddle out. Oh yeah youse guys' sand bars are ten feet off the shore....I forgot. North Jersey is like Delaware. Bastards......